Cromeit left side heat fix

[MrT]

Everyone's favorite topic, again! I've done the homework and begun the search for 1/16-inch aluminum. Two burning (no pun intended) questions remain:

1) Does the Cromeit heat mod posted in September 2003 fit the 2005 FJR 1300T?

2) Now that some of you have been using the modification for 2-1/2 years, have there been any downsides? After all, redirecting all that air must have some effect on the engine, even if just in a localized area.

And finally, HAPPY ST. PATRICK'S DAY!

 

[raclow]

HAPPY ST. PATRICK'S DAY to you and ALL!!! Try not to get too GREEN.

 

[Bike Effects]

1. All the FJRs are the same through 2005.

2. No effect at all. You will forget it is there and you can't see it.

In the drawing for the metal plate to be bent, it shows the bend lines 1.25" apart. Take this to mean that after bending the metal part, it can not be more than 1.25" max. If it is, it won't fit where it needs to go.

 

[exskibum]

Where does one find this "Cromeit heat mod" and its accompanying diagrams? Doesn't show up on a search of this site for me. Another forum or google?

 

[jestal]

You are really over-sweating the details, here. Any sort of aluminum sheet will work fine. Try your local gutter shop...LOL. I made my filler panel out of a small piece of aluminum gutter material. Just 8 inches of gutter scrap is plenty to cut the piece out of one side. Easy to cut and bent and works fine. The thickness of the material is not really significant as long as it has sufficient stiffness to hold itself up. Places like Lowes and Home Depot always have a small selection of raw steel and aluminum bars and sheets so that is another resource.

 

[tripletango]

You are really over-sweating the details, here. Any sort of aluminum sheet will work fine. Try your local gutter shop...LOL. I made my filler panel out of a small piece of aluminum gutter material. Just 8 inches of gutter scrap is plenty to cut the piece out of one side. Easy to cut and bent and works fine. The thickness of the material is not really significant as long as it has sufficient stiffness to hold itself up. Places like Lowes and Home Depot always have a small selection of raw steel and aluminum bars and sheets so that is another resource.

Plenty of small sheets at Lowes!

 

[Timbo2015]

I started to do this mod. After quite a bit of time trying to get the aluminum piece so it would fit accurately with no gaps, I decided it was a waste of time. Instead I got a chuck of foam for a few dollars, cut it a bit oversized with a utility knife, and stuffed it in the hole. Done. It has been there for about 10,000 imiles with no problems, and it really helped with the heat.

I carried this a bit further, as there are numerous places where hot air came from on both the left and right sides. When I rode, I felt with my hand where the hot air was coming from, then stuffed the hole with foam. I am quite happy with the result.

 

[madmike2]

@ Rich, using the search feature, type in "etz" in the author's box. It should come up wo a thread titled "heat fix-information, heat fix-information". In etz's post, he has 4 links that should give you all the information you are looking for.

 

[MrT]

In the drawing for the metal plate to be bent, it shows the bend lines 1.25" apart. Take this to mean that after bending the metal part, it can not be more than 1.25" max. If it is, it won't fit where it needs to go.

Thanks for that important tip Bike Effects -- got your message before my fabrication process started.

Where does one find this "Cromeit heat mod" and its accompanying diagrams? Doesn't show up on a search of this site for me. Another forum or google?

exskibum -- Here's the direct link to the Cromeit left side heat fix:

https://www.fjrowners.ws/forum/messages/6/10176.html

You are really over-sweating the details, here. Any sort of aluminum sheet will work fine.

Thanks Jestal for that information. It finally dawned on me to try a local scrap dealer. They had some unpainted highway sign material that they sold for 60-cents a pound. It's probably 1/16" or maybe even 3/32" thick -- definitely on the heavy duty side! After two fabrications of the piece this afternoon, hopefully it is correct and will fit. Don't even ask about the first time :dribble:

For anyone cutting material that thick, I found a variable speed jig saw with a metal cutting blade (labeled for thicker metal than the fine toothed one) worked great. The first fabrication involved cutting with a reciprocating saw (read: SAWZ ALL) and even though it was more thrilling cutting it that way, the jig saw is the trick. In both cases, I clamped the aluminum piece to the edge of the work bench. Even with safety goggles i envisioned a deja vu trip to the eye doc for metal removal. :blink:

The downside of this "industrial weight" aluminum comes when you bend it. Getting it bent about halfway isn't that difficult, but the closer the edges come together the trickier it gets. A rubber mallet and bench vice worked well if the piece was repositioned often, while beating it like a caveman. :angry:

Bike Effects reports no ill effects from this modification....any one else want to tell us how many trouble-free miles they have logged following this fix??

It's still struggling to get out of the 30's and 40's in Pennsylvania, so I might leave the heat on a bit longer.

 

[tripletango]

My mod has been in for 15,000 miles no problems. let it be said I have done all the mods even tried those ugly hot wing fairing extenders. Nothing really changes the problem that much. The bike is still very hot in temps over 85 degrees ambient. You cannot really change the basic flow designed into the bike.

What I have found is that the screen makes a bigger difference than any other mod.

I have a rifle with the billet that moves the base of the screen out.

