Flushmount Weatherproof on/off switch

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CopB8

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Yes and no.

Not for the intercom functions, that is just run always open in full duplex.

But I do have PTT switches for the Bike to Bike (FRS/GMRS) radios whenever I use them.

That was a whole 'nother thing that had to be worked out. :rolleyes:
Ok, good, I don't have any friends so I don't need to worry about the bike-to-bike part. :biggrinsmiley:

 

Fred W

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Yes and no.

Not for the intercom functions, that is just run always open in full duplex.

But I do have PTT switches for the Bike to Bike (FRS/GMRS) radios whenever I use them.

That was a whole 'nother thing that had to be worked out. :rolleyes:
Ok, good, I don't have any friends so I don't need to worry about the bike-to-bike part. :biggrinsmiley:
Well, if you keep hangin' around here that situation is bound to change. And b'fore you know it you'll be hookin' up for group rides with other folks with B2B's, and, well... you get the picture. ;)

 

CopB8

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UNCLE!!!

Well, yesterday was our test and tune day for the Starcom. I bought the Howard Leight 33dBa earplugs, packed a flashlight, screw driver, and the wife on the bike and headed to a (somewhat) deserted stretch of road in our area. When we arrived there I'd already turned VOX completely off and set the volume at the 1/4 mark. both mics were set to low sensitivity and the balance was centered. I'd repositioned the helmet mics to be directly in front of the lips and as high inside the helmet as possible.

We did about a dozen moderate to high speed runs (70-110). One direction with the wind, which was blowing at about 20mph, the other against the wind. Each loop I'd make an adjustment. First we did volume adjustments, and then mic sensitivity adjustments. Basically when it was all said and done at 70 it was good, at 80 it was ok, at 90+ with the wind it was marginal, at 90+ against the wind it was horrific.

All this brings me back to my original thought of installing an on-off switch. When we're boogeying I'll be able to turn it off without disconnect the helments, when cruising it'll just be a click away.

Thanks for everyone's help and input. If anyone finds the perfect solution let me know.

We use helmet headsets with permanently mounted speakers in microphones. No earplugs.

We have the Advance Unit.

The VOX is on and I'm not sure about the 'side tone' feature. Hate to admit it but I'm not even sure what that is. I'll check.
OK, one problem is the VOX. It sucks on the Starcom1 advance and it really makes life miserable because it keeps cutting any background noise or music on and off. Try turning that off completely. You accomplish that just by adjusting the VOX control knob CCW to the minimum setting.

Sidetone is the feature that allows you to hear yourself in your own ear speakers when you speak. It also allows you to hear any wind noise that your own microphone picks up, as well as your pillion's. It is enabled or disabled via the dip switches inside the starcom1 advance case. You'll have to slide the circuit board out of the case to get at them. The default is off, so if you've never played with them it should already be off. There is a separate VOX disable switch for the sidetone, also a dip switch, also factory defaults to off.

Next issue is going to be that you aren't wearing any earplugs, so the wind noise inside of your helmets (even without the starcom1) is approaching the hearing damaging threshold. You probably have to have the volume control set relatively high just to hear each other over the helmet wind noise. I know that this may seem counter-intuitive, but when you wear a good set of earplugs you can actually hear the intercom (and any other sounds coming through the Starcom) much better over the helemt wind noise. By attenuating all of the low frequency wind noise your hearing will better be able to perceive the higher frequencies of voices and music. I know wearing earplugs is a PITA, but it really does work that way. You might want to give that a try.

We wear the maximum available attenuating foam earplugs religiously (Howard Leight Max 33dBa). I have my starcom1 volume set to the half way mark, and I can easily carry on a conversation with my passenger at any speed, even with the music playing. With the VOX turned off the music, GPS or phone call just keeps right on playing and you hear the passenger intercom right over it.

