AE YCCS Shift

[CCA]

Afther 30K on my 2006 AE I wish there was a way to adjust the shifting specialy from 1. to 2. and 3 gear. It is some times to rough.

To mee it seems like the gear "changing software" cuts the engine power to long when up shifting, this makes a lag in the power transison, compared to when I accelerate harder then the gear change is mutch smoother.

Also when the engine is cold over night, the shift feel is perfect.

Of cause I know it,s possible to manipulate the throtlle when shifting, but the when the gear shift control can do it perfect when the engine is cold it should be possible when it is warm to.

Is it possible to change or reprogram settings in the software, are there upgrades?

I guess the software reduce engine power (ignition retard?) for a splitt second when up changing gears, if this time was shorter I think it would be right.

 

[CCA]

Afther 30K on my 2006 AE I wish there was a way to adjust the shifting specialy from 1. to 2. and 3 gear. It is some times to rough, when changing gear up below aprox. 5000rpm.

To mee it seems like the gear "changing software" cuts the engine power to long when up shifting, this makes a lag in the power transison, compared to when I accelerate harder then the gear change is mutch smoother. almost seemless.

Also when the engine is cold over night, the shift feel is perfect.

Of cause I know it,s possible to manipulate the throtlle when shifting, but the when the gear shift control can do it perfect when the engine is cold, it should be possible when it is warm to.

Is it possible to change or reprogram settings in the software, are there upgrades?

I guess the software reduce engine power (ignition retard?) for a splitt second when up changing gears, if thistime was 10-20% shorter I think it would be right.

 

[giarcg]

My initial impression was as yours...the low gear changes did seem rough. Unlike what you describe however I have found that letting the bike warm up at least to the point that the idle-up feature kicks off and the bike settles into the "normal" idle speed (about as long as it takes to put on my gear) the shifting is improved dramatically. As opposed to starting out with no temp indication on the gauge.

The other thing I have found that has dramatically improved shifting is oil type. The previous owner used Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40, a good oil that I have used for some time in my BMWs. I continued using it in the FJR initially but have changed my strategy due to the shared gearbox/engine oil supply. I've gone to 2000 mile intervals with a high quality heavy duty conventional oil (Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 20w-50) and I was blown away by the difference in shifting feel...much improved. Much smoother, quieter and precise..the engine sounds better as well. I don't know if it is the increased viscosity or what but it works great for me. I continue to be a believer in synthetics for extended change intervals and temp extremes in my other vehicles but I'm sticking with Delvac and reduced intervals in the FJR.

Correct, the system momentarily alters ignition to facilitate up shifts and I'm not aware of any means to adjust this. However, I have read somewhere that it is possible to adjust the engine speed at which clutch engagement begins (approx. 1500rpm).

I also agree that the shifts feel better during fast acceleration.

 

[Bounce]

Duplicate posts being merged.

 

[CCA]

My initial impression was as yours...the low gear changes did seem rough. Unlike what you describe however I have found that letting the bike warm up at least to the point that the idle-up feature kicks off and the bike settles into the "normal" idle speed (about as long as it takes to put on my gear) the shifting is improved dramatically. As opposed to starting out with no temp indication on the gauge.

The other thing I have found that has dramatically improved shifting is oil type. The previous owner used Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40, a good oil that I have used for some time in my BMWs. I continued using it in the FJR initially but have changed my strategy due to the shared gearbox/engine oil supply. I've gone to 2000 mile intervals with a high quality heavy duty conventional oil (Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 20w-50) and I was blown away by the difference in shifting feel...much improved. Much smoother, quieter and precise..the engine sounds better as well. I don't know if it is the increased viscosity or what but it works great for me. I continue to be a believer in synthetics for extended change intervals and temp extremes in my other vehicles but I'm sticking with Delvac and reduced intervals in the FJR.

