Final Gear Oil Change

[Carl]

I've been searching this and other forums for any kind of description of the process, but I've come up empty. Is this one of those procedures that's just so bone-head simple that no one's bothered to document it or is it some closely guarded secret?

Thanks in Advance!

 

[twowheelnut]

this one of those procedures that's just so bone-head simple that no one's bothered to document it

Ding, ding, ding, ding! We have a winner!

 

[sparky3008]

I got the answer to one of my questions as "righty tighty, lefty loosy" and that is about all there is.

Bottom bolt oil comes out, Top filler cap is where the oil goes in.

Don't attempt to do it reverse and think you need to flip the bike upside down this is only necessary in Australia

Get something to accurately measure the oil as the container the oil comes in can be used for a couple of times...

Some may just use the filler cap hole as a gauge. I have read that it should be up to the threads, I am little more anal than that.

 

[Ignacio]

And don't forget to get the same crush washer as changing the engine oil. It's been crushed and disposable. Need a new one. I think it was 29 or 30 ft. lbs. torque.

 

[sparky3008]

True that. My parts guy said I didn't need one but when I got home the first time :angry:

I reused the old one and it works fine but next time will get replaced...

 

[markjenn]

Crush washers are one of those things that are supposed to be replaced, but seldom are. Most shops don't replace them. They VERY seldom leak after reuse and if they do, the leak is typically very minor. So while it's a good idea, it's not generally a show-stopper.

- Mark

 

[cuemungous]

I always torqued mine to no more than 20 ft lb and never had any issue with it. Maybe just lucky???

Cue

 

[GunMD]

So while it's a good idea, it's not generally a show-stopper.

But since they're all of 50 cents each, you really can't go wrong. Buy a gross of them from FJRGoodies.com and you're set for life.

 

[smthng]

Erm... I think it actually tells you how to do it in the owners manual.

 

[nusman68]

I like torquing down all bolts to factory specs like most people, but after reading about a few guys strip threads on the drain bolts, (with factory torque) I simply put on a *new* crush washer, and tighten it up until I feel it 'give'. Job done, no leaks; I believe it was Radman that first voiced the opinion about getting a little 'torque-wrench happy' on such a simple job.....

 

[Carl]

I finished the job, but didn't buy crush washers for it. I didn't realize that it would need new crush washers until I had the plugs out. Ah well -- I'll get those replaced ASAP and in the meantime keep an eye out for leaks.

Thanks for the tips. If there's one I may add, it's best to slowly rotate the rear wheel while you're filling the reservoir. That way, the mechanism gets nicely lubed while you're filling it.

 

[sparky3008]

Wouldn't worry too much about the crush washer. Not that they don't matter but I have more than once used them a few times with no problems. Next oil change comes pretty quick I would just do it then...