You can adjust the position to vent the heat in a more upward direction taking the flow off your thighs and legs. You still get hot but the heat is more evenly distributed!

Basically the 06 has solved the problem with a completely different cooling flow pattern through the bike and in my discussions with the tech rep at daytona the claim was made that the heat problem had been improved by "200%". Airflow under the tank is now improved as is the flow across the pipes (about 90% of the problem on the 05 in my opinion) now vented under the bike. The radiator air now moves more efficiently through the fairing vents and out under the bike.

There are many other flow modifications on the 06 which contribute to much more comfort for the rider.

 

[Pappy]

I did the fix verbatim and would report mixed results.

First, I noticed the coolant temperature runs one-bar higher at anything other than highway speeds. I suspected this was due to trimming the inner fairing so I bought and installed a new one and we'll see how tht thanges things. I think some of the temerature increase I noticed was due to that. I also think that blocking the exit flow on the left side would effect that also but we'll see when it starts getting hot.

Second, after the fix, it definately improved the overall heat problem, especially the leg roasting but it didn't do sheiss for the seat heat. That' my one remaining complaint - once the seat gets hot, it stays hot.

I remember someone posting here how they had used some vacuum cleaner parts to provide flow under the tank. I think that really is the ultimate solution for my remaining issue.

For now, I just ride it. I take the stuff out in the winter - heat = goodness.

 

[tripletango]

I did the fix verbatim and would report mixed results.
First, I noticed the coolant temperature runs one-bar higher at anything other than highway speeds. I suspected this was due to trimming the inner fairing so I bought and installed a new one and we'll see how tht thanges things. I think some of the temerature increase I noticed was due to that. I also think that blocking the exit flow on the left side would effect that also but we'll see when it starts getting hot.

Second, after the fix, it definately improved the overall heat problem, especially the leg roasting but it didn't do sheiss for the seat heat. That' my one remaining complaint - once the seat gets hot, it stays hot.

I remember someone posting here how they had used some vacuum cleaner parts to provide flow under the tank. I think that really is the ultimate solution for my remaining issue.

For now, I just ride it. I take the stuff out in the winter - heat = goodness.

Try keeping the tank full as much as possible. As the fuel level decreases more heat from the return gas from the injector pump is noticeable. Think that's why the gas in the tank gets hot.

 

[MrT]

It will be interesting to get reports and see photos of the way Yamaha handled the heat with the `06 design. My hands were too cold today to worry about much else. Heated grips are in the near future. It would be nice to have shields over your the levers and handgrips to block the major wind -- like MX bikes -- or cutout chlorox bottles painted blue? Fashioned out of aluminum perhaps?? :blink:

My Harley neighbor is paranoid about this heat fix, and I tried to assure him many have tried it and no one has seized an engine or reported any resulting damage.

 

[BrunDog]

I don't get it. I live in the very hot and very humid Florida, and the only mod I did was stuff foam under the tank around the crotch area. My knees get a little warm due to the heat passing through the space between the frame and the fairing along the shin line. My next move is to foam that interface and I am confident my heat concerns, which are minimal to start with, are ovah!

-BD

 

[tripletango]

It will be interesting to get reports and see photos of the way Yamaha handled the heat with the `06 design. My hands were too cold today to worry about much else. Heated grips are in the near future. It would be nice to have shields over your the levers and handgrips to block the major wind -- like MX bikes -- or cutout chlorox bottles painted blue? Fashioned out of aluminum perhaps?? :blink:
My Harley neighbor is paranoid about this heat fix, and I tried to assure him many have tried it and no one has seized an engine or reported any resulting damage.

There is absolutely nothing to worry about. My FJR runs with 2 bars and will only go to 4 bars in traffic. It never overheats ever. I have done all the heat fixes!

 

[Pappy]

I should have added that though I reported is runs hotter on the gage, it never goes past four bars. Ever. It just went from consistently running two bars to three.

 

[MrT]

I don't get it. I live in the very hot and very humid Florida, and the only mod I did was stuff foam under the tank around the crotch area. My knees get a little warm due to the heat passing through the space between the frame and the fairing along the shin line.

BrunDog -- Living in those warm, sunny climes as probably gotten you used to the feeling of heat more than us Yanks who hibernate our bikes for 1/3 of each year. Or maybe some people feel heat more, after all they say some people sense pain more than others.

My mod has been in for 15,000 miles no problems.

Thanks for that report tripletango and your other remarks. Hope we hear more reports from "heat fix veterans." And yes, even the stock windscreen up or down does seem to affect that left leg heat.

 

[kaitsdad]

It would be nice to have shields over your the levers and handgrips to block the major wind -- like MX bikes -- or cutout chlorox bottles painted blue? Fashioned out of aluminum perhaps??  :blink:

Yo, MrT -

Check this out - FJR Tech.com hand guards

And while you're there, check out the rest of the site -

 

[girevikdavid]

I have an 05 and am severely fabrication challeged (that's being kind) - anyone who has successfully made one of the left side gizmos willing to fab one for me? Approximate charge?

Thanks guys,

David

BTW, just put my new V-Stream screen on yesterday - Cool beans!!!!