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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
Brake Job - Need confirmation of these parts
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<blockquote data-quote="RiderJoe" data-source="post: 1441418" data-attributes="member: 93203"><p>I recently did a full brake pad change and brake line/clutch fluid flush on my '06. The bike at that time had less than 8,000 miles on it, but obviously it has been sitting for many years. So to refresh everything and to make sure that all systems work I opted to go through the procedure. I strongly advise what others mentioned on this thread. Strictly follow the bleeding procedure/order recommended. Don't rush. Cover all painted surfaces below the reservoirs with towels to avoid paint damage from spilled fluid. If you are bleeding the lines by yourself, Speed Bleeder valves will make your job much easier and faster. (at $15 apiece for for 5 of them with the clutch will add up in price, but I think they worth it in time saved). Keep a very close eye out for the fluid level in the reservoirs as you are pumping the levers/pedal. They don't hold a lot of fluid and their levels can drop surprisingly fast during pumping. If you hear a slurping sound from the reservoirs during pumping, stop. Take a deep breath, and get comfortable with the idea that you just extended your bleeding procedure by 10-15 minutes (or more) because air has entered the lines, and you must get rid of all of it before you are done. You should have enough fresh fluid on hand to be able to do that in case it happens, or make sure that it won't happen to start with. Oh, one more thing: after topping off the fluid in the reservoirs during pumping, remember to loosely place the inner rubber covers on top of the reservoir openings before you start pumping again. During pumping a stream of fluid will be expelled from the bottom holes and can make a big mess by spraying brake fluid indiscriminately on everything nearby. Good luck!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RiderJoe, post: 1441418, member: 93203"] I recently did a full brake pad change and brake line/clutch fluid flush on my '06. The bike at that time had less than 8,000 miles on it, but obviously it has been sitting for many years. So to refresh everything and to make sure that all systems work I opted to go through the procedure. I strongly advise what others mentioned on this thread. Strictly follow the bleeding procedure/order recommended. Don't rush. Cover all painted surfaces below the reservoirs with towels to avoid paint damage from spilled fluid. If you are bleeding the lines by yourself, Speed Bleeder valves will make your job much easier and faster. (at $15 apiece for for 5 of them with the clutch will add up in price, but I think they worth it in time saved). Keep a very close eye out for the fluid level in the reservoirs as you are pumping the levers/pedal. They don't hold a lot of fluid and their levels can drop surprisingly fast during pumping. If you hear a slurping sound from the reservoirs during pumping, stop. Take a deep breath, and get comfortable with the idea that you just extended your bleeding procedure by 10-15 minutes (or more) because air has entered the lines, and you must get rid of all of it before you are done. You should have enough fresh fluid on hand to be able to do that in case it happens, or make sure that it won't happen to start with. Oh, one more thing: after topping off the fluid in the reservoirs during pumping, remember to loosely place the inner rubber covers on top of the reservoir openings before you start pumping again. During pumping a stream of fluid will be expelled from the bottom holes and can make a big mess by spraying brake fluid indiscriminately on everything nearby. Good luck! [/QUOTE]
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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
Brake Job - Need confirmation of these parts
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