CCT Operation

[Normanmeyers]

That makes more sense than a "floating" operation. I have not had a stock unit in my hand and I was relying on the pictures for my sense of how it worked.

Again...thanks,

Norm

 

[Brodie]

Brodie, how many miles do you have on the green dot CCT? Just wondering how far they have gone. I installed the blue dot CCT in '11 and currently have 60K miles on it. Its not making any noise.

I put the green dot tensioner on my latest ride when I got it 2 years ago. So far I put approx. 35K on it without a lick of issues.

My previous bike got a blue dot tensioner for the last 25K of it's life. Prior to that it ran the APE.

Don't get me wrong, the APE will serve you well provided you get it properly tensioned, but the Yamaha design is a release and forgetaboutit design.

YMMV

Brodie

 

[RossKean]

Brodie, how many miles do you have on the green dot CCT? Just wondering how far they have gone. I installed the blue dot CCT in '11 and currently have 60K miles on it. Its not making any noise.

I have 130,000+ miles on my "blue dot" CCT. No issues and I won't change it again unless there are noises on the right side. I originally installed it "just because".

 

[FJR Flyer]

Ross, thanks and good to know. I won't sweat it for a while, at least.

 

[Wm.P]

Thanks to RossKean and escapefjrtist for the reply. I'm going to replace the cct as soon as the holidays are over. Bike is not gonna move till then. Merry Christmas to all. Ride safe!

 

[mech 1 twa]

Best to put the engine in time first TDC. Cams in top center position before removing tensioner. Less chance of cams moving. Remove side cover and wedge something against timing chain to keep tension. Its tight to remove bolts but it can be done .Rec. a small magnet if bolts are hard to remove after loose.

 

[boyitgobob]

Edited due to stoopid post. Move along, nothing to see here!

 

[Fred W]

Best to put the engine in time first TDC. Cams in top center position before removing tensioner. Less chance of cams moving. Remove side cover and wedge something against timing chain to keep tension. Its tight to remove bolts but it can be done .Rec. a small magnet if bolts are hard to remove after loose.

Actually at #1 TDC, if you do slacken the chain the cams will be levered into rotating by the force of some of the valve springs (I forget which ones exactly), so you are right; if you can avoid slackening the chain, jamming something in behind the rear chain guide will prevent a lot of headaches when removing and replacing the CCT.

The more difficult situation is when you must slacken the chain to pull a cam out and change shims. You can tywrap the chain to the two cams, but securing the chain to the lower crank sprocket is more of a challenge. Still, if you have the other two secured in time, having only one sprocket to realign is a lot more manegable than all 3.

 

[Normanmeyers]

UPDATE:

I went ahead and replaced the original CCT with the APE manual unit. That bottom bolt is a pain but it's an allen-head now.

One bit a added adventure: The pin that locates the lower-rear cam chain guide came off with the cover. I realized right away what it was and was able to keep the chain snug. Actually, I think the CCT gave it's last breath and kept things in place.

I ran ran the engine and all is good. Thank you again for all the information.

Norm