Clutch Problem

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Another thing to remember is that the 2006-2008 for some reason has a different master/slave than all the other years. The diameter of the pistons are smaller, which results in a tougher pull and less control over the clutch. Both earlier and later models use the same larger diameter Master/Slaves
 
RossKean,
I agree. That aside, I would suggest putting a tiny washer into the recess inside the brass clutch lever bushing, because a washer will last a while, and it is an easy roadside fix. Same basic idea, sure, but an easier, better way.
Easier still to just maintain it better! I guess the point of it all is to show what can go wrong and what to do about it.
No clutch bits changed or adjustments needed on the '07 in 185,000 miles of ownership (other than fluid). Pretty much bullet proof.
 
Another thing to remember is that the 2006-2008 for some reason has a different master/slave than all the other years. The diameter of the pistons are smaller, which results in a tougher pull and less control over the clutch. Both earlier and later models use the same larger diameter Master/Slaves
I had an '07 and currently own a '11. The pull does seem a bit lighter on the 2011 but I never had an issue with clutch control on the '07. Perhaps a matter of being used to it. I think the differences had something to do with the AE being available on those model years.
 
No idea why the 2004/05 and 2009 plus use a different master/slave than the 06-08. Seems like realization of a mistake. I guess I will find out. I swapped a slipper clutch in my 07 last summer and liked the change. Just swapped a 2016 master slave in after looking at the difference.
 
I don’t think adding a piece of tinfoil at the slave pushrod will do anything to increase throw. It’s a hydraulic system and the throw is determined by the piston ratios and clutch lever mechanical design.
Well, not exactly IMO tin foil may not be strong enough for the required effet. It would probably not last. It would be like having a longer throw. Yes, the master only goes to a certain point, but the two are related. If the pin is too long (like adding too much tin or other material), it could/would bottom out, which normally would have some free space. May not be an issue, but something to keep in mind.
 
A bush fix is something to get you home. My interpretation anyway. Another free thing to try is ride it to high rpms in first gear and let it engine brake all the way down. Do that a couple times. Same for second and third. It should separate the plates. If that doesn't work, I'd take the clutch apart piece by piece and have a look. Some guys have been lucky without servicing for years - others, not so much. How do they ride? How do you ride?
 
Good advice. I will try that if we ever get a break in this weather.
Pouring rain now and supposed to turn to snow later. I think we've had more snow in the last two weeks than in the last five years.
 
I finally got a chance to take a look at the clutch.

All of the brass pieces looked good and were tight.

I flushed the old fluid out with new fluid and bled it.

I also ran it up to red line and backed off in the first two gears a few times.

One thing that I discovered, I misunderstood the adjustment wheel on the lever. I had it set on number 5 thinking that held the lever out the furthest and it was the opposite, so I moved it to number 1. Of course I felt pretty stupid for making such a rookie mistake.

I think with the combination of all of the things that I did, it's quite a bit better.

Thanks to everyone for all of the advice and recommendations.
 
Another thing to remember is that the 2006-2008 for some reason has a different master/slave than all the other years. The diameter of the pistons are smaller, which results in a tougher pull and less control over the clutch. Both earlier and later models use the same larger diameter Master/Slaves
I believe that this was done by Yamaha in conjunction with having the auto clutch YCCS system. I recall that some second gen owners would swap out their slave cylinders with one from a first gen to make the engagement more progressive and get lighter lever pull.
 
I believe that this was done by Yamaha in conjunction with having the auto clutch YCCS system. I recall that some second gen owners would swap out their slave cylinders with one from a first gen to make the engagement more progressive and get lighter lever pull.
Don't know about that - this is on A model bikes. Swapping out only the slave doesn't work very well since the master does not push enough fluid volume to release the clutch at the same spot. Works great as a matched set of master/slave. Same sort of issue you have in cars when you swap in disc brakes and keep the original master that was meant for drums.
I initially swapped in a late model slipper clutch, which made the clutch pull easier and then swapped in the late model master and slave, which also made a good sized difference. This is on my 2007.
 
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