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Gen2/3 Subframe Stiffy Kit by Garauld

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

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fjRaven

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Gday guys,
I've just finished repairing my subframe for the second time. I highly recommend you use one of these kits if you don't have the Givi 357. I probably would have used one if they were available at the time.

Pete

The broken subframe

P1010616_zpsc31b0fe3.jpg


The repairs, underneath

The repairs, top side
That is a great weld job.... the person who did that knows what he is doing.
photo1-1.jpg


Wanted to get opinions on this, trying to keep busy on a rainy day. Given where the subframe breaks with the topboxes on them. Seems like it's because the frame hangs out of the tire with no support and with the bouncing of the topbox just gives out in the same place most every time. The whole weight of the back section is putting stress on that one part of the subframe. The stiffy kit braces the sides of the frame and holds it up the frame from the top of the back of it. I'm sure it's a quality product and if this doesn't work will be getting one myself.

What about simply supporting it from the bottom so it doesn't bounce and has that extra support? The plastic bottom is hard and won't give much and disperses the weight, If the woods starts to give you can always add a metal plate on top. Just a piece of 2x4 with a couple of shims to fit it in there tight.

Sure there's a technical reason why this isn't a good idea, any thoughts?

MIke

 
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garauld

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IMHO, it's not a solution. The failure is due to repeated torqueing on the weak (relatively) aluminum subframe by the rearward c.g. of the topbox. My steel (stronger) stiffy kit was designed to transfer the torque around the failure area by creating a longer stronger moment arm.

 

fjRaven

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Mechanical engineer I am not, did not think of that but makes sense. Will be ordering one in the near future.

 

NormKern

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photo1-1.jpg


Wanted to get opinions on this, trying to keep busy on a rainy day. Given where the subframe breaks with the topboxes on them. Seems like it's because the frame hangs out of the tire with no support and with the bouncing of the topbox just gives out in the same place most every time. The whole weight of the back section is putting stress on that one part of the subframe. The stiffy kit braces the sides of the frame and holds it up the frame from the top of the back of it. I'm sure it's a quality product and if this doesn't work will be getting one myself.

What about simply supporting it from the bottom so it doesn't bounce and has that extra support? The plastic bottom is hard and won't give much and disperses the weight, If the woods starts to give you can always add a metal plate on top. Just a piece of 2x4 with a couple of shims to fit it in there tight.

Sure there's a technical reason why this isn't a good idea, any thoughts?

MIke
1. Re wood blocks: There is a sticker on my rear fender that says something about a max load for tools etc on it is something like 2 pounds, so the fender cannot support any weight. (Have to look at the label to be sure of the weight limit.) Besides, the fender is supported by the subframe, not the other way around. The wood blocks will not add any strength whatsoever.

2. A broken/rewelded subframe is never as strong as the undamaged subframe, so the best time to get/install the Gerauld stiffy bracket is BEFORE the subframe breaks.

No hurry on the stiffy bracket- just make sure you install one before you mount a topcase.

 

NormKern

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<blockquote class="ipsBlockquote" data-author="fjRaven" data-cid="1137752"><p> <br /> <br /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n551/buckhorn24/photo1-1.jpg" src="https://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n551/buckhorn24/photo1-1.jpg" /><br /> <br /> <br />Wanted to get opinions on this, trying to keep busy on a rainy day. Given where the subframe breaks with the topboxes on them.  Seems like it's because the frame hangs out of the tire with no support and with the bouncing of the topbox just gives out in the same place most every time.  The whole weight of the back section is putting stress on that one part of the subframe.  The stiffy kit braces the sides of the frame and holds it up the frame from the top of the back of it.  I'm sure it's a quality product and if this doesn't work will be getting one myself.<br /> <br />What about simply supporting it from the bottom so it doesn't bounce and has that extra support?  The plastic bottom is hard and won't give much and disperses the weight,  If the woods starts to give you can always add a metal plate on top.  Just a piece of 2x4 with a couple of shims to fit it in there tight. <br /> <br />Sure there's a technical reason why this isn't a good idea, any thoughts?<br />MIke<br /> </p></blockquote><br />1. Re wood blocks: There is a sticker on my rear fender that says something about a max load for tools etc on it is something like 2 pounds, so the fender cannot support any weight. (Have to look at the label to be sure of the weight limit.) Besides, the fender is supported by the subframe, not the other way around. The wood blocks will not add any strength whatsoever.<br /><br />2. A broken/rewelded subframe is never as strong as the undamaged subframe, so the best time to get/install the Gerauld stiffy bracket is BEFORE the subframe breaks.<br /><br />No hurry on the stiffy bracket- just make sure you install one before you mount a topcase.<br /><br /><br />

 

mtnhigh

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I think Gary's rack with back rest I got a few years ago has saved my frame. I am guilty of loading my givi heavy. I think I've pressed my luck enough.

PM in process.

 

dcarver

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mtnhigh

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Received, installed, and impressed! Nice work as always! You can definitely notice the difference.

Thank You sir, for another fine product!
punk.gif


 

striker

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So how much and how do I get one? I just got my FJR in October and I haven't loaded it up yet, but it sounds like this is a must-have and I can't believe that they call it a sport-tourer if it can't take a top case! Now that I think of it, maybe that's why they want to call it a supersport-tourer, because they made it too light to be a real workhorse?

 

gixxerjasen

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I'd imagine a stress test wouldn't yield usable results. Likely it'll hold a LOT of weight. The true question is, how much weight will it carry over a few years of road bumps while rocking back and forth on that point of the frame. For that, I say that 15 pounds in a Shad without the stiffy kit would be over the limit.
biggrin.png


 

A41Billy

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Got my stiffy fitted into the rear. I would gladly pay to do it again! Install went great and the kit is well made. Now no worries on loading it up for trips. Thanks Gary!

 
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