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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
Epic fail. - Need to pull the head -
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<blockquote data-quote="Aasland" data-source="post: 1137629" data-attributes="member: 14773"><p>I ran a season with the INTAKE cam off by a tooth. No bent valves; but it ran a bit rough at higher RPMs and was down on power.</p><p></p><p>Did you turn the engine by hand after buttoning up / before starting? I'm curious if the valve interference would have been obvious at that point.</p><p></p><p>As for pulling the head .. I think it is possible. You'll need a pretty long and thin allen key to get the right side bolts off, and you may have to disconnect the left side wiring harness to get at the bolts there.</p><p></p><p>You'll have to remove the radiator, headers and throttle bodies to get the head off. Those are the biggest PITA's to get off; getting the out after that isn't too bad - you'll have to remove the rear wheel and shaft, engine mounts, support the engine then lift the frame enough to slide the engine out. The additional work to get it out where it's easy to work may well be worth it.</p><p></p><p>From my own experience: since the head gasket and bolts are not reuseable and will run you $80+s/h, after you have cleaned up / repaired the valves, put the head together using the OLD gasket and bolts (don't tighten them all the way) and do a leakdown test. If all is OK, then reassemble with the new gasket/bolts. It's a bunch of extra work, but at $80/pop it'll save you some $$.</p><p></p><p>Good luck ...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Aasland, post: 1137629, member: 14773"] I ran a season with the INTAKE cam off by a tooth. No bent valves; but it ran a bit rough at higher RPMs and was down on power. Did you turn the engine by hand after buttoning up / before starting? I'm curious if the valve interference would have been obvious at that point. As for pulling the head .. I think it is possible. You'll need a pretty long and thin allen key to get the right side bolts off, and you may have to disconnect the left side wiring harness to get at the bolts there. You'll have to remove the radiator, headers and throttle bodies to get the head off. Those are the biggest PITA's to get off; getting the out after that isn't too bad - you'll have to remove the rear wheel and shaft, engine mounts, support the engine then lift the frame enough to slide the engine out. The additional work to get it out where it's easy to work may well be worth it. From my own experience: since the head gasket and bolts are not reuseable and will run you $80+s/h, after you have cleaned up / repaired the valves, put the head together using the OLD gasket and bolts (don't tighten them all the way) and do a leakdown test. If all is OK, then reassemble with the new gasket/bolts. It's a bunch of extra work, but at $80/pop it'll save you some $$. Good luck ... [/QUOTE]
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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
Epic fail. - Need to pull the head -
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