Considering another FJR but have some questions

[lacofdfireman]

Sorry guys for RePosting this same topic 2 days later. Reason that I reposted was because when I went back to see if I had any replies to my first topic it wasn't where I posted it. Now I know why. It got moved. Yep I owned an 07. No I don't remember if it had an Electric winshield but do know it was made of plexiglass. haha.. Only owned the FJR for a short time and then drank the ADV Koolaid and went over to the beemer side. Was just trying to get a little info about if the FJR's have changed since I owned mine. At least if they had changed significantly enough that I should be looking at a newer model if there were any upgrade that make it worth it. Don't have a local dealer within 100 miles that has an FJR to look at since I moved away from California. But I will take all your advice and do some research on here before I post anymore stupid questions...

 

[Checkswrecks]

I'd have to look thru photos to see what I even had 6 years ago. There was the 2004 FJR and something else.

First, I'd pass on the RT. I've done a few short hops and always thought it was a pretty bike, but we just rented one for a trip around the lower half of Norway.

If you have memories of the FJR, the engine and mirrors on the RT will drive you nucking futs.

If your wrists need the more upright seating position, the first of the US 2012 Super Teneres are now 2 years old, so they are getting into the $9-10k price range, and a number of folks ride them street only with a bigger windshield. The bike all around has less of the Beemer/KTM/Euro feel, typical of Yamaha, & the Teneres have proven to be truly bullet proof.

With your budget, you ought to easily find a used FJR or C14. Hard to beat the motor and looks. And if you are into LD, the selection & results speak for themselves:

https://www.ironbuttrally.com/IBR/2013/07-12-13.pdf

 

[RiderX]

And "loser" AE have done okay in the big show too DAMHIK

 

[mfpasquin]

First off I have owned a 07 AE model back in 07 and enjoyed the bike but wanted to get into the Adventure Riding club and sold it and bought a 08 BMW GSA. Absolutely loved the GSA but to big for the dirt. Sold that and bought an 04 KTM 950 "S" GO!!!!!! bike and really enjoy it but truth be told I ride 95% street and it's not a great ride in the street. After I ride about 200 miles of slab I feel like I got hit by a Mack truck. I also do some Pro Cycling moto support events and the KTM sucks for riding slow for long periods and going over mountain passes at 10k she doesn't do real well at slower speeds with the carburation. I would say that 90% of the bikes at these events are BMW's and the guys really like them but my biggest problem with the BMW's is the dealer network and prices for service and parts. If those were in line with Yamaha I would probably buy an RT. My budget is gonna be around $9k.
Here are a few of my questions.

Since I haven't owned an FJR since 07 has there been any updates to the Gen 2 since 07? Is there a Gen3?

I don't remember my FJR real well but I do remember I had a problem with my hands going numb on the bars and that it seemed like a common issue. Is it still? is there a fix for it.

I am 6'4 250lbs without gear so what kind of upgrades would I need to have done to make it fit me better?

FJR is at the top of my list right now. I may also consider a C14. Never ridden one so not sure on Ergos for me but would like to try one.

Also I don't remember but do the FJR's have electric windshields?

Google search "2013 FJR". Many great articles & Youtube links.

 

[bgross]

I'd have to look thru photos to see what I even had 6 years ago. There was the 2004 FJR and something else.
First, I'd pass on the RT. I've done a few short hops and always thought it was a pretty bike, but we just rented one for a trip around the lower half of Norway.

[img=[URL="https://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa87/Checkswrecks/2013%20Norway/file_zps33e6baa1.jpg%5D"]https://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa87/Checkswrecks/2013%20Norway/file_zps33e6baa1.jpg][/URL]

If you have memories of the FJR, the engine and mirrors on the RT will drive you nucking futs.

If your wrists need the more upright seating position, the first of the US 2012 Super Teneres are now 2 years old, so they are getting into the $9-10k price range, and a number of folks ride them street only with a bigger windshield. The bike all around has less of the Beemer/KTM/Euro feel, typical of Yamaha, & the Teneres have proven to be truly bullet proof.

