Any Tech Gurus Near Dayton, OH?

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NormKern

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Location
Dayton, OH
Left my '14 FJR ES with a good friend while I was on vacation so he could do valve clearance check, throttle body sync & rear suspension linkage check & lubrication. Turns out he was too busy with family stuff & didn't get it done. Thinking about picking up the bike & doing it myself now that I'm back. (Located in Dayton, OH area.)

Have a heated, well-lit fully equipped shop. Have done my own work on lots of bikes over the years. I can put a "skyhook" together to hold up the bike for taking the centerstand off to do the rear suspension linkage, but it would be nice to have someone who has done this stuff to supervise and lend an occasional hand when needed.

Anyone in the area who would like to help?

Norm Kern


 
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I'm right in the middle of my winter maintenance, otherwise I would ride down there. Work keeps annoyingly getting in the way of finishing this task. If you can wait a couple weeks, I'd be happy to help. I'll even bring my valve shim kit, although you probably won't need it.

 
Phil- Do you have any concerns about supporting the rear sliders on jack stands? I just finished a valve check and need to service the swingarm this winter. I mounted a hand winch on a garage beam and though about setting the rear with Canyon cages on jacks stands but worried about the strength of the mounts.

Norm- I just did a valve check/shim on my 13 with the help of a local guy. I'm no expert but I could swing down that way if you want another set of hands. I also have a shim kit.

 
Phil- Do you have any concerns about supporting the rear sliders on jack stands? I just finished a valve check and need to service the swingarm this winter. I mounted a hand winch on a garage beam and though about setting the rear with Canyon cages on jacks stands but worried about the strength of the mounts..
My rear sliders mount to a bracket that bolts in two places on the muffler bracket and one place on the back side of the foot peg bracket, so the load is shared by both the subframe and main frame. The popular method of hanging the bike from either a ceiling mount or some type of gantry places all the load on the subframe only, so in that regard my way is at least as good. I service my rear suspension link pivots every year like this without issue.
Note: either way you support the rear, if the front tire is supporting the front of the bike, do NOT let the handle bars turn. The twisting motion destabilizes the whole bike and a few have ended up on their sides. If I've got the back on stands, I always put the front on stands too, whether I'm pulling the front apart or not.

I'm not familiar with how the Canyon Cages mount to the bike.

 
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Phil- Do you have any concerns about supporting the rear sliders on jack stands? I just finished a valve check and need to service the swingarm this winter. I mounted a hand winch on a garage beam and though about setting the rear with Canyon cages on jacks stands but worried about the strength of the mounts..
Note: either way you support the rear, if the front tire is supporting the front of the bike, do NOT let the handle bars turn. The twisting motion destabilizes the whole bike and a few have ended up on their sides. If I've got the back on stands, I always put the front on stands too, whether I'm pulling the front apart or not.

I'm not familiar with how the Canyon Cages mount to the bike.
My canyon cages mount to a large bolt on the subframe at the top and the main muffler bolt on the bottom. They would be a solid and safe way to support the rear as long as you don't have to remove the mufflers part way through a procedure.

Understand the need to keep the front wheel straight. I would put a cable tie in the front brake lever to keep the front wheel from rolling as well.

A friend of mine has an automotive engine hoist with a hydraulic lift arm that I can borrow. Will see it it's tall enough to do the job of supporting the rear.

Am still sorting out my options. Thanks to the info and offers of help here, I have more choices.

Thanks!

Norm Kern

 
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Got my bike back on Tuesday, Dec. 29th. Idles smoother after valve adjustment, TBS, rear suspension linkage service. Replaced spark plugs with new iridiums, even though old ones were fine. Coolant flushed & replaced as part of the job. My friend charged $600 total parts & labor.

For those interested in valve clearances, here's what we found. (First clearance check, 41k mi.)

-Valve clearance check (INT 006-008, EX 007-010)

Cylinder L-R 1 2 3 4

Initial clearance EX: 008 008 009 010 008 009 007 008

INT: 006 005 006 006 005 005 006 006

When we saw that two intake shims were below minimum spec and that we would be pulling a camshaft anyway, we decided to change all shims that were below max spec. except #2 exhaust which was already at maximum. Since valve clearance either stays the same or closes up, this assures we will probably never have to change one again. Everything is max spec now.

Thanks to all who offered help or advice!

Norm Kern

 
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