FJRF009.3 "Spider failures other than S4" Research

[RossKean]

my front brake lever does not return all the way and it leaves the tail light on.

Brake light on could be the front brake lever but a sticky pivot on the rear brake is more likely.  Should be maintained at least annually - disassemble, clean, grease and reassemble.

Do shifter linkage, front brake lever and clutch lever at the same time.  Make sure you clean/lube the brass bushing in the clutch lever.

 

[mcatrophy]

Thanks guys. I am out of town next week but as soon as I get back I will inspect and repair as necessary. I plan on setting the throttle body’s and my front brake lever does not return all the way and it leaves the tail light on. It pivots fine. I just installed a handle bar lift and I think the front brake needs some bleeding. 

I don't think bleeding will make any difference, the brake light switch is a mechanical one directly operated by the  brake lever. As RossKean said above, the rear brake lever pivot is a well-known cause of the rear light hanging on.

 

[rbentnail]

https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/lube.html

 

[[email protected]]

Actually it is the front lever. The back is fine. The front master pin is not pushing the pin into the concave area on the front lever far enough to accurate the switch off. I may have to rebuild the front master. 

 

[[email protected]]

Update. All my spiders where in perfect shape and corrosion free. 

 

[Braapman]

What you can do is to solder a wire to the S4 cap and run it to the battery negative terminal - that's how my bike is wired and has been for 2 years now, since Yamaha can't seem to find the time to send my dealer a harness . . . . . which, if you think about it is a hoot. However they DID mail me a reminder letter.

Thank you Bramfrank. Not sure why you got the boot & this thread is very dated but I've just picked up an 2006 FJR1300AE & it's exhibiting problems that seem related to the S4 Spider ground recall issue.

After reading the posts on it I'd rather make a simple fix as described in quote & hope it resolves the issue.

I hate wonky intermittent, electrical issues. The first 1000 miles of riding after I picked it up last month were sublime but now the symptoms seem prolonged and are growing more frequent. When she is running right it's a joy but when she starts cutting I wonder if she can get out of her own way!! Stay on the throttle and the problem finally goes away.

Any guidance out there as to where S4 connector is located? Can't even find it in the service manual.

 

[mcatrophy]

Any guidance out there as to where S4 connector is located? Can't even find it in the service manual.

Under the tank, front left (click on image for larger view).

 

[BigOgre]

[Just flipped back through this thread.  Nice to see and read from some long ago names.]

 

[Braapman]

Under the tank, front left (click on image for larger view).

Thanks so much Mcatrophy!

Any idea if allowing the dealer to replace the sub-harness is a preferred option. They are totally willing to do the service recall and I'm looking for the best possible fix. Any thoughts or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mcatrophy]

Thanks so much Mcatrophy!

Any idea if allowing the dealer to replace the sub-harness is a preferred option. They are totally willing to do the service recall and I'm looking for the best possible fix. Any thoughts or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Firstly, I've never suffered from this problem, so my opinion is based on others' experiences.

I think that having the dealer replace the sub-harness is a good thing to do, it will prevent the most common problem with these ground connectors.

Obviously from this thread title there are several other connectors that can give problems, but less often than S4. I would suggest a trawl through this whole thread will give you a better idea of where you want to go.

In my opinion, if you are suffering issues that can be tied to these, removing the connectors and soldering the ends of the wires together will effect a cure, but not easy as some have very little free wire, some are difficult to access.

Some people suggest running an extra ground wire round them and back to the battery negative, my personal opinion is that this is unnecessary, the loom behaves perfectly well apart from corrosion in the connectors, eliminate this and you eliminate the problems. 

 

[rbentnail]

Thanks so much Mcatrophy!

Any idea if allowing the dealer to replace the sub-harness is a preferred option. They are totally willing to do the service recall and I'm looking for the best possible fix. Any thoughts or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

I had 2 different dealerships screw up and break things on my bike so here's my preferred option -> https://www.fjrowners.com/threads/the-ground-spider-comes-home-to-roost.120578/#post-909154

 

[Braapman]

Firstly, I've never suffered from this problem, so my opinion is based on others' experiences.

I think that having the dealer replace the sub-harness is a good thing to do, it will prevent the most common problem with these ground connectors.

Obviously from this thread title there are several other connectors that can give problems, but less often than S4. I would suggest a trawl through this whole thread will give you a better idea of where you want to go.

In my opinion, if you are suffering issues that can be tied to these, removing the connectors and soldering the ends of the wires together will effect a cure, but not easy as some have very little free wire, some are difficult to access.

Some people suggest running an extra ground wire round them and back to the battery negative, my personal opinion is that this is unnecessary, the loom behaves perfectly well apart from corrosion in the connectors, eliminate this and you eliminate the problems. 

 

[Braapman]

Copy that.

Extra time for me is a thing of the past so I'm all about tasking someone else to do this.

Especially if it's covered under a warranty recall.