Correct, the system momentarily alters ignition to facilitate up shifts and I'm not aware of any means to adjust this. However, I have read somewhere that it is possible to adjust the engine speed at which clutch engagement begins (approx. 1500rpm).

I also agree that the shifts feel better during fast acceleration.

Thanks, the experience with the Delvac oil is interesting, I think i will try it on my bike.

But in my experience the shifting when cold is exact opposite of yours, my bike change smoothest when the engine i "stone" cold, like over night.

When I put on my gear and just start and take of, the change from 1. to 2. is 100% perfect, when the first bar shows on the temp. guage the shift demands more throtle controll to be smooth.

So I think the sifting is a bit slower when the oil is cold and thick, or there is a different program for "cold engine shifting"?

In my opinion the engine rpm should start to increase before the clucth has engaged fully, after the gears has changed. (when cold the cluch and acctuator mooves slower).

I guess the free play in the clutch between the slave cylinder end the pressure plate could play a part, I wish i know the exact description of what sensors and inputs that are "calculated" in the ECU when it make a gear shift.

What goverens ignition when gear changes, is it a preprogramed splitt second delay, or a signal from some sensor or the clucth actuator that set the ignition back to "full" power/normale advance when the cluch engages?

 

[mcatrophy]

...

What goverens ignition when gear changes, is it a preprogramed splitt second delay, or a signal from some sensor or the clucth actuator that set the ignition back to "full" power/normale advance when the cluch engages?

The ECU reduces engine power for as long as it considers the clutch slip is too high for a smooth engagement. In other words it's not a timed event, it simply waits until the clutch has stopped slipping.

For the smoothest upward change, momentarily reduce the throttle setting as you flick the switch, it enables a much more rapid and smoother gear change.

If you've done a "bad" high-throttle up-change and the clutch is slipping and the engine no longer pulling, it's quicker to dip the throttle to to bring the revs down to help re-engage the clutch so that normal service can be resumed, rather than wait. However, it can give a bit of a lurch.

 

[CCA]

...

What goverens ignition when gear changes, is it a preprogramed splitt second delay, or a signal from some sensor or the clucth actuator that set the ignition back to "full" power/normale advance when the cluch engages?

The ECU reduces engine power for as long as it considers the clutch slip is too high for a smooth engagement. In other words it's not a timed event, it simply waits until the clutch has stopped slipping.

For the smoothest upward change, momentarily reduce the throttle setting as you flick the switch, it enables a much more rapid and smoother gear change.

If you've done a "bad" high-throttle up-change and the clutch is slipping and the engine no longer pulling, it's quicker to dip the throttle to to bring the revs down to help re-engage the clutch so that normal service can be resumed, rather than wait. However, it can give a bit of a lurch.

Here is a some thing different with the way I experience the gear shift, under relativly hard acceleration the shift from 1. to 2. is perfect. By normale or slow riding it is like the power is cut for so "long" time that engine almost brake when the clutch engages, before it is back to normale power, if I don`t compensate with the throttle.

If the engine speed is relativly lower then the gear box speed when the clutch engages it will result in retardation, I think the engine rpm drops to mutch when the clutch disengages, so the bike almost breakes when the clutch reengages.

Could a wrongly set ignition, contribute to this?

 

[mcatrophy]

...

Here is a some thing different with the way I experience the gear shift, under relativly hard acceleration the shift from 1. to 2. is perfect. By normale or slow riding it is like the power is cut for so "long" time that engine almost brake when the clutch engages, before it is back to normale power, if I don`t compensate with the throttle.

If the engine speed is relativly lower then the gear box speed when the clutch engages it will result in retardation, I think the engine rpm drops to mutch when the clutch disengages, so the bike almost breakes when the clutch reengages.

Could a wrongly set ignition, contribute to this?

It sounds like you are not controlling the throttle as well as you might.

During the up-change, you should momentarily reduce the throttle just a little, it's an almost instantaneous down-up just as you flip the switch. You are doing little more than unloading the gearbox for the fraction of a second it takes for the YCCS to change gear. This will give you a fast, smooth change with a barely perceptible reduction of acceleration.

