05-07 Clutch Slave Cylinder swap

[motochick]

I want to swap the clutch slave cylinder on my 07 (cause of my dainty hands) however the clutch slave cylinder on my bike has 3 bolts holding it down. It doesn't make any sense to me since all the fiche I look at only shows 2 bolts. Anybody have any idea on this? Did I get a different engine?

Thanks,

Jen

 

[luvtoride]

Mchik... you might find THIS thread useful... or it also might be what you've already seen.

Anyway, you might PM the author of this thread & ask him. He's been there/done that, already.

Good luck, Heidi

 

[kaitsdad]

Jen, I did my swap out last year, the part number of the 05 slave was "5JW-16381-00" and it was a direct bolt in. No difference. I imagine that the third bolt was left off of the schematic for some reason. Or perhaps they forgot. Who knows.

To further enhance the change out, I also installed a set of Pazzo levers from Jeff at Bike Effects - Pazzo Levers

The adjustable draw on these levers makes it nice for us short fingered folks. Highly recommended!!

 

[motochick]

Jen, I did my swap out last year, the part number of the 05 slave was "5JW-16381-00" and it was a direct bolt in. No difference. I imagine that the third bolt was left off of the schematic for some reason. Or perhaps they forgot. Who knows.
To further enhance the change out, I also installed a set of Pazzo levers from Jeff at Bike Effects - Pazzo Levers

The adjustable draw on these levers makes it nice for us short fingered folks. Highly recommended!!

Yeah I figured the schematic drawer made an error because every year looked the same.

Those are really cool looking, however I'm going to have to save for Pazzo. Geez besides buying the bike, all the mods are cleaning out the bank

take care,

jen

 

[Lake Powell]

Motochik,

I've done the mod as well and I can tell you it makes a significant improvement.

It is real important that the system is bled very well, any air trapped in the system will negate the improvement with a longer pull required on the clutch lever.

I also saw an improvemnt with the installation of a Glafer Stainless steel braided clutch line.

Best wishes-

 

[FJR1300Mark]

I did this and it was a direct swap out. Just drain the system, swap it out, and then put the fluid back in. I spent more time thinking about it than doing it.

End result is fine, but I don't know if I really notice too much of a difference.

 

[CHRIS_D]

I did this and it was a direct swap out. Just drain the system, swap it out, and then put the fluid back in. I spent more time thinking about it than doing it.End result is fine, but I don't know if I really notice too much of a difference.

I too did the swap and really didn't feel much of a difference.

Is the Pazzo what I need to make the real difference in leverage? Does it also move the friction zone a bit farther away from the grip? My friction zone is only about 1/4 away from the handgrip. These levers are expensive, but it would be worth it if it acheives an easier pull and moves the friction zone out.

I also think this may be why I occasionly get a rough up-shift because I'm not squezzing the clutch in all way before shifting. Has anyone thought of a way to modified the slave cyxlinder to move the friction zone out away from the handgrip?

 

[FJR919]

I was interested in swapping the slave cylinder out not to reduce the effort rquired but to get the engagement point further out from the bar. Posters in the linked thread have mentioned the swap didn't accomplish this. I have an '05 FJR and an '08 and I like the engagement point on the '05 much better. The master cylinder is the same part #. Is the pushrod that the slave cylinder pushes on a different length? Was something else changed in the clutch that we're missing? Has anyone gotten a Gen II clutch to engage further out from the bar?

 

[CHRIS_D]

I was interested in swapping the slave cylinder out not to reduce the effort rquired but to get the engagement point further out from the bar. Posters in the linked thread have mentioned the swap didn't accomplish this. I have an '05 FJR and an '08 and I like the engagement point on the '05 much better. The master cylinder is the same part #. Is the pushrod that the slave cylinder pushes on a different length? Was something else changed in the clutch that we're missing? Has anyone gotten a Gen II clutch to engage further out from the bar?

YES I DID :yahoo: :yahoo: All you need to do on a GEN 2 model is take your clutch handle off. You will see the push bar that goes into the clutch reservoir. All I did is add 8 flat washers over this push bar and re-assemble. This brought the start of friction zone out another 1/2". Before doing this the friction zone was only about 1/4" away from the handgrip, now it's about 3/4"

 

[motochick]

YES I DID :yahoo: :yahoo: All you need to do on a GEN 2 model is take your clutch handle off. You will see the push bar that goes into the clutch reservoir. All I did is add 8 flat washers over this push bar and re-assemble. This brought the start of friction zone out another 1/2". Before doing this the friction zone was only about 1/4" away from the handgrip, now it's about 3/4"

Amazing the ingenuity found amongst these riders :assassin:

I may try that in addition to the new slave cylinder because I have a dainty hand and need less lever pressure.

-jen

 

[FJR919]

I was interested in swapping the slave cylinder out not to reduce the effort rquired but to get the engagement point further out from the bar. Posters in the linked thread have mentioned the swap didn't accomplish this. I have an '05 FJR and an '08 and I like the engagement point on the '05 much better. The master cylinder is the same part #. Is the pushrod that the slave cylinder pushes on a different length? Was something else changed in the clutch that we're missing? Has anyone gotten a Gen II clutch to engage further out from the bar?

