Going to the Dark Side

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Picked up my replacement brake tension bar from powdercoat today. Will be installing along with a set of moto tires this weekend but now I'm ready for darkside should I choose to go that route in the future.
Although I have switched back to moto tires (permanently, I think), I have kept the stainless steel brake arm "just in case". I have gone the car tire route for a total of 40,000 miles or so on two different car tires and was never very happy with the feel. Both times I switched back to a regular bike tire, I breathed a sigh of relief. I gave them (an Exalto and a General Tire) a good shot and played with pressures etc. but they are not worth the loss in riding pleasure (for me) despite the vastly lower operating cost.

 
Although I have switched back to moto tires (permanently, I think), I have kept the stainless steel brake arm "just in case". I have gone the car tire route for a total of 40,000 miles or so on two different car tires and was never very happy with the feel. Both times I switched back to a regular bike tire, I breathed a sigh of relief. I gave them (an Exalto and a General Tire) a good shot and played with pressures etc. but they are not worth the loss in riding pleasure (for me) despite the vastly lower operating cost.
So noted in the FAQ. Thanks for sharing your experience. As always said, it's not for everyone.
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Picked up my replacement brake tension bar from powdercoat today. Will be installing along with a set of moto tires this weekend but now I'm ready for darkside should I choose to go that route in the future.
Although I have switched back to moto tires (permanently, I think), I have kept the stainless steel brake arm "just in case". I have gone the car tire route for a total of 40,000 miles or so on two different car tires and was never very happy with the feel. Both times I switched back to a regular bike tire, I breathed a sigh of relief. I gave them (an Exalto and a General Tire) a good shot and played with pressures etc. but they are not worth the loss in riding pleasure (for me) despite the vastly lower operating cost.
I did it primarily for a backup in case I have an issue during a trip and I am unable to locate a replacement moto tire. However, having killed a set of Pirelli's in under 5k miles...I think a CT might be beneficial. The sides of the tire are still new-ish but the middle is worn down to the wear bars. I do a lot of highway riding and commuting in the North Texas area. Also this summer I'm planning on running in the Tour of Honor rally and I hope to out do last year's number of sites visited. So there will be plenty of trips into other states, many that I've never visited by bike.

 
Clay-motion, Would really like to see your pics of the double darkside bike, surely there is some way to post them here. Maybe some help from one of these tech genius types?
Okay, so I got a photo bucket account - here's a link to some pics: https://s1356.photobucket.com

Never used this before, not sure what works, but I'll try anything once, twice if I like it
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Guess that's why 2 double darks...

 
Far from crash & burn, it is the less than normal moto tire drama I'm enjoying!

I put on CT 2 years (10K+ miles... 1/2 my normal rate, benefit of working from home a lot more) ago and no puncture since then (and a puncture flat on the highway averaging once per year for 3 years before that. I was recently talking to others having similar or higher puncture rates in CA urban highway riding). I have a spare set of wheels/moto tires, but I've only been using the FJR for commuting/lane-splitting duty, so haven't even thought of putting on moto rear tire.

The only drama I've had, now at ~82K+ miles on the '08 FJR is that both low-beams recently went out (first time to replace, though I'm on at least my 3rd battery). Oh, and on a minor note at last major service last summer had the swingarm bearings and rear shock replaced (shock replaced due to leaking which started before CT install, so can't blame that, though I'm sure it didn't help)

 
I`ve got a car tire, General I think, and a brake arm on the shelf in my garage if anyone needs one going through on I-90. Tire has about 10,000 miles on it, can not tell it has been used. Also have a tire machine and balancer.

 
I got a PM from a friend that I met last summer at NAFO in Montrose Colorado asking me about my car tire, he's thinking about giving it a try before heading to YFO this June. I figure it's best to post my thoughts here:

NTXFJR wrote:
Hi Brodie,
I hope this finds you well.