If you don't reduce the throttle during the change, the revs will rise during the change time, the clutch will slip for possibly several seconds while the (reduced power) engine speed gradually slows. You can do it, but it's not the way to get a slick gear-change, any more than you would try that with a conventional clutch lever.

The Owner's Manual says "Always return the throttle to the closed position while changing gears ..." - this is NOT the way to do it, you'll have a very jerky and sluggish change.

Similarly when changing down, presumably your throttle is shut; just open it a fraction for the moment the gear-change occurs, this will unload the gearbox and build the revs for the lower gear to engage more easily. Again, it's only for a fraction of a second. If you don't, you'll get a noisy clunk and a slow clutch engagement (makes it reasonably safe to change down while cornering, even on a slippery road).

Where it gets tricky is when you want to change to a lower gear while you are accelerating. This is more difficult to judge, but always if you think "unload the gearbox" for the change time, you'll get a smoother and quicker change.

 

[Constant Mesh]

Don't have an AE but I don't believe the engine is controlled in any way by the shifting controller. No manipulation of the ignition or fueling occurs.

The rider's control of the throttle, etc. can greatly affect how well the shifts are executed, how much the controller slips the clutch, etc.

 

[CCA]

...

Here is a some thing different with the way I experience the gear shift, under relativly hard acceleration the shift from 1. to 2. is perfect. By normale or slow riding it is like the power is cut for so "long" time that engine almost brake when the clutch engages, before it is back to normale power, if I don`t compensate with the throttle.

If the engine speed is relativly lower then the gear box speed when the clutch engages it will result in retardation, I think the engine rpm drops to mutch when the clutch disengages, so the bike almost breakes when the clutch reengages.

Could a wrongly set ignition, contribute to this?

It sounds like you are not controlling the throttle as well as you might.

During the up-change, you should momentarily reduce the throttle just a little, it's an almost instantaneous down-up just as you flip the switch. You are doing little more than unloading the gearbox for the fraction of a second it takes for the YCCS to change gear. This will give you a fast, smooth change with a barely perceptible reduction of acceleration.

If you don't reduce the throttle during the change, the revs will rise during the change time, the clutch will slip for possibly several seconds while the (reduced power) engine speed gradually slows. You can do it, but it's not the way to get a slick gear-change, any more than you would try that with a conventional clutch lever.

The Owner's Manual says "Always return the throttle to the closed position while changing gears ..." - this is NOT the way to do it, you'll have a very jerky and sluggish change.

Similarly when changing down, presumably your throttle is shut; just open it a fraction for the moment the gear-change occurs, this will unload the gearbox and build the revs for the lower gear to engage more easily. Again, it's only for a fraction of a second. If you don't, you'll get a noisy clunk and a slow clutch engagement (makes it reasonably safe to change down while cornering, even on a slippery road).

Where it gets tricky is when you want to change to a lower gear while you are accelerating. This is more difficult to judge, but always if you think "unload the gearbox" for the change time, you'll get a smoother and quicker change.

Here is what is different: You say: "If you don't reduce the throttle during the change, the revs will rise during the change time" NO it does not rise, Not at all, i drops, and the slower i ride the more it drops, reducing the throttle even makes it worse.

But noet when the bike is cold, the shift is perfect, it then feels like there is a liitle slip in the clutch, when hot it`s more like the clutch engages faster with out anny slip at all.

So wy does it shift perfect when it is cold?

 

[mcatrophy]

Don't have an AE but I don't believe the engine is controlled in any way by the shifting controller. No manipulation of the ignition or fueling occurs.

The rider's control of the throttle, etc. can greatly affect how well the shifts are executed, how much the controller slips the clutch, etc.

My understanding is that the ignition can be retarded by the YCCS if its MCU perceives too great a difference between the two clutch shafts.

