'13 high Frequency Vibration

[McRide]

Hey, asking for help.... compared to my '04, the '13 has very noticeable high frequency vibration, thru the seat , thru the handgrips and into my head... vision is scattered, not at all clear. This is only on some freeways, but not others. I know... it's the road surface stupid... but I'm not sure of that. From others experience, is there an expected high frequency vibration in Gen III compared to Gen I? If not, is it a tire balance issue?

 

[philter]

Perhaps try dropping the spring preload and compression damping quite a bit, say to the 4th or 5th ring on the spring preload, and 12-15 clicks out on the compression damping you could reduce the amount of vibration transferred to the bars?? I am guessing here, but if by doing this the handlebar vibration decreases on certain roads, you would at least know it's the road. Ray will be along to correct me soon. LOL

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611201/Yamaha-Fjr1300.html?page=30

The above link is just in case you, or someone else who reads this post later, aren't completely familiar with the front fork suspension settings.

 

[C&C]

What do your tires look like; cupping, scalloped, old and hard?

 

[08FJR4ME]

shitty tires, +1

I ran PR2's for years and recently switched to another brand. No I get a head shake if I let go of the handlebars. Never had that before. The only change was the tires. Tires play a big role IMO.

Dave

 

[RossKean]

There shouldn't be a difference from Gen 2 to Gen 3. Try to eliminate road surface by finding a smooth stretch to do some testing. If tires and suspension settings don't help, I would suggest that you loosen the motor mount bolts and re-torque using the FSM recommended procedure and values.

Is the vibration proportional to the bike's speed or engine RPM? i.e. Is it very noticeably different running at 40 mph in 3rd vs 4th gear? Does it go away if you let off the throttle and pull in the clutch? - this will give you a good indication whether it is road/tires/suspension vs engine vibration. Make sure that your exhaust connections are secure where the mufflers attach. Possibly header bolts as well.

I sometimes feel that my new-to-me 2011 is a little buzzier than my 2007 used to be but this may be entirely my imagination. Not so much that I have felt compelled to do anything about it. Mine is proportional to engine RPM.

 

[Redfish Hunter]

I agree with RossKean on all points.

I will say that my '15 seems to have a high frequency vibration that I don't remember in Pop's '07. Mine is related to engine RPM and I notice it starts at around 75mph.

 

[RossKean]

I forgot to mention - if it is related to engine speed, doing a throttle body synchronization might help.

 

[jammess]

Would also be nice if you could sync the throttle bodies above idle like you can on a gen2 but not on the gen3. A smooth idle doesn't do much good when you're going down the road.

 

[McRide]

Perhaps try dropping the spring preload and compression damping quite a bit, say to the 4th or 5th ring on the spring preload, and 12-15 clicks out on the compression damping you could reduce the amount of vibration transferred to the bars?? I am guessing here, but if by doing this the handlebar vibration decreases on certain roads, you would at least know it's the road. Ray will be along to correct me soon. LOL
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611201/Yamaha-Fjr1300.html?page=30

The above link is just in case you, or someone else who reads this post later, aren't completely familiar with the front fork suspension settings.

10-4, on the list along with anything engine mount related, thanks

 

[McRide]

What do your tires look like; cupping, scalloped, old and hard?

Bike came with new Shinko Ravens, however the front wheel axle and pinch bolts were all very loose, (even backed out) so I've re-torqued all that as well as rear wheel. I have typically run PR3 and Conti Max and never had a tire related problem. Maybe I'll just slap those on to eliminate anything tire related, thanks

I forgot to mention - if it is related to engine speed, doing a throttle body synchronization might help.

Will do, thanks

I agree with RossKean on all points.
I will say that my '15 seems to have a high frequency vibration that I don't remember in Pop's '07. Mine is related to engine RPM and I notice it starts at around 75mph.

Thanks..... and the mufflers are sweet! Good Karma to you my friend!

 

[McRide]

There shouldn't be a difference from Gen 2 to Gen 3. Try to eliminate road surface by finding a smooth stretch to do some testing. If tires and suspension settings don't help, I would suggest that you loosen the motor mount bolts and re-torque using the FSM recommended procedure and values.
Is the vibration proportional to the bike's speed or engine RPM? i.e. Is it very noticeably different running at 40 mph in 3rd vs 4th gear? Does it go away if you let off the throttle and pull in the clutch? - this will give you a good indication whether it is road/tires/suspension vs engine vibration. Make sure that your exhaust connections are secure where the mufflers attach. Possibly header bolts as well.

I sometimes feel that my new-to-me 2011 is a little buzzier than my 2007 used to be but this may be entirely my imagination. Not so much that I have felt compelled to do anything about it. Mine is proportional to engine RPM.

A thorough response, thanks. I'm heading out to check off all of the above. The Bike used to live at 3,800 ft and is now at sea level. I'll also jump on the TBS.

 

[bigjohnsd]

When I installed Engine Guards on my '13 I had some vibration until I went back through and loosened and re-torqued the engine mounts.

Vibration then went away.

YMMV

 

[McRide]

At +85mph there is sustained, even vibration all the way into my teeth, yuk... clutch in... zero. Thanks RossKean, so simple. It's likely all coming from engine mounts, drivetrain or a TBS. BigJohn, I will loosen and re-torque as suggested. I have come across a few finger tight bolts since taking ownership. I suspect it's the same with the Guards. There is no way I can handle a 1,500 mile round trip from San Diego to Redding next week under these conditions.

 

[roger dodger]

My '03 was smooooth as silk ... and light and quick.

My '13 is much more complicated .... porkier but still smooth all the way up to redline. (keep in mind I came from a buzzy Concours) .

Since you found loose axle bolts, and this vibration persists, I would park that 'bad boy' and re-do all the maintenance they 'could have done'. IOW check the oil change, wheels, brakes, and all FARKLES to be sure they are on right.

Then ... once this is smoooth again, consider Ivan's Flash to eliminate that pesky CC limit, and smooth it out while shifting ... some more.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Compared to my previous [dead smooth] '09, my '15 is much more buzzy and seemingly sensitive to changes.

After buying the low-mile '15, I parked both bikes side-by-side and began a wholesale farkle swap. Everything that would transfer over, went. Long story short, with that exercise, the '15 turned into a buzzy POS. I ruined it. After undoing everything I did, the major contributor was traced to [believe it or not] the HVMP bar ends. My '15 does-not-like the extra weight hanging on the bars. The bike is fairly smooth and tolerable now but still no where close to the smooth '09.

So McRide, take a close look at what's on the bike. Good advice from everyone, start with the simple stuff like engine mount sequence and torque and go from there. Process of elimination and you'll find the culprit causing the problem.

~G