Audiovox Cruise install troubleshooting help.

[ionbeam]

You want to use the DC scale because it will average the AC (actually digital) signal coming from the coil trigger circuit. When the frequency is low = low rpm = the average voltage will be low, as rpms climb the average will climb. As a diagnostic this is effective. The trigger signal from the ECU will always have the same AC voltage, it's just the frequency that changes. Your volt meter on the AC scale won't show the true engine frequency change. If your meter has an AC frequency scale, that is best to use. If the DC voltage doesn't change it is indicating that there is a problem.

In the troubleshooting section of the install manual (link previously supplied in this thread) you can watch a diagnostic LED in the servo to determine if the coil signal is being detected correctly.

 

[derm75]

You want to use the DC scale because it will average the AC (actually digital) signal coming from the coil trigger circuit. When the frequency is low = low rpm = the average voltage will be low, as rpms climb the average will climb. As a diagnostic this is effective. The trigger signal from the ECU will always have the same AC voltage, it's just the frequency that changes. Your volt meter on the AC scale won't show the true engine frequency change. If your meter has an AC frequency scale, that is best to use. If the DC voltage doesn't change it is indicating that there is a problem.
In the troubleshooting section of the install manual (link previously supplied in this thread) you can watch a diagnostic LED in the servo to determine if the coil signal is being detected correctly.

Thanks for the tutorial!

I've looked at the diagnostic LED's and they appear correct. Everything tests well now, not sure why it still doesn't work!

 

[ionbeam]

Disconnect the vacuum hose from the servo unit and at the servo end, plug in a vacuum gauge. At idle you should see ~8-10 in/hg.

If all the electrical tests pass according to the LEDs on the servo the problem has to be vacuum or the throttle linkage. If there is too much slack in the bead chain the servo will see an error condition and not set. The bead chain should have as little slack as possible and still let the throttle tab sit on and return to the idle stop.

I believe it was mentioned that the CC won't set while the bike is on the center stand.

 

[wfooshee]

Bead chain slack is a possibility. If the cruise pulls its throttle cable and nothing happens, it lets go. The movement that takes up the bead chain slack may be enough to trigger that.

The cruise doesn't just yank until something happens. It knows how much movement it's creating, and it expects some reaction from the vehicle as measured by the tach wire. If nothing happens, it assumes something's broken and stops trying.

 

[derm75]

I have 8-10 in/Hg of vacuum.

Servo cable is as tight as it can be while still allowing throttle to return to idle.

I have road tested the bike three or four times. Never used the centerstand.

Still no cruise...

 

[ionbeam]

Well, I have to ask, is it a new cruise control or a used unit? It looks like it should be working. Just to confirm, it passes ALL the LED tests on the servo unit with no irregularities?

 

[derm75]

Well, I have to ask, is it a new cruise control or a used unit? It looks like it should be working. Just to confirm, it passes ALL the LED tests on the servo unit with no irregularities?

This is a new unit.

I have verified all LED tests that I am aware of; everything highlighted in blue below.

ROAD TESTING THE CRUISE CONTROL Be sure to fully test all functions of your new cruise control on a level surface away from predestrian and vehicle traffic. While travelling 35 M.P.H. turn switch on , then press Set button. Unit will engage when Set button is released. To disengage, tap on brake or turn switch off - cruise will disengage. Follow same procedure at 45 M.P.H. and at 55 M.P.H. If unit is inoperative, open cover on cruise and look at the L.E.D. Press Set button, L.E.D. should light. Press Resume button, L.E.D. should light.Step on the brake, L.E.D. should light. If L.E.D. does not light then check wiring.

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The diagnostic LEDThere is an LED inside the main CCS-100 unit housing next to the set of jumpers. (On my unit the LED is red.) It has two key diagnostic features.

First, you can use it to tell if your buttons are working - that is, the On, Off, Set, and Resume buttons on the control pad. Once you turn on your bike and press the "On" button on the cruise control switch pad, the main unit is energized. Now press the Set button and watch the LED inside the main unit. If it turns on and then off, your Set button is working. Do the same for the Resume button. Then press the Off button and try the others - they should not cause the LED to light, because the whole unit is now off.