With your budget, you ought to easily find a used FJR or C14. Hard to beat the motor and looks. And if you are into LD, the selection & results speak for themselves:

https://www.ironbuttrally.com/IBR/2013/07-12-13.pdf

I see that you bravely endured the Edelweiss trip, even if it was on an RT. = )

We keep dreaming....

Maybe that's what our OP is shooting for: a $500/day trial plan? (Airfare not included)

 

[08FJR4ME]

You may want to start here.

https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/sport/products/modelhome/180/0/home.aspx

Dave

 

[Bounce]

Using the VIEW NEW CONTENT link will list the posts that are new since your last visit regardless of what area in which they "live". You can then quickly see if your thread has responses. Often when something's moved a "bread crumb" type stub of a thread is left being with the subject+MOVED added. Dogpile Friday is a long standing tradition and is a chance for everyone to kid around. Enjoy the dog piles for what they are since they aren't personal.

in 2013 Yamaha released the Gen 3 version of the FJR.

 

[A41Billy]

They made changes to the gen II in 2008. 2013 will exceed your $9k budget. I suggest dowsing yourself in the bin o facts. https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/8660-06-09-bin-o-facts-generation-ii/

 

[lacofdfireman]

So according to what I have read there is really no changes from 08-12 so if that is a fact I will start shopping for a well Farkled 08 and hopefully find something I like for under $8k. I remember I sold my 07AE for around $8500 probably like 5 years ago so I would imagine that I should be able to pick up an 08 for cheaper than that. Mine had a few farkels also but not much. I think I have crossed the C14 off my list because of Fuel Range and a smaller tank at 1 gallon less than the FJR. I talked to a guy and he said that he only would get about 180 miles off a tank on his C14. I am hoping the FJR is well over 200 range with an almost 7 gallon tank...

 

[RPrice]

So according to what I have read there is really no changes from 08-12 so if that is a fact I will start shopping for a well Farkled 08 and hopefully find something I like for under $8k. I remember I sold my 07AE for around $8500 probably like 5 years ago so I would imagine that I should be able to pick up an 08 for cheaper than that. Mine had a few farkels also but not much. I think I have crossed the C14 off my list because of Fuel Range and a smaller tank at 1 gallon less than the FJR. I talked to a guy and he said that he only would get about 180 miles off a tank on his C14. I am hoping the FJR is well over 200 range with an almost 7 gallon tank...

Another reason to cross the C 14 off the list are maintenance issues/costs. For example, changing the spark plugs is a major PIA. I routinely can ride my FJR for 220 miles or so before I seriously start looking for fuel. The range you get from a tank will depend on how aggressively you drive her! Lots of info. on this and other subjects to be found by searching.

Search for a low mileage 2008 - 2010 and you will probably be able to stay within your budget.

Good luck!!

 

[MCRIDER007]

Another reason to cross the C 14 off the list are maintenance issues/costs. For example, changing the spark plugs is a major PIA.

Since I am a C14 owner (6 years, 60K miles) who does all my own maintenance, what issues should I be aware of that would be reason to cross my C14 off the list? Do you have actual experience changing the spark plugs on a C14 or are you just repeating something you heard from someone else who also has never actually worked on a C14?

 

[Bounce]

How about you clear things up? Detail what it takes compared to the FJR. Your post challenges but provides no constructive info to correct any misconceptions that might exist.

 

[RPrice]

Another reason to cross the C 14 off the list are maintenance issues/costs. For example, changing the spark plugs is a major PIA.

Since I am a C14 owner (6 years, 60K miles) who does all my own maintenance, what issues should I be aware of that would be reason to cross my C14 off the list? Do you have actual experience changing the spark plugs on a C14 or are you just repeating something you heard from someone else who also has never actually worked on a C14?

