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I cut a piece out of an old inner tube, glued it in. Experiment. Add pieces until it's tight enough. If you suspect the locking piece isn't coming out far enough, I've measured a good one. (Click on image for larger view) It measured 40.5mm (or 1.6 inches if you prefer).

Include the rear brake pedal bearing in your lubrication, well known for sticking, which at best seems to upset the ABS system, at worst to the brake binding.

My favourite front is the BT023. It handles well right until it's down to the wear bars, it's one of very few that will. Even its replacement from Bridgestone, the T32, drops off for the last thousand or so. Rear is less fussy, I usually put whatever Bridgestone my local tyre place has, the T32...

Another possibility is sticky gunk on the clutch plates. It's not a big job to strip the clutch sufficiently to clean and re-oil (most of the plates are usually pretty dry). I've stripped my '06 for soaking, my piccy guide is here, I don't think your '15 is significantly different.

I agree with some of the above, the top-box should be OEM or not there at all. I don't think the windscreen is OEM either, in my opinion it should be. For the little silhouette in my signature, I started with this (OEM touring windscreen, 50 litre top-box): (Click on image for larger view)...

I did once do this, you can see pictures of how I did it here. You can get to that buried screw with a thin screwdriver as in this pic: (Click on image for larger view) Possible, but not the right way of doing the job.

Whoops! Thank you, apologies all round. Image corrected in my post above.

(Click on image for larger view) (Edited to correct image, thank you Whooshka)

Normal behaviour. From the Owner's Manual: So not unexpected.

Purpose is simply to let you know if your oil level is too low. In my experience, it never comes on between changes, but I have heard of it showing someone when his drain plug allowed oil to leak. As for worries about oil pressure, as a follower of this and another FJR forum for many years...

Several have mentioned tyre pressure, didn't see anyone say put it to at least 39 PSI, not the 35 or 36 that Yamaha recommend. Makes a huge difference to the feel and handling.

Saying your year and model might help, also whereabouts in the loom that connector is coming from. Brown with black tracer is used in several places in the loom, for instance the Gen 2 auxiliary socket in the glovebox, the heated grip circuit, feed to the cooling fan motors, rear brake light...

I, too, occasionally read through it. As for my expressing myself, it's the emotions that allow it. Never easy, but it helped me. Have i got over her death? No. Don't think I ever will. I'm not sure I even want to, but that's getting a bit deep. I appreciate your suggestion for a smaller...

Thank you.

Not for mine, though it would probably depend on the precise manufacturing date. Should be possible to check if you know the VIN of any particular bike by asking a dealer if it needs the recall or has had it done.

I took many pics when I did mine, available here. Good luck.

Bad ECU couldn't give you 12V at the RR negative terminal. That can only be a ground discontinuity somewhere.

The "12 volts everywhere" suggests it's the ground wire from the battery that's not got continuity. Measure the voltage between battery negative and frame.

If it helps, I took loads of pics when removing fairings on my 2006. Looking through, you may be able to find a subset that will give you the access you're after. Link: https://atrophy.lock.net/pi/20090924/index.php

Don't leave it on a trickle charger unless you mean a battery tender suitable for motorcycle batteries.