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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
2009 FJR1300 AE R/R to Battery 10 Gauge Wire Harness Installation
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<blockquote data-quote="StarLord" data-source="post: 1186101" data-attributes="member: 87291"><p>Thanks for the suggestions sme and Chuck35. sme, the thermal sleeving looks outstanding!</p><p></p><p>Chuck35, your suggestion has benefits and possible risks. The benefit is that the factory leads from the R/R to the battery are already in place, so cutting off the large plastic connector and using the wires to power a fuseblock (or positive and negative power distribution blocks) makes perfect sense.</p><p></p><p>The risk is that the reason we are running separate, larger gauge wires from the R/R to the battery is because there is a problem (which we cannot isolate) with the factory wires. In my case there is a voltage drop of 1 volt in those wires (14.2 V at the R/R, 13.2 V at the battery). In other posts, ionbeam has pointed out that the voltage drop is proportional to both the resistance and current in the circuit. Brodie and ionbeam have pointed out that resistance can be caused by defective wiring and/or corroded connectors. Brodie, in his ground spyder writings, has mentioned that if resistance increases significantly, you run the risk of thermal meltdown. Brodie found original factory wiring that was discolored and degraded. Others have mentioned water wicking into the wires and causing corrosion.</p><p></p><p>I would suggest that if a person wanted to use the original wires to power a fuse block, the minimum test would be to turn all connected farkles on and check the voltage between power and ground at the fuse block. IMO, if this is significantly less than the voltage across the battery, it would be better to run another set of wires from the battery to power the fuzeblock.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="StarLord, post: 1186101, member: 87291"] Thanks for the suggestions sme and Chuck35. sme, the thermal sleeving looks outstanding! Chuck35, your suggestion has benefits and possible risks. The benefit is that the factory leads from the R/R to the battery are already in place, so cutting off the large plastic connector and using the wires to power a fuseblock (or positive and negative power distribution blocks) makes perfect sense. The risk is that the reason we are running separate, larger gauge wires from the R/R to the battery is because there is a problem (which we cannot isolate) with the factory wires. In my case there is a voltage drop of 1 volt in those wires (14.2 V at the R/R, 13.2 V at the battery). In other posts, ionbeam has pointed out that the voltage drop is proportional to both the resistance and current in the circuit. Brodie and ionbeam have pointed out that resistance can be caused by defective wiring and/or corroded connectors. Brodie, in his ground spyder writings, has mentioned that if resistance increases significantly, you run the risk of thermal meltdown. Brodie found original factory wiring that was discolored and degraded. Others have mentioned water wicking into the wires and causing corrosion. I would suggest that if a person wanted to use the original wires to power a fuse block, the minimum test would be to turn all connected farkles on and check the voltage between power and ground at the fuse block. IMO, if this is significantly less than the voltage across the battery, it would be better to run another set of wires from the battery to power the fuzeblock. [/QUOTE]
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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
2009 FJR1300 AE R/R to Battery 10 Gauge Wire Harness Installation
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