Battery pig-tail o.e.m. on '16?

[sullivan]

My 16 had a pigtail on the right side, tucked behind the side plastic.  Without taking side plastic off my 19, does it also have one?  My thought is that perhaps the dealer put one on the 16 to keep it charged on the showroom floor over winter.

 

[Niehart]

They are dealer installed.

 

[Bounce]

And can be found at local places like Pep Boys or other auto parts places if looking for one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Connecters-Extension-Connector-Maintainer/dp/B079ZTBHYK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=batteries+a+connector&qid=1575209959&sr=8-4

 

[sullivan]

That's it.  I need to get an Eager Beaver installed before next season, so pigtail can go on at that time.  I might search for one that has thicker gauge wire, if it even exists.

 

[Niehart]

The one Bounce linked to is good because of it's 4 feet length. That length will easily reach over to the left side of the gas tank. That's where I need my heated gear plugged in.

 

[RossKean]

Since I run my SAE connector from the unswitched side of my Fuzeblock under my seat, I neither need nor want a 4' wire.  I have it unswitched so I can charge the battery or run a compressor without the ignition on.  I also run my heated gear from the Fuzeblock via a coax cable but on the switched side.  

My preference would be 14  or 12 gauge rather than16 gauge...

 

[art miller]

Since I run my SAE connector from the unswitched side of my Fuzeblock under my seat, I neither need nor want a 4' wire.  I have it unswitched so I can charge the battery or run a compressor without the ignition on.  I also run my heated gear from the Fuzeblock via a coax cable but on the switched side.  

My preference would be 14  or 12 gauge rather than16 gauge...

^^^ you are the go to guy on these matters. The pigtail I use for the battery tender is from BatteryMINDer Plus. In the event I need to use the Slime compressor t inflate a tire while on the road, is the pigtail adequate to handle the load? I would keep a hand on the wire to ensure it does not get too hot. Any thoughts? 

 

[RossKean]

The pigtail I use for the battery tender is from BatteryMINDer Plus. In the event I need to use the Slime compressor t inflate a tire while on the road, is the pigtail adequate to handle the load? I would keep a hand on the wire to ensure it does not get too hot. Any thoughts? 

Depending on the model, a small compressor can draw up to 15 amps.  A pigtail wire at 16 ga., which can likely handle that current for at least a short time, might get a bit warm.  You never get in trouble running a heavier wire - that's why I would go with 14 or 12 ga.  Heavier (i.e. 10 ga) is stiffer and not really needed, IMHO.  (Still not enough to jump start the bike - go directly to the battery for that.) Make sure you have a suitably sized fuse in your pigtail.  Some people don't fuse their pigtail wires on the theory that whatever they have plugged in is fused.  That won't protect from an accidental dead short in the pigtail itself.  Stash a spare fuse or two on the bike - I keep a selection.  Bought a fuse "kit" on Amazon last year and I will never have to buy another blade fuse in my lifetime - something like 120 fuses in a plastic box in sizes ranging from 1.5 amp to 40 amp. for well under $10.

 

[Pterodactyl]

After a two week trip where I had to jump start Spousal Unit's bike a half dozen times I installed a remote positive terminal on my FJR.  I could jump another bike, or be jumped,  without removing any plastic.  This was before I carried a back-up lithium battery.  I never used the remote terminal.

 

[RossKean]

After a two week trip where I had to jump start Spousal Unit's bike a half dozen times I installed a remote positive terminal on my FJR.  I could jump another bike, or be jumped,  without removing any plastic.  This was before I carried a back-up lithium battery.  I never used the remote terminal.

How heavy wire did you use for the remote terminal and where did you put it?  What size fuse?  Starting current can be over 100 amps - especially if the starter is on the way out.

At least on the Gen II, the battery terminals are pretty easy to access - about a minute with an Allen key and something to release one pushpin rivet.  I also have been carrying a Li jump start pack.  Some peace of mind when camping or riding in BFE.

 

[Bounce]

If bumping up the wire ga, look at the fancy-store-bought one for ideas and make your own. Easy-peezy! I think 12 is getting close enough to 10 (on a bike) to be a little heavy but over-engineering is what we do. A compromise that will work for battery tenders, most bike-built air pumps, and heated gear would be the 14 ga from the block to each accessory and 12 as the "main" to from the block to the battery. Consider your uses accordingly.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

I use one of the pigtails that came with my warmnsafe heated gear. Also powers my aerostich tire pump. Direct to the battery. 

 

[sullivan]

Some very good feedback.  As for gauge, I've always been a firm believer in thicker is better.  In construction, I'll always see someone add his/her extension cord to an existing one, without even thinking about what is upstream of that (Have to remember what the weakest link is.)  When I was using a power inverter under the hood of my truck, money was spent on upgraded leads which went to terminal ends sourced from the local marine stores.  

 

[Bill Lumberg]

As much as I ride in the cold, and as much as I hate the cold, this reminds me that I need to install a second pigtail, same as the first. If one shorts or blows a fuse, I’ll be able to switch over without stopping or pulling the battery cover. Since I have an extra fused lead anyway...  

 

[Pterodactyl]

As much as I ride in the cold, and as much as I hate the cold, this reminds me that I need to install a second pigtail, same as the first. If one shorts or blows a fuse, I’ll be able to switch over without stopping or pulling the battery cover. Since I have an extra fused lead anyway...  

Cold? The Carolinas?  Cold?  I don’t care what you say, that’s funny.   

 

[RossKean]

Cold? The Carolinas?  Cold?  I don’t care what you say, that’s funny.   

Might get bad enough to stop wearing the mesh gear - at least add a liner!

Just kidding. I know it can get cold enough for heated gear.  Even in temperatures below 45 F or so, it is nice to have some electrical assist, especially on a cloudy or drizzly day.

For almost everything, I use 12 gauge wire although I have 10 gauge from the battery to the Fuzeblock (need to snip a couple strands to let it fit in the contact). Heavier wire isn't needed for anything you are likely to run and it is less flexible, especially if cold.  Make sure everything is fused correctly.  I don't overfuse by more than 10 to 25% of expected max draw but carry spare fuses just in case.

While I might use the pigtail to do a slow charge on the battery or even to run a compressor (up to 15A), I would never attempt to jump start the bike through this.  Even if fused high enough (it isn't), it could exceed the capacity of the Fuzeblock and the circuit board could become the fuse. 

Pigtail runs off my Fuzeblock with a 15A fuse on the unswitched side.  Hate having a bunch of wires hanging off the battery!  

 

[Bill Lumberg]

Cold? The Carolinas?  Cold?  I don’t care what you say, that’s funny.   

I’m not from the Carolinas. And I don’t care where you’re from, below freezing on the highway gets chilly. If you’ve got 8 hours in the teens, 20’s, or even 30’s, and your gear goes down, those get to be long highway miles. At least for me.