Anti-seize Lubricant

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ian

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I bought some of the above at NAPA today and have a few questions before I reassemble the front end.

Should this be used only on the sparkplugs or on any steel bolt going into aluminium that doesn't require Locktite?

Does the use of this product change the method of torquing the bolt? I'm wondering if the additional lubrication could lead to the bolt being tighter than the torque wrench indicates. TIA Ian, Iowa

 
I wouldn't use it at all. Last time I used it on spark plugs, on the advice of someone who "knew" about aluminum heads, they wouldn't stay tight.

 
I've used anti-sieze on my plugs in my cage for years, never had an issue. I usually replaced the plugs on my bikes each year, so I didn't use it there.

 
Many anti seize compounds have some type of metalic in them so if you use them on the plugs don't get it too close to the tip or it can short out the electrode.

 
I bought some of the above at NAPA today and have a few questions before I reassemble the front end.Should this be used only on the sparkplugs or on any steel bolt going into aluminium that doesn't require Locktite?

Does the use of this product change the method of torquing the bolt? I'm wondering if the additional lubrication could lead to the bolt being tighter than the torque wrench indicates. TIA Ian, Iowa
Use on any bolt that goes into aluminum that may be subject to extreme corrosion. Quite subjective, I know, but it's a judgment call every time. Generally, don't use it. Yes, it's a lubricant, and lower torque specs are called for-one of the problems with using it. When you do use it, regardless of application, use it sparingly-a little goes a long way.

 
On my wings I used to change plugs every 60-70K miles - whether they needed them or not. I never used anything on the threads nor did I ever have a problem removing them.

 
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I had a major problem getting the plugs out of my SV-650, especially the rear one, so I started using the anti-seize. That's the only place I'd ever use it, and I use the stuff made for spark plugs. I use a very thin smear of marine grease on axles, but not on the threads. That's mainly to stop the corrosion problems I've run into. (I battled the rear axle on my '82 GS1100GL shaft-drive for 3 days and I sure as hell don't want to repeat that.)

 
Been using it religiously for many years on the dirt race bikes. These bikes take a real pounding and get abused regularly. No problems and never had any issues with nuts/bolts/plugs coming loose or seizing. As previously mentioned, use very sparingly and torque as required.

 
Use on any bolt that goes into aluminum that may be subject to extreme corrosion. Quite subjective, I know, but it's a judgment call every time. Generally, don't use it. Yes, it's a lubricant, and lower torque specs are called for-one of the problems with using it. When you do use it, regardless of application, use it sparingly-a little goes a long way.
I use a very small amount on the threads of my plugs & wipe the opposing threads at each change to prevent gunkification. I also put a thin coat of dialectic grease on top before installing (even though most of it gets transferred to the rubber holder in the socket).

 
What about the axle pinch bolts? Those aluminum threads see a lot of action. Water, etc. can get to the bolt and threads via the open pinch gap.
I use a small dab of anti-sieze on almost any steel bolt going into aluminum, including spark plugs. The main exceptions being those which get loctite instead. Once I use anti-sieze in an application, I sometimes don't add more the next time I have the same bolt out.

I never thought about the pinch bolts. Since I don't take them all the way out I haven't put anything on them.

 
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