2010 Gen II turns over but won't fire

[pebryant]

Hi all,

Apologies if this has been covered before ... I have done some searching but cannot find anything matching my issue.

Did a decent ride a few weeks ago.  Came home, put the bike away.  Following weekend, washed it (cold).  Now won't start.  Turns over OK but will not fire.

It is a 2010 Gen II FJR1300 with an immobiliser circuit (I'm in Aus).

1. Bike has given no indication of any issue to this point.  No troubles starting, no back-firing, no misfiring.
2. Bike was fine on the last ride before I washed it.
3. I have tried the spare black key and also the red key - same result.
4. There are no error codes showing on the display.
5. I have gone into Diag mode and look at modes 60/61/62 and there are no error codes being displayed. 

It just won't start.

I have taken a short video of attempting to start it, which I have saved to my OneDrive.  I couldn't work out how to embed it into the post.  You can see it here.

I would be very grateful for any information which might point me in the right direction as to what to look for !

Regards,
Pete.

 

[BigOgre]

I'm having visions of Family Feud where maybe I'm guessing the number one answer.

Fast Starter Syndrome?

Quick question: When you washed it the following weekend did you start it up at all?

 

[pebryant]

Hi BigOgre,

Normally I do just to dry everything off but this weekend I didn't ... it's the only thing I did differently

 

[road runner]

Kinda seems like the injectors aren't working. If the contacts in the ignition switch get dirty it will do that, although it would be showing a code 19. If I remember correctly.

 

[road runner]

I can't see it in video, but looks like may be a code while cranking. Look at the number that shows next to yellow caution light while you crank. If that is 19, then it is most likely dirty contacts in ignition switch. 

Try to turn the key on and off several times, attempting to clean the contacts. This may get it to start. If it does you will have to either clean or replace the ignition switch. 

 

[pebryant]

Gents,

Thanks for the replies and thanks also for the link to the fast starter syndrome post ... had a good read through that.

I just went out and tried the start again looking for the number next to the orange engine light on starting (that you can see in the video).

It's not a number, it's actually a little engine block image.

However one thing I did try (from reading the fast starter syndrome post) was priming the fuel pump a couple of times before hitting the starter (key on, let it prime, key off, key on, let it prime) and then held the starter in before turning the key on.

This actually sounded different ... as though it might try to start.  But now the battery is having a cow after all this cold cranking so I suspect I'm going to have to charge it first, then try this again.  I'll have to go and thoroughly re-read the fast starter syndrome post as well.

I'll let you know how this turns out, but happy to take any other suggestions in the meantime !

Thanks so much,
Regards,
Pete.

 

[road runner]

Something else that you may want to check is "stored codes" . You may have that 19 code in there. If you clear stored codes then try again and go back into stored codes you will see the new codes. 

 

[BigOgre]

It's been awhile since I read that whole FSS thread but if memory serves the common thought now is to keep trying WOT or somewhere short of that for three to five second bursts, thus giving the starter a chance to cool.  Think old-school flooding.  Keeping a battery tender attached during it all helps somewhat.  Good luck and looking forward to hearing about good results.

 

[HotRodZilla]

98% of the time it is flooded. Let your battery charge and then hit the starter with your throttle wide open, "WOT."

I'm betting it will cough a second and then fire. Mine tried that shit last weekend. I recognized it, did the WOT on the second button push and voila, it started in less than 2 seconds. 

Try that before you start looking for codes and taking stuff apart. 

 

[MartyA]

Yeah, I'd go with flooded, especially if you have primed it many times without it starting successfully. Just hold the throttle wide open and crank a few seconds. Should cough, sputter, then catch.

Of course nothing will work if you are out of fuel. 

I did have the gas tank vent crimped one time and the bike stopped running about 1/4 full. When I opened the cap there was a whoosh of air, the tank expanded, and the bike ran again.  But I bet nobody except me ever did something that silly before.

 

[pebryant]

Hi all,

Just wanted to give you all a very big round of thanks because after juicing the battery up a bit, I gave it about 5 rounds of 3 to 4 second cranking WOT and away she went ... lots of fumes and a bit of a rough idle till she settled down ... but you were all spot on the money !

So I've let her run, get nice and warm and have stopped and started and idled for a few minutes each time and it looks like we're back in business !

The crappy day I had at work today is now a distant memory  so here's hoping that this weekend, the weather gods are smiling as well !!

Many thanks once again ... very much appreciated !

Regards,
Pete.

 

[road runner]

Glad you got it and was nothing serious. 

 

[MartyA]

G'day mate! Now remember, W-O-T!  More fun that way!

 

[dcarver]

Awesome. Love them 'happy endings'...

 

[wfooshee]

Gen IIs were known for flooding if started and not allowed to warm up. Like if you started it and moved it for the wash.

 

[RaceDr]

I just had a very similar situation with my 2005 w/146K on the clock. Replaced the crank trigger sensor as the old one finally died. It would intermittently not start at first but then would start. Finally no go. You can place a meter on the leads and see extremely high ohms resistance. Tap it with a light hammer and see the resistance change.

Used part from a 2004 with 4212 miles did the trick. 

I hope it's fixed for good.

 

[ice_station_zebra]

Thanks for documenting this. For the first time in 12 years I couldn't start her up as normal. She's been sitting for four months in a heated garage with stabil and a full tank of ethanol free gas. Yuasa battery less than 12 months old. Couldn't figure it out. Fuel pump was priming. Opened up the air breather to see if a mouse house was in there, and nothing. Covered up the air intake briefly to enrich the mixture(?) and that did nothing. Checked the kill switch and looked for error codes. Nothing. Finally consulted the forum and found this thread. ...Battery fully charged, leave on the tender, switch on and off 3 times. Switch on again, wide open throttle and bob's your uncle, she roared to life. This was the first winter I stabilzed with stabil. I ususally use seafoam. I think on my second tank of gas I'll run through a dose of seafoam thinking maybe the injectors need some attention and go back to seafoam next winter. Now I can look forward to going out for a ride tomorrow!

 

[timk]

I had the same problem with my 05. It was the throttle pos sensor. Got it fired. Dealer changed the TPS. Good ever since.

 

[RossKean]

I had the same problem with my 05. It was the throttle pos sensor. Got it fired. Dealer changed the TPS. Good ever since.

TPS issue is rare with Gen II.  Almost always a flooded condition that is remedied by WOT starting.  May take a couple of tries.  Just give the starter motor a few minutes to cool down between attempts and I wouldn't crank for longer than 20-30 seconds per try.  If cranking slows down, you may need to take a break and recharge or use a jump starter.