YES I DID :yahoo: :yahoo: All you need to do on a GEN 2 model is take your clutch handle off. You will see the push bar that goes into the clutch reservoir. All I did is add 8 flat washers over this push bar and re-assemble. This brought the start of friction zone out another 1/2". Before doing this the friction zone was only about 1/4" away from the handgrip, now it's about 3/4"

Excellent idea Chris! I'll add this to the winter farkle/modification list. Thanks, Chris.

 

[Nikk]

Sorry Motochick, this is getting off topic.

YES I DID :yahoo: :yahoo: All you need to do on a GEN 2 model is take your clutch handle off. You will see the push bar that goes into the clutch reservoir. All I did is add 8 flat washers over this push bar and re-assemble. This brought the start of friction zone out another 1/2". Before doing this the friction zone was only about 1/4" away from the handgrip, now it's about 3/4"

Exactly what I'm looking for! So you added washers to #3 below, on the level end I guess, closest to item #4?

 

[CHRIS_D]

Nikk,

That's right I added the washers to end of part #3. It was real simple and only took a few minutes.

 

[RATyrant]

I did the slave cyl swap and it did indeed reduce lever effort, but increased throw. I have to run the adjustment all the way out to get enough lever motion to fully dis-engage the clutch. If you have short fingers this is a problem. I will have to try the washer trick. I have also been thinking about a stainless hose so less motion is lost to hose flex.

 

[HaulinAshe]

It appears you are preloading the master cylinder, i.e. not allowing it return to the fully "relaxed" position.

This could easily become a problem if overdone by the slightest amount. It could restrict/prohibit the full release of the slave cylinder and induce clutch slippage.

I would recommend carefully examining the piston position through the master cylinder reservoir and carefully monitoring the clutch release, to make sure that it fully releases as intended.

Undoubtedly, there is some overkill or over-travel in the piston. But it was put there to allow for tolerances in levers and the associated stop(s). Just be careful not to take out more than your specific bike setup has. And watch for foreign matter that might occupy some of that space you took up with the washers.

The same thing could be accomplished by adding material or shims to the lever's "pad" or stop. Also there the tolerances for changes would be less critical, although the modification would probably be more time consuming to make.

 

[CHRIS_D]

[SIZE=10pt]8 washers ended up being way to many. :angry2: When it warmed up yesterday afternoon on my ride home the clutch wouldn't fully engage (or slip) when the clutch handle was released.. I'm now down to 4 washers and it seems to be working fine (I may add one more), but now the start of the friction zone is much closer to the hand grip then before. I recommend experimenting with your bike and please make sure you have a 10 MM wrench and flat head screwdriver with you just in case it's not right. These tools should be in your stock tool bag.[/SIZE]

I'm STILL kicking around buying the Pazzo handles. The look is great but at that price I need it to function as well. Can anyone comment on them possibly providing better leverage with less throw. I never considered my self to have short fingers, :dribble: but boy it seems this clutch lever has a long throw. Any advice would be surly appreciated.

 

[CHRIS_D]

It appears you are preloading the master cylinder, i.e. not allowing it return to the fully "relaxed" position.
This could easily become a problem if overdone by the slightest amount. It could restrict/prohibit the full release of the slave cylinder and induce clutch slippage.

I would recommend carefully examining the piston position through the master cylinder reservoir and carefully monitoring the clutch release, to make sure that it fully releases as intended.

Undoubtedly, there is some overkill or over-travel in the piston. But it was put there to allow for tolerances in levers and the associated stop(s). Just be careful not to take out more than your specific bike setup has. And watch for foreign matter that might occupy some of that space you took up with the washers.

The same thing could be accomplished by adding material or shims to the lever's "pad" or stop. Also there the tolerances for changes would be less critical, although the modification would probably be more time consuming to make.

You're exactly correct as I found out yesterday. And you just managed to post this before me,darn it. Once the temps heated up a bit the tolerance changed causing a difference in throw which caused the clutch to slip.

 

[HaulinAshe]

You're exactly correct as I found out yesterday. And you just managed to post this before me,darn it. Once the temps heated up a bit the tolerance changed causing a difference in throw which caused the clutch to slip.

Except I got the whole "release/engage" thing backward! Wax-On, Wax-Off... Oh Sh!t Danielson, just go wax the damn car!

Sometimes I do hate being right, especially in a case like this. Glad you caught it and even more glad you are sharing that experience.

I personally use large football-shaped Sport-Touring grips. Combine that with my '05 slave on the '07 bike, and you get a clutch setup with a friction zone extremely close to the grip. I have to run my lever setting at Position-4 or lower. At Position-5 it will not fully release. (Did I get it right that time???)

 

[Wolfhound]

Pazzo levers didn't change my engagement point . . . .still way to close to the grip . . . .