First, I apologize if I've offended you as a proud and enthusiastic C 14 owner. The knowledge I have about the C 14 comes mainly from comments on this forum, some of them your comments about maintenance intervals, such as Factory recommended spark plug and valve check intervals. Like the comments you and others made in this thread: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=123443 Of course, there are many other threads that address these and other topics, but I haven't included them.

In the above thread, comments are made that one really doesn't have to change plugs as often or check the valves as often as Kawasaki recommends. But the reality is that many folks, especially those who want to preserve their warranties and perhaps don't do their own maintenance, will want to stick to Kawasaki's recommendations. I also realize that many don't have the FJR valves checked at the recommended 26k mile intervals either, but they're taking a chance, IMO.

BTW, I do all the maintenance on my FJR, including valve checks, fork rebuilds, tire changes, oil changes, etc., etc.. So I do know what those procedures entail on the FJR. If I had to do valve checks and spark plug changes more frequently on my FJR, it would be a major PITA, again IMO.

So, I guess I would throw it back to you, as the expert. Does it take longer to access and change the plugs on a C 14 compared to an FJR?? How about for the valve checks??

Let us know, and again I certainly did not mean to offend you! I'll be looking forward to your response.

 

[MCRIDER007]

Another reason to cross the C 14 off the list are maintenance issues/costs. For example, changing the spark plugs is a major PIA.

Since I am a C14 owner (6 years, 60K miles) who does all my own maintenance, what issues should I be aware of that would be reason to cross my C14 off the list? Do you have actual experience changing the spark plugs on a C14 or are you just repeating something you heard from someone else who also has never actually worked on a C14?

First, I apologize if I've offended you as a proud and enthusiastic C 14 owner. The knowledge I have about the C 14 comes mainly from comments on this forum, some of them your comments about maintenance intervals, such as Factory recommended spark plug and valve check intervals. Like the comments you and others made in this thread: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=123443 Of course, there are many other threads that address these and other topics, but I haven't included them.

In the above thread, comments are made that one really doesn't have to change plugs as often or check the valves as often as Kawasaki recommends. But the reality is that many folks, especially those who want to preserve their warranties and perhaps don't do their own maintenance, will want to stick to Kawasaki's recommendations. I also realize that many don't have the FJR valves checked at the recommended 26k mile intervals either, but they're taking a chance, IMO.

BTW, I do all the maintenance on my FJR, including valve checks, fork rebuilds, tire changes, oil changes, etc., etc.. So I do know what those procedures entail on the FJR. If I had to do valve checks and spark plug changes more frequently on my FJR, it would be a major PITA, again IMO.

So, I guess I would throw it back to you, as the expert. Does it take longer to access and change the plugs on a C 14 compared to an FJR?? How about for the valve checks??

Let us know, and again I certainly did not mean to offend you! I'll be looking forward to your response.

To clarify, I was not/am not offended by your post but I do get tired of reading about the C14 maintenance issues written by those who have nothing but second or third hand information. If the C14 maintenance issues were actually a deal breaker I certainly would not have bought a second one. All maintenance is a PIA for me and I only do it to save $$$. That being said, I would rather work on the FJR than the C14 but the overall time spent on maintenance is not that different, not more than a couple of hours a year (assuming both are ridden the same miles). The thing I most dislike about working on the C14 is the removal/installation of the interlocking plastic panels and it appears that the GEN3 FJR is going to have similar issues. Its easy to spend a couple of hours on plastics and a second set of hands is really helpful getting the multiple tabs to fit together.

The dreaded valve check requires moving a lot of parts in front of the valve cover on each side but the hardest part for me is dealing with the electrical plugs sitting on top of the valve cover. Once the valve cover is clear, it comes out the right side without any difficulty. Valve clearances are easy to check and removing the cams and CCT is also easy, much easier than on the FJR. I find going in the sides to do the valve clearances a bit awkward, probably because I have always worked on the valves from the top and that is how I am used to doing it but if I did it a lot it probably would not make any difference. Kawasaki calls for a 15K valve check in North America, 24K everywhere else. The drive trains are the same, the 15K interval has something to do with EPA. Like the FJR, there is virtually no change in the clearances after break in but Kawasaki seems to set the clearances very close to the tight limits so about half change shims on the first check. I had 14 valves either at or very close to the tight limit at 17K, exactly the same at 35K, and elected to change all 16 shims to the loose limit. I don't see any reason to check the valves again until 100K. Overall time involved for someone who knows what they are doing....about 2 hours more than a FJR.

