AE headlight bulb replacement?

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Two reasons actually. One, because they have had the exact same amount of filament erosion over time, so are both near the point of extinction. But the second is that they share a power feed from the wiring harness. When the one burns out, the current draw on that feed drops to half, allowing the the voltage drop on outside circuit connections to drop, which means there will be more voltage applied to the sole remaining filament, and the current through that sole survivor will actually ratchet up a tad. It's already tired, remember, from it's previous life, so zing... the second one goes not too long after.

That is why ionbeam's suggestion of intentionally staggering replacements is such a good idea.

 
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So I guess my idea of unplugging one headight to help power my heated gear is a bad idea?
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Haven't done it yet but I was thinking about it. I'm a recovering blackbird owner and those bikes had re-occuring charging system problems.

 
I talked to my regular mechanic. It'll cost me $60-90 labor plus the cost of the bulbs for him to do it. I think I'm going to take him up on that.

He will need to know if I want OEM or PIAA replacements. I'll scan NEPRTs for that information.

 
Thanks guys, but I'm asking specifically about the AE.
The AE is different wrt to headlights because there is a computer box of some kind right behind the bulbs. That's why the ordinary FJR user manual describes how the user can replace the headlights, while the Advanced Edition says to take it to the dealer.
I have an 06AE and put a Kisan headlight modulator on it about three years ago, and I don't recall there being anything in the way at that time. I did have to get to the back side of the headlamps to install the modulator, and I didn't have to remove anything. I did, however, have to donate some skin...
+1 for an 07

Slardy

 
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Hmmmm...... I've changed them on GenI's, GenII's, and AE's. Ain't exactly rocket science.

Hint - change out BOTH bulbs. They tend to burn out very close together.

 
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+100 to all. So that's firsthand knowledge of 06,07,09,10 AE. There isn't a difference. Not sure why the dash or any panels would have to come out, but then again I have small hands. Probably something worth knowing how to do. First time that clip is an ass kicker till you know what you're doing.

 
I talked to my regular mechanic. It'll cost me $60-90 labor plus the cost of the bulbs for him to do it. I think I'm going to take him up on that.
He will need to know if I want OEM or PIAA replacements. I'll scan NEPRTs for that information.
Darn.. And here I thought the 10 bucks I was charging to change the air in the tires was obscene..

Thanks for this tidbit.. I'm changing the price to 15 bucks.

And FWIW..it's Rocket surgery Hal

 
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I talked to my regular mechanic. It'll cost me $60-90 labor plus the cost of the bulbs for him to do it. I think I'm going to take him up on that.
He will need to know if I want OEM or PIAA replacements. I'll scan NEPRTs for that information.
Search is your friend. If you don't like to replace the bulbs too often then stick with either standard bulbs or the MC/off road spec. "vibration resistant" ones. The + bulbs burn out quicker but I enjoy the little bit brighter light they provide.

Venture out and do it yourself!
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So I guess my idea of unplugging one headight to help power my heated gear is a bad idea?
withstupidsmiley.gif
Haven't done it yet but I was thinking about it. I'm a recovering blackbird owner and those bikes had re-occuring charging system problems.
For me I would want the exposure (to traffic) that both bulbs give you, losing one to save juice is just not real smart IMO.

 
So I guess my idea of unplugging one headight to help power my heated gear is a bad idea?
withstupidsmiley.gif
Haven't done it yet but I was thinking about it. I'm a recovering blackbird owner and those bikes had re-occuring charging system problems.
For me I would want the exposure (to traffic) that both bulbs give you, losing one to save juice is just not real smart IMO.
I guess it depends on how cold you are?
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Rather than unplugging it, maybe install a relay and switch on one side?

Or... I wonder how much power savings there is when you use a headlight modulator? OF course that only works during daylight hours.

Or... true HID headlights do use a bit less power than incandescent halogen bulbs. Better quality ballasts are said to be more efficient than the real cheap Chinese ones. That said, I've had my eBay HIDs for 5 years now and still going strong. Some day I'll have to measure how much current they use.

 
Fred- Your real cold if your laying on the side of the road dead.

The newer micro all digital-AC ballasts draw less than 3w at run, 5X that however during turn on (lamp-up). So 35w capsule + 3w(max) = 38w X 2 = 76w (vs.) the 2x55w or 110w of the stock halogen. Small savings of 34w and some may need/want this. Plus the HID is 2400lm (more than 2x brighter and last wayyy longer (the high end kits this is anyway).

 
..Small savings of 34w and some may need/want this...
Heated grips typically consume 36W at full power so that savings is equal to what heated grips draw.

I would be cautious about adding anything to the headlight system that could increase the opportunity for failure.

 
The only procedure difference between a Gen I and Gen II is the Gen II says to remove the dash panel. Not owning one I dunno about that part, but the rest is the same.

Difficulty rating: 2 of 5

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Unplug the connector from the bulb, noting the orientation of the plug.

Pull off the rubber cover, it's not hooked or locked on in any fashion, just give it a tug.

There is a wire retainer that needs to be unhooked on one side and it will swing out of the way. HINT: Using a mechanics mirror or any other small mirror take a look at the headlight and size up the situation, it should give you a good view that you may not otherwise be able to get. Give it a good study, if you can see the wire retainer first this will be much easier to do.

Remove the bulb.

Being *very* careful not to touch the glass envelope install the new bulb. HINT: Look in the headlight bucket when you install the bulb, it will make it much easier to see what is going on and get the bulb positioned correctly. Remember to orient the bulb the same way as the connector was oriented.

This is the hard part for me, swing the wire retainer over the bulb base while not snagging any stray wire bundles and hook it. Use the mirror again if needed.

Push the rubber cover back over the bulb and housing. HINT: Spritz the rubber cover around the center hole and outside ring with a silicon spray and it will go on slicker 'n snot on a brass door knob much easier.

Plug in the connector.

(Gen II, replace the dash panel.)

Open a beverage of you choice and celebrate a job well done.

HINT: The headlights burn out within hours of each other, buy two and replace them both at the same time. HINT II: In ~8k miles pull out one of the perfectly good headlights and replace it. Wrap up the removed but still good bulb and put it someplace like the tail under the back seat or tool tray. Now, when one headlight burns out after 800 hours the other one will remain good and get you home from any trip you may be on.
Ionbeam has it nailed (of course).

I did take a few pictures, not very good, but may be of some help.

https://atrophy.lock.net/pi/20120924/index.php

Iggy, Top-Speed1 says he has HID ballasts in the way, so not typical.
Mucho gracias, very helpful...some 15-year old but new in the box Hella H4+50% now seeing the light in my Gen 1
 
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