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I forgot about that, was thinking of the Gen 1. So that complicated the diagnosis slightly, but then again, at $12, it's cheap enough to do a parts swap diagnosis.

Could also be fuel pressure regulator or injectors. If the regulator is seeping, fuel pressure may be low in the line. If the injectors are seeping fuel pressure will be low AND there will be raw fuel sitting in the intake. Are you hitting the button as soon as you turn the key? Try waiting for...

Not uncommon these days. Bots or low-paid spammers create an account, make a semi-relevant post or 3 over a few months just to establish some history before coming back to tout some clickbait in the future.

That's not bad for some conditions. Riding around with the screen up at 120-130kph will do that. If you are cruising at 80kph with the screen down then it's terrible.

Failing (delaminating) rubber brake lines can have similar effects. Air trapped in the delaminated section cannot be flushed and heat expands it, causing an increase in line pressure. Pressure will drop when the line cools, so brakes release after some time.

It sounds very much like an ignition switch issue -- but could also be as simple as a loose battery connection. Check those first.

Most Japanese waterpumps are similar in design concept and requirements, so you are probably OK. A little research on the specific product you used might be in order though. Silicates were used as a waterpump bearing lubricant and sealant in older North American vehicles, but have an abrasive...

FWIW: silicate formulations are fine on an older domestic V8, but not compatible with the FJR. Use only a silicate free antifreeze in these bikes to prolong the life of the waterpump.

The elephant in the room is "What have you been using for antifreeze?" My son has my '03, 330,000 kms or more. Been through 2 waterpump seals, never seen that kind of corrosion!

It is possible that a chunk of carbon broke off and jammed a valve partially open. it doesn't take much to lower the compression in that cylinder dramatically. It's also possible that rings can stick as a result of carbon, again, dropping compression dramatically. Did the dealer mention a...

There are also differences between Gen I arms. 2004 and later lay the screen back 5° further than the original.

It certainly sounds like it is not adding fuel when you open the throttle. If it happens again, I would immediately (after pulling over) put it in Diag mode and check the TPS values as you twist the throttle to verify smooth and consistent readings. While there, I would also verify that the...

Tip: add glycerin or corn syrup to your soapy water solution. It helps maintain the film when chasing slow leaks. I use 50mL of corn syrup and 250mL of dishsoap in 1.5L water. Or buy children's bubble solution at the dollar store. It also has a high film strength.

I can only assume I forgot to torque them when I reinstalled the wheel. I remember the day quite clearly, and will do so until the end of days -- May 20, 2022. I was prepping the bike for my brother. He could barely walk, but was determined to get one last ride in while he could still sit...

I'm assuming they are all done in one session -- eg: the tupperware has to be removed, tank, t-bar removed, etc. then reassembly of everything only once if it's all done at the same time. And I've found a few short-cuts over the years -- eg: the manual says the left fairing panel has to come off...

Recently I have had a head shaker wobble if the handlebars are released at low speeds -- no problems at highway speed, no problems with at least one hand on the bars, but an increasingly violent head shake if both hands are removed. I checked all the fork alignment and adjusted the steering head...

You are correct -- for model specific parts. The first 3 digits are the original model code that part was designed for. If the part is redesigned for a different model, but will still fit the original model, then the parts catalog for the original will be updated with the superseding part number...

In 5 hours I could do the valve shims, replace the cam chain tensioner, R&R the TB rack to replace the starter motor and do a TB sync. Sounds like a long time to clean some gunk out of a vacuum hose. "Cleaning the throttle bodies" may have happened but I also question the necessity. It's not...

The bolts are M8 x 25. The new switch comes with new security bolts. They are to be tightened until the top hex snaps off the rest of the bolt. I still have them because I replaced them with Allen head cap screws. Rather than drilling them out, I used a Dremel tool to cut a slot in the round...

When my Gen1 ignition switch died, it was burnt contacts. Both times. No amount of soldering will fix that. I retrofitted a Gen 2 switch, swapping out my cylinder so the key remained the same. The Gen 2 switch had heavier duty contacts.