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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
Best location to ty-wrap cam chain on crank?
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<blockquote data-quote="Auburn" data-source="post: 1416641" data-attributes="member: 5661"><p>Not for the valve check. If you have to adjust the valves, then you will need to pull the tensioner.</p><p></p><p>This all assumes you have #1 cylinder at TDC (#1 cams will point opposite of each other (intake faces the back of bike, Exhaust faces forward). There are two holes in the cams that will line up with the arrows on top of the cover for cylinder #3 and the timing marks on the ends of the cam gears will be even with the cases. The manual shows all the marks and rayZerman put up some great <a href="https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/176200-valve-check-problem/?p=1416433" target="_blank">pictures</a> (this is with engine out and the holes are not quite lined up with the arrows) it also shows the holes and the arrows to look for.</p><p></p><p>I ended up using a impact driver to remove the crank timing bolted to the end of the crank so it would break it free without moving the crank. (same for putting it back on - IIRC it is 45 ft-lb). It is keyed, so no worry about installing wrong. I marked the cam chain and the gear so I could visually verify that everything was lined up after I got the cams back in. I tie wrapped the camshafts to keep them in line also. The biggest issue is when putting the cams back in, is to make sure you get the slack out of the cam chain between the exhaust cam and the crankshaft gear.</p><p></p><p>After the issue I had trying to use tie wraps, it is easier to just remove the cams, not worry about the tie wrap and follow the manual re-install. I had to move the cam chain on the crank one tooth after I got the slack out of the chain between the exhaust and the crank.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Auburn, post: 1416641, member: 5661"] Not for the valve check. If you have to adjust the valves, then you will need to pull the tensioner. This all assumes you have #1 cylinder at TDC (#1 cams will point opposite of each other (intake faces the back of bike, Exhaust faces forward). There are two holes in the cams that will line up with the arrows on top of the cover for cylinder #3 and the timing marks on the ends of the cam gears will be even with the cases. The manual shows all the marks and rayZerman put up some great [URL="https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/176200-valve-check-problem/?p=1416433"]pictures[/URL] (this is with engine out and the holes are not quite lined up with the arrows) it also shows the holes and the arrows to look for. I ended up using a impact driver to remove the crank timing bolted to the end of the crank so it would break it free without moving the crank. (same for putting it back on - IIRC it is 45 ft-lb). It is keyed, so no worry about installing wrong. I marked the cam chain and the gear so I could visually verify that everything was lined up after I got the cams back in. I tie wrapped the camshafts to keep them in line also. The biggest issue is when putting the cams back in, is to make sure you get the slack out of the cam chain between the exhaust cam and the crankshaft gear. After the issue I had trying to use tie wraps, it is easier to just remove the cams, not worry about the tie wrap and follow the manual re-install. I had to move the cam chain on the crank one tooth after I got the slack out of the chain between the exhaust and the crank. [/QUOTE]
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Technical & Mechanical Problems
Best location to ty-wrap cam chain on crank?
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