... I wonder if I could throw a dark side question your way. I remember you had a c/t on your bike when we met last summer. 17K on my bike now and I'm on the 3rd set of tires. What tire are you using? Any preference for the front as well? I'm looking to throw a set of something on before yfo, which I'm hoping to still make.
Cheers,
Craig

Hi Craig

You asked about the car tire I'm using...

I've run 3 different brands through the years, the first one was the Bridgestone 019 Grid. That was the one that Eric first settled on when he started this crazy experiment. It was a bit stiff, and harsh, but proved that it was quite feasible to run one.

The second brand I ran was the Michelin Pilot EXALTO. My buddy Brian (FJRONAMISSON) came up with that one after trying out my bike shod with the 'Stone. The Exalto was legendary in it's bike like handling and had quite a following before it went out of production. I ran 2 of them and got around 35,000 miles on each of them.

The latest one I run is the General Tire G-Max. Several people run it and are quite happy with it. I'm on my second one and am getting comparable life with them. I typically run 31 PSI out back to allow it to flex it's side walls better with the road.

Any premium tire up front will do just fine, I like to run 44 PSI up front. Currently I'm on a Perelli Angel with good wear patterns. I've also run the Michelin PR2 and PR4 tires too. Note... the PR4 seems to be a noisy tire because of all of those sipes cut across the tread.

If you run a car tire expect to change out the front tire a little earlier because it tends to get scrubbed a bit due to the rear tire's flat-ish cross section. If you normally get 12,000 miles up front, it may be closer to 11,000 miles when mated with the car tire - small price to pay.

The bigger issue you may have is what I call 'The Dance' back there. The tire will tend to right itself square with the road surface. For some people it is unsettling, others like me don't think much of it once we've gotten used to it. It's kind of weird at first, running slowly down a road that has a rough, irregular or patched surface, you will feel every imperfection as it throws you around a bit because of it's squareness catching the edge on a rut. Let it happen, hey it's part of the charm. Run a bit faster and it smooths out quite a bit, although it's still there. High speed sweepers like freeway turns at speed have you constantly pushing on the handlebar to keep it from standing up in the turn - unless you employ a bit of body english. Do this... Move your butt around in anticipation for the turn. The change in ballast helps flex that inner sidewall to pull the bike into the turn. I run no hands quite a bit and it's kinda fun to play like this.

One thing I would strongly suggest... DO NOT mount a your first car tire a week or even a month before a long trip thinking you will grow into liking it the more you ride it. You may, but then again you may regret it not having the absolute crisp handling that this bike is capable of in the twisties. Experiment with the dark side when you have a lot of time on roads quite familiar to you. The nice thing is if you find that it isn't what you want to run, just mount another motorcycle tire and be done with it, don't think you have to live with it until it wears out. You can get a G-Max for for around $130 these days. You may like it, it will wear like iron - yet stick like glue.

Most importantly, enjoy the bike, after all these are supposed to be fun!

Brodie

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Click on these links to learn more about my G-Max choice:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/141913-going-to-the-dark-side/?p=1155441

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/141913-going-to-the-dark-side/?p=1159635


 
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Going to remount the CT I had been using on Old Yeller when I had my incident during the BL8. Towards the end of that rally I was just totally exhausted from that tire and all those twisty mountain roads out west. But I realize that I didn't enter that rally in the greatest of shape and have since rectified that. So I have an upcoming rally next weekend out east and I think it'll be a good indicator on whether or not I'll be using it during the Big Dance. Having to change tires at a checkpoint seems like such a waste of good sleep time.

 
Just started experiencing some rear shock related issues with the car tire mounted. I've got about 17,000 miles on the tire but recently reinstalled it after 6-7000 miles on a m/c tire. I also fiddled with the settings on the rear shock and perhaps induced the issue myself. The problem is some pogoing in some fairly high speed corners that have a bump in the corner. A bit unsettling when it happened on an interstate sweeper at 80 MPH. The shock was set on the hard position and rebound damping was about 5 clicks from max (I think I had the rebound damping a few clcks lighter before). Is there a change that I can make to the shock that would make a significant positive impact?

