Welcome!! (From New Brunswick, Canada) Where are you located?Just purchased a used 2010. So far so good, except the clutch might need attention due to not so precise shifts.
Welcome!! (From New Brunswick, Canada) Where are you located?
So, what's going on with the clutch? If the bike was newer , I might suggest that a clutch oil soak might be beneficial. Still might not be a bad idea. Other than getting insufficient lubrication, clutch problems are very rare on FJRs Instructions on the forum, if you need them. Fiber disks are removed and cleaned (if necessary) and soaked in motor oil overnight. Steel disks are scrubbed using oil and a Scotchbrite pad if there are visible deposits. How many miles on it ? Clutch soak is rarely required more than once and usually within the first 10,000 miles or less.
Before soaking the clutch, however, I would remove, clean and lubricate the shifter linkage. Also, remove the clutch lever and clean/lube the brass bushing that depresses the clutch plunger (with waterproof grease). This bushing needs service every year and if not maintained, it will wear and need to be replaced. Clean/lube the clutch lever pivot too.
This is a good thread for you to read. It includes a link to the clutch soak as well as some photos of a (badly) worn brass bushing.
I have been searching the forums for this, but have not been able to find an answer. I have a '07 FJR. Ever since I've had it (bought it used) the clutch engagement is not right and I'm not sure how to fix it. As soon as the lever comes off the grip, the bike starts moving immediately. It's...www.fjrforum.com
As I said, make sure you clean/lube the shifter pivots. While you're at it, do the rear brake pivot too. Needs to come apart to clean. Lube with waterproof grease. Sticking rear brake is common enough that many of us do that annually - more often if ridden in a lot of rain.
If it hasn't been done, flush/bleed the clutch. Also flush/bleed front brakes - left caliper and the topmost bleeder on the right caliper using the hand brake lever The bottom bleeder on the front brake (lower piston pair) is bled using the rear brake pedal and rear fluid reservoir as it is part of the linked brake system. Do the lower right front and then the rear brake caliper. DOT4 fluid for clutch and brake hydraulics.
Other than replacing fluid, I did nothing to the master (or slave) units on clutch (or brakes) for either my 2007 (sold at 295,000 km) or my current 2011, currently at 160,000 km. I did NOTHING to ANY part of the clutch on either bike (besides changing fluid every couple of years and general clean/lube pivots and bushing). Pads are the only parts I ever replaced on brakes.I don't believe the clutch lever master cylinder has ever been serviced
Easy adjustment and it seems sloppy if there is too much slack. Don't get it too tight or you may have problems with it not snapping back to idle when it is released or it may bind when bars are turned.I also need to adjust the slack in the throttle. There's too much play from completely closed to the point of engagement. I've gotten use to it, but I think it would drive better if adjusted to a closer tolerance.
I really don't want to open up the "right oil" can of worms but isn't Rotella a diesel oil? I wonder if your wet clutch might benefit from an oil specifically designed for wet clutches, Personally I use Motul 7100, overkill maybe, but the price difference isn't that much.Ross,
Thanks for that very positive information. I have a feeling the shifting problem may be operator induced. I need to work on doing a proper shift if I can figure out what that is relative to the function of this particular bike. On a different note, I was analyzing the previous owners maintenance log. I noticed that he was getting extreme longevity out of his Michelin Pilot Road 4 GT's. See the attached screenshot.
Price difference is more than a factor of two (or even three) times when you get it on sale - especially if you buy the 5 gallon (18.9L) pail. (Comparing price of Rotella T6 synthetic to Mobil1 or similar offerings from Castrol, Amsoil, Motul, Lucas, Royal Purple, Liqui-Moly etc.)I really don't want to open up the "right oil" can of worms but isn't Rotella a diesel oil? I wonder if your wet clutch might benefit from an oil specifically designed for wet clutches, Personally I use Motul 7100, overkill maybe, but the price difference isn't that much.
I think that depends a LOT on where you ride. I check mine every year and blow out loose dust but I probably haven't actually changed it in 40,000 miles or more. Very little dust, pollen or other particulates where I ride. If it looks OK and most of the visible dust is on one end, then it is very likely OK - resistance to air flow is slight. If the dust is evenly distributed end-to-end, it is more likely that you have some partial blockage and increased resistance. Always a good idea to check, especially if your region has a significant rodent population. Air filter seems to be a favorite nesting spot for mice and squirrels.That is a well-maintained machine. A couple of suggestions (just my opinion; YMMV) that air filter should be changed out. That's a lot of miles on one filter. I usually inspect and "clean" the filter every 10K mi and replace it at 20K mi.
I can confirm that Motul 7100 synthetic oil is excellent. I've used it since the 1st oil change on my commuter motorcycle. She's now 13 years old and has about 122,000 miles on the clock. The clutch was replaced at about 98,000 miles of city riding (i.e. lots of "clutching" and slipping the clutch in traffic/parking etc.). I'm told that this mileage is about 20,000 miles more than can be expected for city riding.I really don't want to open up the "right oil" can of worms but isn't Rotella a diesel oil? I wonder if your wet clutch might benefit from an oil specifically designed for wet clutches, Personally I use Motul 7100, overkill maybe, but the price difference isn't that much.