Nearly forgot one more important setting: Microphone sensitivity. Setting it to mid scale usually works best. The microphones each have an automatic gain circuit that reduces the volume of anything that is picked up until it reaches a certain threshold. Think of this like a squelch control on a CB radio. Increasing the sensitivity actually lowers the squelch threshold, so if the sensitivity is set too high the mikes will unsquelched all the time and you'll hear a lot of wind noise.

If you are still hearing a lot of wind noise all of the time from your passenger, try lowering the passenger mike sensitivity. When you lower the sensitivty too much when your passenger speaks you won't be able to hear them very well as it will stay squelched. Also need to adjust the driver's sensitivity based on how much noise your passenger is hearing from you.

Which reminds me... make sure that your microphones are located properly, out of any wind flow, etc. other wise you might not be able to find a point in the sensitivity where her voice will unsquelch the AGC, but the wind noise will not.

Good luck on making it all work.

The reason I am still using a Starcom and not some fancy bluetooth headsets is that there are still (and probably always will be) issues with all bluetooth intercoms. For one thing, bluetooth is completely priority based and will not mix sounds from the various connected devices. So, as an example, if I want to talk to my passenger I won't hear the GPS. Or if you manage to get a radar detector paired to your headset and the thing starts beeping, you won't hear the other sounds.

>>>> Correction!! Thanks to Niehart for pointing this out to me.

There has been some breakthrough changes in how the Sena SMH10 operates on it's latest 4.0 firmware update. It appears that these headsets can now pair to multiple devices and mix the audio to some extent. This could be a big game changer IMO. Now I need to go off and do some studying on these new changes.

Here's a link
 

Fred W

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I guess that we do not travel over 90 mph two up all that much. :rolleyes:

Seems like you are right. A PTT of some kind would be the way to go. But I do not know of a way to implement one in the Starcom1's intercom function.

Good luck with it, and let us know if you find something that you find useful.

 

UselessPickles

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I like this button:

Google "latching vandal switch". Lots of options for the color of the LED.
I like that button as well. I'm assuming it's completely weatherproof.

So, can it be wired so that one-click turns it on (closed), and another click turn it off (open)? Would I just be able to run my existing Starcom power lead to one pin and then another wire from another pin on the switch to my power block?
The one I bought claimed to be waterproof, and I haven't had any problems with the button riding in the rain or parked out in the rain.

Yes, each press changes the state of the button (that's the "latching" part of the description), so you can use it as a power switch. It's up to you to wire up the LED however you want it (always on when ignition is on, only on when the switch is in one position, etc).

Check the amp/watt ratings on the button and compare to the max amp/watt draw ratings of the device you want it to switch on/off. If the device exceeds the ratings of the button, then you'll need to wire up the button to trigger a relay, so that the higher current of the device passes through the relay rather than the button.

 

CopB8

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I like this button:

Google "latching vandal switch". Lots of options for the color of the LED.
I like that button as well. I'm assuming it's completely weatherproof.

So, can it be wired so that one-click turns it on (closed), and another click turn it off (open)? Would I just be able to run my existing Starcom power lead to one pin and then another wire from another pin on the switch to my power block?
The one I bought claimed to be waterproof, and I haven't had any problems with the button riding in the rain or parked out in the rain.

Yes, each press changes the state of the button (that's the "latching" part of the description), so you can use it as a power switch. It's up to you to wire up the LED however you want it (always on when ignition is on, only on when the switch is in one position, etc).

Check the amp/watt ratings on the button and compare to the max amp/watt draw ratings of the device you want it to switch on/off. If the device exceeds the ratings of the button, then you'll need to wire up the button to trigger a relay, so that the higher current of the device passes through the relay rather than the button.
Thanks. I just ordered the switch. We'll see how it goes.

 

UselessPickles

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Don't forget a resister for the LED. You'll blow it up if you wire it directly to 12v (see my thread that I linked in my first post here for some resistor values to consider). Just pick some up at your local Radio Shack.

 

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