Changing Speedometer Instrument Dash Lights on a Gen 1

[donaldb]

Thanks Matt!!!!!!!!!!

I had to replace a bulb that burned out and have been putting it off for months. Decided to jump in this morning and just go for it. Jeff Ashe is rebuilding my forks and rear shock, so while bike is out of commission I decided to go ahead and replaced the front breaks and clean the calipers and tackle replacing all the meter/dash/turn signal lights. This post helped a lot. Thanks again buddy! :clapping:

 

[donaldb]

I'm not sure it's still considered a motorcycle :blink:

I'm tired of working on it........it's time to ride dammit!

 

[RadioHowie]

I'm not sure it's still considered a motorcycle :blink:

....as long as the motor's still in the frame, it's a MOTORcycle.

 

[Ignacio]

I'm not sure it's still considered a motorcycle :blink:

The bike without a nose is VERY demoralizing, but when it goes back on and you can glance down and see your tach or speedo without a looming shadow...it's great.

You're welcome for the advice and pictures.

Ig

 

[xcsp]

Finally got around to removing the gauges to replace the lamps, since I had the bike tore down for tires & forks service, figure might as well go for it. Very straight forward with the help of this thread!

One thing to add is prior to installing the upper fairing, I checked to make sure all the lamps were now working, found that the engine needs to be running for the high-beam indicator to be "on".

 

[wfooshee]

. . . . found that the engine needs to be running for the high-beam indicator to be "on".

That would be because the engine needs to be running for the headlights to be on.

 

[e2b]

I changed my instrument bulbs about two years ago and basically followed most of what everyone did. Replaced the dead ones and the black ones. Most were the always on ones. After that I replaced the tiny bulbs in my 4X4 floor selector with the LED bulbs from this site "https://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Finstrument.html". When I get around to doing it again I will check these out as the ones in the truck work really well.

Ed

 

[deanw]

. . . . found that the engine needs to be running for the high-beam indicator to be "on".

That would be because the engine needs to be running for the headlights to be on.

The engine needs to have been running. Start it up and flip it back off (cut-off switch, leave the key on) lest you gas yourself.

 

[Fred W]

The engine needs to have been running. Start it up and flip it back off (cut-off switch, leave the key on) lest you gas yourself.

Actually, be careful with that. That's a real good way to flood the engine. Better to just open the garage door and let it run for a few minutes.

 

[Carlin' George]

I got replacement bulbs in and installed them last night. I opted to replace the 4 that are the backlights and on all the time...and leave the 5 that are for the status lights alone. At about $3 each....they are not cheap. I also replaced the two turn signal bulbs as they were under $2 each.

What was curious is that even though 3 of the 4 weren't burned out....they had a nice black haze to them.

[pic]

The 5 stats bulbs weren't discolored like this...so my choice of only replacing 4 high use lights seems logical.

The bonus of all this was after I installed the new bulbs and tried the dash in my darkened garage.....the instrument panel just seemed clearer to read.....I'm sure because more photons are making it through the new bulbs.

Now I know I'm super late to the party, but where did you get your bulbs? I've searched Radioshack, Amazon, not much luck out there :/

 

[grommit]

I think I have found a replacement bulbs at a local autoparts store. Those are manufactured by Koito, model 1592 (14V 80mA). Got them for 25 cents each.

-grommit

 

[Ignacio]

Now I know I'm super late to the party, but where did you get your bulbs? I've searched Radioshack, Amazon, not much luck out there :/

Actually, I did a full write-up in this thread!