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Gen II AE has the afterthought shift actuator arm going right in front of the air filter cover. That thing is such a XXX to take off and out that it is actually worth to consider taking the whole air box out for that purpose. I doesn't take that much time and saves a lot of frustration. 

I'll see if I find a moment and tools to remove and check the plugs before the service. I'll definitely need to replace that hose.

Bike has 78k now and is scheduled for the valve check next week. When doing so I already requested to get the oil loss checked. This is the first time I'm seeing the oil consumption on this bike. Up until now it was always pretty much sealed. No puddles when standing, it seems to be a result of...

That's what I'm also thinking it may be. I'd like someone to double check where it goes to and than hopefully someone smarter than me to tell me that could cause the loss of oil. BTW, if that's the case and that hose is there to recirculate the oil from the crankcase two questions arise: 1)...

I noticed that I lost about 1qt of oil over last 3500 miles. I started to look around for possible leaks. I found quite a bit of oil sprayed between engine block and air box and final drive. Looking closely I noticed the oil is most likely coming from the air box, the nipple that is supposed to...

Edit: As I was writing these you posted that you solved the issue.

Haven't put them on yet but my set of the GT arrived 2 days ago. Don't forget about the Bridgestone promo - $60 visa for a set of tires. With Rocky Mountain prices that ended up for me at $190 for a set of supposedly awesome tire delivered to my door. Less than just the rear of PR4GT.

I can't find that post now but when exploring that issue a couple years ago I found a thread where a guy made that mistake. There is some additional piece (bracket or something) related with one of the YCCS components on the subframe. It is needed for the YCCS, I cannot remember now if the YCCS...

Just keep in mind there are some minor differences between the regular ones and YCCS equipped bikes in the subframe.

No errors, just lack or reaction? Whenever there is an issue with YCC the first thing to check is the battery IMHO, especially in autumn when it starts to get colder.

I have never heard of any bike that would require any maintenance after being placed on the side. Not with FJR but with some of my previous bikes I was actually placing them on the side intentionally to teach my wife how to pick them up if she had to. I wouldn't have a doubt to do the same with...

On the demo days they were inviting and encouraging to switch the modes on the fly with only condition being that the throttle needs to be in neutral position/released in order for the switch to work.

Since my youngest days back in Poland there was always a definition of crap cars as the ones starting with "f": Fiat, Ford and french.

I was waiting and waiting for that Roadtech 01 HWM version to be in stock for several weeks, they always give a week or two ahead "available" and I see nothing changed since late April. I finally decided to go with PR4 GT before the cords on my PR3 started to be seen.

I'm new to PR4 GT but my PR3 had exactly this kind of pattern and "issue" but I didn't get to see the cords. While thread was in place it was wearing out steady but slow, as soon as I went below the wear bars it was going out like crazy. My theory, different and softer compound below not meant...

My clutch jerking came back on me. Nothing really bad but it will take some additional work to get around it. I'm actually starting to consider trying to convert to lever clutch control...

In my case bleeding only for the moment did the trick.

4 years old but still so much valid. I had a bit of jerking when cold on 2006 AE. Flushing could never be easier. The only change I made was once the fluid was all nice and clear I let another 2 "tanks" flow with gravity. When the solenoid pumps the fluid it gets jerked quite tough and some tiny...