Front axel bolt issue

[gregory]

Greetings all,

I am in the process of replacing the front tire and after I removed the tire from the bike, I put the axel bolt back in the forks till the new tire is mounted. As I put the bolt back in, when I got to the right fork (lookin at the bike from the front, so this would be clutch side) I could not pass the bolt through the inside hole (It passes through just fine going from the outside to the inside till it comes to inside portion of the fork (where the ABS sensor sits) then it just stops. I backed the pinch bolts all the way out and still no love. How hard can can I inset a screwdriver to open this up, or should I do that at all?

Thanks!

Greg

 

[RossKean]

Shouldn't have to spread where the pinch bolts are as long as they are loose.  I am guessing that the problem is on the LEFT side (facing the front of the bike).  The shoulder of the axel is hitting the opening on the left.  (I have done this before)  

 

[escapefjrtist]

What RK says ^^^  When you reassemble Greg, make sure the spacers are all accounted for and in the proper positions.

Good luck!

~G

 

[gregory]

Thanks guys, I will check and see when reassembling tomorrow night

 

[Auburn]

also check to make sure the shoulder of the bolt is going in.  If it doesn't, it will appear you have a problem on the other side because it stops just about when the threads are about to go into the fork leg.  Most likely, you need to put your foot under the tire and lift up a little then the bolt should go past the shoulder and in all the way.

 

[RossKean]

also check to make sure the shoulder of the bolt is going in.

That is what I was referring to...

It can also be a bit of a pain to get everything lined up properly on the right side.  Instead of putting my foot under the tire to hold it (I have done that), I find it easier to lower the jack under the pipes so the axel is pretty much at the right height (after the wheel is in place).  Sometimes it seems that two hands and a foot are not enough to get everything lined up and the front fork "nub" in the "notch" in the ABS housing (non-ES bike, Gen II). 

 

[gregory]

Thanks guys, got it back together tonight, there was a little burr that cropped up. Put some fine grit paper to it (barley did anything really) and Bob's you Uncle. 
I think a combination of that and all of the above were working against me.

She is buttoned up and ready to roll.

See ya out there!

Greg

 

[Archer]

Cya at RR

 

[Bugnatr]

Bobs your uncle.   Never heard that one before and had to gts (google that shit). Good one Bradley, need to add it to the book of bugisum's.

 

[escapefjrtist]

What would you do w/o Google, huh 'Bug?

Glad the scoot has a fresh 'tar and is back together Greg!

~G

 

[2005 FJR Scott]

Greetings all,

I am in the process of replacing the front tire and after I removed the tire from the bike, I put the axel bolt back in the forks till the new tire is mounted. As I put the bolt back in, when I got to the right fork (lookin at the bike from the front, so this would be clutch side) I could not pass the bolt through the inside hole (It passes through just fine going from the outside to the inside till it comes to inside portion of the fork (where the ABS sensor sits) then it just stops. I backed the pinch bolts all the way out and still no love. How hard can can I inset a screwdriver to open this up, or should I do that at all?

Thanks!

Greg

What size hex bit are you using to remove the axle? FSM says 18mm but I measured it and it looks closer to 20mm

 

[RossKean]

What size hex bit are you using to remove the axle?

Your Gen I is different...

Gen I, the axle threads into the fork on the other side whereas on Gen II+, there is a bolt that threads into the end of the axle.  Have a look and compare the parts fiche.  For Gen II+, you can back off the bolt, loosen the pinch bolts and use a rubber mallet to gently tap the axle out the other side (no need for a hex bit).  Better yet, remove the bolt and use a wooden dowel to prevent possible damage to threads.  

2005 Yamaha FJR1300ABS (FJR13AT) Front Wheel | Yamaha Sports Plaza

2011 Yamaha FJR1300A (FJR13AAS) Front Wheel | Yamaha Sports Plaza

 

[escapefjrtist]

What size hex bit are you using to remove the axle? FSM says 18mm but I measured it and it looks closer to 20mm

For the GEN II/III/IV a 19mm hex works for the front axle. My Tenere also needs a 19mm hex and uses the same axle as many Yamaha models, including your '05. Check out any of the on-line parts houses to see "related fitment" for 4XV-25181-10-00 and '04 - '05 FJR comes up. Short answer, your '05 uses a 19mm hex too.

I have a combo hex axle tool in my toolbox. Makes short work for tightening the front/rear axles!

~G

 

[2005 FJR Scott]

I have a combo hex axle tool in my toolbox. Makes short work for tightening the front/rear axles!

~G

Thanks! I just ordered the combo hex axle tool. 
 

My FSM says it’s “18mm threads “ and I thought that meant an 18mm tool.

 

[gregory]

Loving that combo hex tool! 

 

[Gitbox]

I have a 3/4" Craftsman spark plug socket which has a hex top that fits the axle perfectly. I just stick a short extension thought the spark plug end. Maybe check your spark plug socket collection. You might get lucky. 

 

[gregory]

The spark plug socket worked on my Gen I & II, but not the III

 

[art miller]

I just ordered a Hex Bit set on Amazon which has 9 bits with highest value 19mm. All for 20.16 delivered. With this there are bits for both front and rear axels.