Second - and this is the big one - you can tell if your signal from the ignition coil / tachometer tap is working. Start the bike, press the "On" button to enable cruise, and watch the LED. It should be flashing on and off at a steady pace - mine was about once a second or so. If it's not on at all (when not pressing any control pad buttons) then your engine-speed pickup isn't working. The LED should flash at a rate proportional to the engine speed: rev the engine and you'll see the light blink faster. If it does, you have a good connection to your tach, coil, or whatever you're using for the engine speed.

 

[eflyguy]

How about disconnecting brake switches to absolutely confirm that's not the issue?

 

[ionbeam]

Hmm...

You did remove the jumper at the left end of the DIP switch?

Tell us what the DIP switch settings are.

What are you doing with your throttle hand when you push the SET button? The hand grip needs to be held loosely so the servo can adjust the bead chain. Just a wild shot.

 

[mcatrophy]

How about disconnecting brake switches to absolutely confirm that's not the issue?

... and shorting the brake wire to zero volts, though probably already taken care of with a relay, see post #17

 

[Constant Mesh]

Disconnect the purple wire and parallel it with the servo's black wire. This will isolate it from the brake circuit and assure that it's at ground potential -- the same potential as the black wire.

On the ABS bikes the brake circuit yellow wire also connects to the ABS control module. I don't suppose the ABS module could be introducing a tiny residual voltage on the circuit?

 

[eflyguy]

That's what I was thinking.. if not grounded, a "floating" wire could be enough above ground to cause the cruise to not engage.

 

[mcatrophy]

All these systems that depend on the brake light as a safety circuit inject a small current to detect the failure mode of a broken wire. This is the case for the ABS, the ECU, as well as the after-market cruise controller. This is why replacing the brake lights with LED lights causes a problem, because, unlike incandescent lights, LEDs do not give a low resistance to ground when not energised. These systems all will cry foul with quite a low voltage detected on the brake light wire.

 

[ionbeam]

We are getting down to it on this problem. If the jumper is off, if the DIP switch is set right and grounding the purple tail light wire doesn't get the CC to set speed then it looks like this may be the first bad out of the box CC that I can remember.

 

[derm75]

Sorry for the delay, I was on a three day road trip in southern Colorado and northern New Mexico.

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions.

The jumper has been removed, and the dip switches are #'s 1,4 and 7 ON and #'s 2,3,5,and 6 OFF.

I may have some time tomorrow to try grounding the purple wire. I have to slog through ten hours of online training this week in addition to my usual work schedule.

 

[ktown]

All the input on this subject is great!

Just saying because I have same issue and this gives me some assistance. Thanks

 

[ionbeam]

It's beginning to look like you may have a bad out of the box cruise control which may be a first. If it is indeed bad the first suspect would be the vacuum solenoids in the servo. I have had the solenoids apart and it is possible for the internal plunger to get stuck in the bore because the plunger length is slightly too long for the bore length.

While almost certainly not related to your inoperative condition, switch 7 should be set to OFF. When switch 7 is ON it tells the servo that you are using a breaker point system to trigger the coils, when set to OFF it tells the servo that your coils are triggered by the ECU. For some reason this is important for the Gen II to work correctly but it isn't so critical to the Gen I.

 

[neilj14]

I just finished installing a Rostra kit on my 04 Gen 1 bike. I struggled with a similar problem..... engagement of the cruise. I found that I could not pick us a speed pulse on any of the bikes VSS signal wires, so I purchased a sensor kit for my rear wheel. Problem solved. As much as the other wires are supposed to work.... I suspect this is your problem. If the system is passing all of your basic troubleshooting tests, I would be looking into the VSS signal.

Good luck.

 

[ionbeam]

The AVCC does not use a VSS signal, it only uses a tach signal picked up from one of the two coil trigger wires.

 

[wfooshee]

The AVCC can use a VSS signal, but the one on the FJR counts too fast, too many pulses per mile. If he wired it as he showed, there is no VSS connection.

He has switch 3 off, which is tach only, so the speed pickup is correct.