Spark plugs obviously are very easy to change when you do the valve check. Kawasaki calls for a 7500 mile change which is a conservative estimate based on an assumption that the engine is run at red line 100 percent of the time. They are iridium plugs each with its own coil (so they do not fire on every cycle like the FJR) and should easily last 30K, a lot of C14 owners are leaving them in a lot longer. I think its possible to change the plugs by removing the right side panel and going in the right side and leaving the electrical plugs in place....which would probably be a 2 hour job. I'll find out when I get to 65K.

Changing the air filter and radiator fluid requires removing the dreaded plastic but is very easy afterward. Other maintenance (oil, filter, brake fluid, final drive) is the same as the FJR. Changing the fork oil is more difficult since the C14 has an inverted fork but the advantages of an inverted fork far out way the need for some kind of spring compressor.

I currently am at 46K miles and riding the C14 15-17K a year. I need to remove the plastic this winter to change the radiator fluid and will change the air filter at the same time. The following year I will replace the spark plugs and the air filter and the year after that the air filter. After that season the C14 will be 6 years old and have around 100K miles and it will probably become a backup bike (which is what my FJR currently is being used for). If I buy another C14 it will be very easy to transfer the ZX-14 forks, Penske shock, and Lamm seat to the new bike.

The biggest difference between the C14 and the FJR maintenance is what has to be removed to get to the valve cover and where its located. Yes, it takes a couple of extra hours but gets easier each time. I don't look forward to working on the C14 but I don't look forward to working on the FJR either. The C14 has a stronger, smoother engine than the FJR but the difference isn't great enough to be effect a purchase decision, same goes for the maintenance requirements.

 

[RPrice]

MCRIDER07,

Thanks for your very complete response, and synopsis of the different time requirements and intervals for maintenance of the C 14 and the FJR.. Yes, I certainly agree with your observation, "All maintenance is a PIA for me and I only do it to save $$$."

That's exactly the same for me! Heck, I couldn't afford to own the darn thing if I had to pay shop fees!!!!

So , with that being said, I'm off, back out to the garage to complete my FJR oil change!!

Thanks again for your response.

 

[lacofdfireman]

Does $7500 seem like a fair price for an 08 with 12k miles. Bike is basically bone stock. He has a touring windshield is the only extra...

 

[RPrice]

Does $7500 seem like a fair price for an 08 with 12k miles. Bike is basically bone stock. He has a touring windshield is the only extra...

Looking around on the internet, that seems like low average asking price for an 08.

 

[lacofdfireman]

Someone somewhere and I think it was on the FJR forum posted up a link to the Ironbutt winners bikes and the FJR was the most represented bike in the top 10. Anyone know where that list is? I have been searching and can't find it..

 

[MCRIDER007]

Someone somewhere and I think it was on the FJR forum posted up a link to the Ironbutt winners bikes and the FJR was the most represented bike in the top 10. Anyone know where that list is? I have been searching and can't find it..

FJR's were the ride of choice of 5 of the top 6 riders in the 2013 IBR. The list is at the bottom of this site.

https://www.ironbuttrally.com/IBR/2013/07-12-13.pdf

 

[lacofdfireman]

Well like it or not I just put a deposit down on an 08 FJR. And yep another AE model. I liked the first one and will hopefully feel the same about this one.... One thing about it though is it comes with an Ohlins rear shock with remote reservoir and GP front suspension. Problem though is the suspension is set up for a 185lb rider that I am purchasing it from and I am 250 on a good day. Does this mean I will have to completely redo the suspension or is there an easier and cheaper way out of this?