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87Doodle

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please excuse my ignorance,

but what is the advantage to using a fuseblock?

 
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The short simple answer is: You can add separte electrical items with their own individual fuse to blow just to take out that one item should a short or the like occur - or the option of blowing your whole electrical system in a meltdown.

Ionbeam can explain in more detail should you desire.

 
You can always hang about 20 wires off the positive end of the battery......get's kinda crowded, though.

 
In Stage 4 of Farkle Disease you get to the point that you can't fit all the wires you want in a yellow crimp to the battery....or even 6 crimps. Here's a rather grotesque view of one of two barrier strip carcinomas on my FJR. The mass was infiltrated with both 12 and 14 gage wires.

Note the two relay absesses in the clamp?

Unfortunately, this FJR is incurable. :blink:

MW061035b.JPG


 
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a rather grotesque view of....strip carcinomas...two relay absesses...
I notice that the front forks and wheel have putrefied and fallen off, perhaps a bit of Leprosy too?

When you use a fuse box everything goes to a central location making it easier to manage a number of different circuits. When it’s 6 hours after sunset and something goes ffzzztttt and leaves you without heat, supplemental lighting or entertainment you won’t have to remove panels A then B then C then D in the dark to get to the fuses (on Gen I's, like your ‘05). A fuse block like a Blue Sea or terminal strips make for a neater, more orderly install but most importantly it vastly simplifies wire taps for power and ground making it much more reliable. Scotch Locks (blue tacos with teeth inside) suck!

 
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At least you have some of your wires labeled!!! It would be a nightmare for the next owner of your bike to troubleshoot. (or even you)

 
In addition to what's been said, if you power your fuse panel from the battery, you aren't tapping into any of the bike's electrical system directly, thus you are preventing overloading existing circuitry.

 
At least you have some of your wires labeled!!! It would be a nightmare for the next owner of your bike to troubleshoot. (or even you)
Next owner?

I'm planning to ride this thing until the wheels come off! :dribble:

 
ITYM: until the OTHER wheel falls off.

1. it gets all the runs off the battery and somewhere that's easier to manage.

2. it takes it all off the OEM harness to reduce load on marginal wiring.

3. it avoids using taps into the OEM harness that create weaknesses for corrosion and vibration that might cause future problems.

 
One of the great secrets of the forum is that it is not free, it's going to cost you in terms of farkles you never you knew you needed. :) The fuse block will make them easier to install. Resistance is futile, don't bother trying, install the fuse block!

 
It would be very nice if a simple 1 or 2 screw terminal junction block was provided next to the rectifier/regulator for the (+) and (-) R/R outputs. You'd be tapping into the source of all power rather than at the battery.

When you connect accessories to the battery terminals you are using the wiring harness -- the main (+) and (-) bus conductors back to the R/R.

As an alternative to connecting accessories to the negative terminal of the battery one could easily connect to the terminal on the engine crankcase where the battery's large negative lead is connected. The voltage drop through this large negative lead to the battery would be nil. This lead carries essentially zero current except when the starter motor is actuated. This would help reduce the wiring clutter around the battery.

 
You don't want to ground back to the chassis. The FJR's R/R is a shunting type; the alternator puts out max (per RPM) at all times and shunts the excess to the chassis. Any chassis ground item will pick up that shunted power as noise and you'll hear it as alternator hum in your audio stuff while certain items like a PC3 might get a little whacky on you due to the noise. Others have also reported different tested readings of grounding to the front of the chassis compared to ground to places out back.

Run a ground block back to the neg on the battery and you'll avoid any ground loop noises.

I originally ran my ground block to the bolt that holds the R/R in place. When I rerouted the wire back to battery (-) all my audio noise went away slick as snot.

 
I didn't say connect to the chassis. I said connect to the terminal on the engine crankcase where the large negative lead from the battery connects. Electrically speaking this would be equivalent to connecting directly to the negative post of the battery. The engine (or, at least the crankcase) is a valid part of the electrical system. The frame is not. You can complete a bad electrical circuit through the frame because the engine is bolted to the frame at several places. But these are physical connections and not electrical connections.

The starter motor, the neutral switch, and the oil level switch all use the engine crankcase as part of their electrical circuit.

The R/R doesn't shunt any current to the chassis. The shunting is done internally in the R/R. There are only 5 electrical connections to the R/R. The three A/C stator phase leads and the two DC output leads. All shunting means is that the AC stator currents are switched away from the rectifier diodes in the R/R and shorted back to the AC stator windings -- the rectifier diodes are bypassed. But none of this has anything to do with the R/R's physical mounting to the frame. There is no electrical connection between the R/R and the frame.

 
Another advantage that hasn't been listed (unless it was and I glanced over it) is the ability, through the use of a relay, to have your farkles on a switched power source rather than always having them hot (like when you connect it directly to the battery).

 
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