As a rider, you certainly feel the reduced power if you try a high throttle up-change, no question. It's not the engine sitting on the limiter, it'll do it at lower (but still too high for the new gear) engine speeds. The power seems to hang for a while until the clutch is nearer fully engaged.

Just looked into this a bit further, found an error code reference in the service manual:

Fault code No.: Sh__39

Symptom: Ignition timing retard output signal is abnormal.

Malfunction detecting condition: Detected ignition retard signal from MCU (motor control unit) to ECU is abnormal.

 

[ScottyUSN]

You like how the bike shifts when it is cold, but not warmed up... What is your idle set at?

 

[CCA]

You like how the bike shifts when it is cold, but not warmed up... What is your idle set at?

The idle is set to 1000 rpm, aprox 1200 rpm when the engine is cold.

 

[ScottyUSN]

You like how the bike shifts when it is cold, but not warmed up... What is your idle set at?

The idle is set to 1000 rpm, aprox 1200 rpm when the engine is cold.

There is running improvement with the bike at 1100 compared to 1000. Give it a try.

 

[mcatrophy]

...

There is running improvement with the bike at 1100 compared to 1000. Give it a try.

... though you may find it a little reluctant to disengage when slowing to a stop

. But it can't hurt to experiment.

 

[ScottyUSN]

...

There is running improvement with the bike at 1100 compared to 1000. Give it a try.

... though you may find it a little reluctant to disengage when slowing to a stop

. But it can't hurt to experiment.

Engage/Disengage occurs at about 1800 if it hasn't been adjusted. I moved my idle from 950-1000 weeks after purchase to 1100-1150 resolved some minor engine stumble on decel and improved low speed handling. Can't say I remember any shifting improvement, but I didn't stay at the 1000 idle long enough to get acclimated.

 

[mcatrophy]

...

Engage/Disengage occurs at about 1800 if it hasn't been adjusted.

Just to be pedantic (wot, me?), it officially starts to engage at 1800 and it disengages at 1300. If you adjust it, both go up or down together.

If you want to adjust it, read this.

 

[dbx]

I moved my idle from 950-1000 weeks after purchase to 1100-1150 resolved some minor engine stumble on decel and improved low speed handling. Can't say I remember any shifting improvement, but I didn't stay at the 1000 idle long enough to get acclimated.

At an idle speed of 1100 RPM my 07AE started throwing SH_48 errors until I backed it down to 950-1000 again. When I got the bike brand new, it was adjusted to 800 RPM. These days, the idle is all over the place from about 750-1000, but never over 1000 or I get the SH_48 errors again.

Regarding the shift smoothness when the engine is cold versus hot, mine is ultra buttery smooth when cold. Once the engine warms up, I can still shift smoothly, but it takes a tiny bit of paying attention. When it's cold, I don't think I could shift abruptly if I tried, it's that smooth.

 

[ScottyUSN]

I moved my idle from 950-1000 weeks after purchase to 1100-1150 resolved some minor engine stumble on decel and improved low speed handling. Can't say I remember any shifting improvement, but I didn't stay at the 1000 idle long enough to get acclimated.

At an idle speed of 1100 RPM my 07AE started throwing SH_48 errors until I backed it down to 950-1000 again. When I got the bike brand new, it was adjusted to 800 RPM. These days, the idle is all over the place from about 750-1000, but never over 1000 or I get the SH_48 errors again.

Regarding the shift smoothness when the engine is cold versus hot, mine is ultra buttery smooth when cold. Once the engine warms up, I can still shift smoothly, but it takes a tiny bit of paying attention. When it's cold, I don't think I could shift abruptly if I tried, it's that smooth.

Does it seem to you it is "buttery smooth" because the idle is running a touch higher and steadier as the bike warms up? Assuming your bike is running at slightly higher idle while cold.

2 Years running at 1100 idle and I've never seen an error code (knock on wood).