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A photo of the damaged parts would be useful. I've used a soldering iron with a clean tip to "weld" the broke pieces together. Pretty easy to do - outside. I would send you some ABS filler rods gratis if you PM me your address info.

I'd be happy to make you some spacers if you send me some dimensions and pay for shipping. You can get the bolts possibly locally or from BoltDepot.com or AllensFasteners.com

Hi - as some of you know, since I retired I have cut back on some of the farkle offerings I once made. I am currently still offering highway footpeg kits that fit all years as well as clamp setups for mounting pegs to cages. Over the years, I have repaired and repainted quite a few fellow...

Removing the stops on Gen3 mirrors may work to save the aluminum stay.  I have repainted mirrors with the stops broke off.  Here's a photo of how, I believe, the factory stacking of the belleville spring washers should be installed.  My previous post was corrected: "...and a large small end...

I currently have a Gen2 mirror apart and I see that replacing the pivot stud is not really feasible.  The two attachment studs are cast into the mirror base and it would be a chore to drill them out and retap for nylon screws.  Here's another option: I believe the Gen1 & 3 mirrors use the same...

I'm going to go with a dirty or bad MAF.  I had same symptoms on a Toyota.  I sprayed some carb cleaner in the MAF (it was removed for the cleaning) and it ran fine after I reinstalled it.

FWIW, if you drill out the rivets entirely, be sure to remove the four rivet ends that will be rattling around between the inner piece and the painted lid.  😲

The reason you could not show the image is you neglected to include the .jpg extension in your link. I find the easiest way to add the link is to select the image in imgur or wherever. right click it and select the "Copy image Location" option from the drop-down. :thumbsup:

Correct.

I can weld up your old one and send it back the next day for $30 plus S&H as long as it is straight. I've done several.

Where did you hear that? I've tig welded numerous cast aluminum items w/o issue.

If the factory top case will fit on an SR357, it should fit on this thing.

The updated SR357 shown is $200 plus S&H.

Here's the modified SR357 with the 4-1/2" extension (1/8" thick) added:

I am currently modifying a Givi SR357 with an extension plate welded to the rear of the rack. It will move the trunk back 4-1/2". The end user could drill additional holes closer if he finds it too far back. I will post a photo of the finished rack.

It's probably easier to pry back the small covers holding the hinge pins in and then popping out the pins. The covers can be pushed back in place later. The hinge rivets are not too common; 5/32 dia x medium grip, aluminum body, steel mandrel. You would then need to remove the rivet bodies...

As I replied to the OP, I use either clear or black RTV. You do not want to use anything with a solvent as it may affect the nice paint.

I was actually thinking the same thing if there was a bit of a stub left sticking out. Do you have the broke off piece? Got a photo of the broke area?

I thought you wanted to know how to repair it, not replace it? It can be welded for repair as long as the rest of it is straight.

TIG was used.