I suspect I need a new shock since the OEM shock has over 38,000 miles on it. Are there aftermarket shocks that are better suited to Darkside riding? Are some qualities/adjustability more desirable for riding with a car tire? For the first 15,000 miles the OEM shock was doing quite well.

Ideas and comments please.

 
Just started experiencing some rear shock related issues with the car tire mounted. I've got about 17,000 miles on the tire but recently reinstalled it after 6-7000 miles on a m/c tire. I also fiddled with the settings on the rear shock and perhaps induced the issue myself. The problem is some pogoing in some fairly high speed corners that have a bump in the corner. A bit unsettling when it happened on an interstate sweeper at 80 MPH. The shock was set on the hard position and rebound damping was about 5 clicks from max (I think I had the rebound damping a few clcks lighter before). Is there a change that I can make to the shock that would make a significant positive impact?
I suspect I need a new shock since the OEM shock has over 38,000 miles on it. Are there aftermarket shocks that are better suited to Darkside riding? Are some qualities/adjustability more desirable for riding with a car tire? For the first 15,000 miles the OEM shock was doing quite well.

Ideas and comments please.
I was set up with a penske and had no problems. Got it from GP and it was all set up ready to go, so didn't adjust anything. May be that I didn't know any better.

 
Just started experiencing some rear shock related issues with the car tire mounted. I've got about 17,000 miles on the tire but recently reinstalled it after 6-7000 miles on a m/c tire. I also fiddled with the settings on the rear shock and perhaps induced the issue myself. The problem is some pogoing in some fairly high speed corners that have a bump in the corner. A bit unsettling when it happened on an interstate sweeper at 80 MPH. The shock was set on the hard position and rebound damping was about 5 clicks from max (I think I had the rebound damping a few clcks lighter before). Is there a change that I can make to the shock that would make a significant positive impact?
I suspect I need a new shock since the OEM shock has over 38,000 miles on it. Are there aftermarket shocks that are better suited to Darkside riding? Are some qualities/adjustability more desirable for riding with a car tire? For the first 15,000 miles the OEM shock was doing quite well.

Ideas and comments please.
Most aftermarket shocks are more robust than the oem, and usually offer more adjustability. I was running a Wilbers shock when I started this Darkside thread. It was sprung for my weight/load, but still a little light. Typically the oem shocks last a bit longer than 38k, but the heavier unsprung weight of the CT will work the shock more and a worn shock will be more obvious with the heavier CT in place.

Perhaps adding some rebound clicks, a couple at a time, then riding and seeing if the wag diminishes or goes away. To be honest, it's been so long that I don't recall the adjustment features of the oem Yamaha shock, other than the hard/soft lever. I ran a spacer on the oem shock initially, (before car tire use), just because the stock spring was too light for my weight, load and riding style. It was a pretty common thing to do back in the Gen I days. Wag can be simply too light a spring too.

 
I suspect I need a new shock since the OEM shock has over 38,000 miles on it. Are there aftermarket shocks that are better suited to Darkside riding? Are some qualities/adjustability more desirable for riding with a car tire? For the first 15,000 miles the OEM shock was doing quite well.

Ideas and comments please.
I think you have already answered your question. OEM shocks are worn out when they don't have enough rebound damping even on full hard. Since they can't be rebuilt (except by a couple of shock rebuilders that are willing to do it), your options are to buy another OEM shock or pay twice as much for an aftermarket shock that can be built to your weight and use and later rebuilt for a cost of $150-250. I have had 5 aftermarket shocks and have been pleased with every one but if I were in your position I think I would look for a good buy on a GEN3 OEM shock.

 
Pogo tells me that rebound damping is not stiff enough to damp excessive spring motion.

Short term: Crank it up. I'm running it at 1click from full stiff and it does ok for my 54k mile OEM shock.

Long term: The best bang for your buck on these bikes is suspension upgrades - hands down!

Brodie.

🙂

 
Screw it! As in: Before you spend any money on anything, screw the adjuster all the way to hard and see what happens. I doubt you need a new shock at 38k.

 
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