Happy with your "fuse-block" location?

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pista

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Searching this forum I see many of you have mounted the fuseblock in the tail and used tail-light for switched power. Others mount the unit under the seat. Then there is a bunch of you that chose the front cowling and tapped the AWR for switched power.

For ease of installation and access I like the option of mounting my AP-1 under the tail section. Has anyone had problems with the wiring running back and forth under the tank because of heat? Have you mounted one in the back and in retrospect thought maybe up front may have been better? Or vice versa?

When wiring up the fuseblock did you buy the complete ready to go harness? (ie: Eastern Beaver, Centech) Is it worth the trouble making your own using 12g wiring, connectors, and relays?

This is a project slated for TechDay in three weeks and I need to see if I should get an order in to Eastern Beaver ASAP for a wiring harness.

 
Made my own. Power, ground, and several extra leads from battery to under seat fuzeblock. In this way I don't tax the ground spider and gave several switched leads waiting up near the battery for lights, GPS, etc

Routed in the right side of bike near stock wiring. Doesn't seem to get too hot.

 
Under the seat guy here. In a Pelican Case for added moisture protection and general protection from anything.

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Since all my accessories are up front and my Motorman air pump is

under the seat, I put my EB fuse block behind the glove box, attached

to the frame. EB power lead runs behind dash to battery. Relay taps

into headlight wire.

Space under passenger seat contains jumper cables, siphon hose,

a 12V spot light and a first aid kit. No room for fuse block. Besides,

who needs all that extra wiring?

 
Since all my accessories are up front and my Motorman air pump is...under the seat, I put my EB fuse block behind the glove box...
SLK is a wise guy. If the farkles are up front, put the PD up front. The Gen II isn't as Gen-erous with space as the Gen I but still, there is room to put a moderately accessible PD in the nose.

I took a little different tack and used two barrier strips on the front/nose frame, a long one switched and the other a shorter unswitched. That still leaves me the option of putting a third PD or strip in the tail for things like LED flashers, trunk lighting, flasher controllers and such stuff.

I have had no problems running wires from the front, through the frame at the steering neck and back through the motorcycle. I did take a long length of Romex and stripped out one strand of ~14 ga wire that I use as a fish to thread through all the little holes and pull my wiring through with that. I left the insulation on the Romex except for a bit at the end where I hook my farkle wire. The Romex is stiff enough that you can preform it to go around bends and snake through small offset gaps.

I do use a lot of tie wraps to secure my wiring to adjacent harnesses and frame pieces to keep the wires away from heat, chaffing and pinching. Any wire that goes through an unusually hot spot goes in a sheath (that I snake though with the Romex as necessary.

 
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Three different FJRs, 2 under the seat and current one in the tail.

Prefer the current version, only for ease of access and working space. Wiring is a pain to run to the front, but with clever routing along both sides of frame, the installation is tidy and works well. After the original install I've added a few items and with some planning wiring still is tidy.

YMMV

--G

 
Searching this forum I see many of you have mounted the fuseblock in the tail and used tail-light for switched power. Others mount the unit under the seat. Then there is a bunch of you that chose the front cowling and tapped the AWR for switched power.
For ease of installation and access I like the option of mounting my AP-1 under the tail section. Has anyone had problems with the wiring running back and forth under the tank because of heat?
Nope.

Have you mounted one in the back and in retrospect thought maybe up front may have been better? Or vice versa?
Nope. In the tail section. Easy to get to.

When wiring up the fuseblock did you buy the complete ready to go harness? (ie: Eastern Beaver, Centech)
Nope.

Is it worth the trouble making your own using 12g wiring, connectors, and relays?
Not that hard to do, then again I don't have a pre-make harness to compare against.

This is a project slated for TechDay in three weeks and I need to see if I should get an order in to Eastern Beaver ASAP for a wiring harness.
I ended up getting the relay to run off the license plate light, so it is ON when the key is ON. SLK50 used the headlight wire, which will also work, but for the GenII's the lights don't come on until you start the engine.

 
Searching this forum I see many of you have mounted the fuseblock in the tail and used tail-light for switched power. Others mount the unit under the seat. Then there is a bunch of you that chose the front cowling and tapped the AWR for switched power.
For ease of installation and access I like the option of mounting my AP-1 under the tail section. Has anyone had problems with the wiring running back and forth under the tank because of heat? Have you mounted one in the back and in retrospect thought maybe up front may have been better? Or vice versa?

When wiring up the fuseblock did you buy the complete ready to go harness? (ie: Eastern Beaver, Centech) Is it worth the trouble making your own using 12g wiring, connectors, and relays?

This is a project slated for TechDay in three weeks and I need to see if I should get an order in to Eastern Beaver ASAP for a wiring harness.
Like many others,I have my fuse block mounted in the tail section with the tail light for switched power. No problems with wiring going between tank and heat shield. It's been set up this way for three years, and no issues. I did not use a ready to go harness. Hope this helps!

 
I have mine under the seat and still have room for my compressor. That pelican case is nice, but under the seat stays dry. And trust me, I have tested that thoroughly. I had already tapped off the glove box outlet for switched power when I installed my heated grips. I had a relay mounted up front for that. I took that all out when I put the fuseblock in.

 
I have the FuzeBlock under the rear seat and use the tail section for bike to bike radio. Because I have a number of audio sources through the Fuze Block, I have a direct ground to battery (less potential RF). Any automotive primary wire will stand up to the heat under the tank. I use a plastic flex conduit and an inline fuse on the hot supply line, and switch off the tail light power. I have to double up on the GPS and RD circuit as I don't have enough terminals, but that seems to work fine.

 
Eastern Beaver under the seat, wiring to the front along the left side below the tank and over the heat shield. Had the tank and 't-bar' off when I did it so just tedious work making a neat installation.

 
Eastern Beaver under the seat, wiring to the front along the left side below the tank and over the heat shield. Had the tank and 't-bar' off when I did it so just tedious work making a neat installation.
Same here. All EB stuff (received from Japan in 4 days if you're concerned about shipping speed) under the seat along with the PCIII since I don't use the space for anything else. Ran wiring up both side of bike (six circuits used) and have it under the heat shield with no heat issues after 2 years of use. IMO for convenience and ease of access, under the seat and back by the tail are the best spots for most folks. Jim makes great stuff, highly recommended by me and others on this site.

 
I am waiting for some bits & pieces before installing my fuzeblock.

I was surprized to hear about only one user installing it in the front area, where all the action is. I own a Gen III and it does look very crowded in front.

Did any of you find it impossible to fit it anywhere in front on a Gen III ?

...Ben...

 
My CenTech AP-1 is under the tail - obviously easy to access. I originally had hoped to put it on the fairing side of the battery on the '14 but it just won't quite fit. Close, but no cigar. So in that area is my 12-volt relay since the headlight relay is in that area as well - so bike RUNNING powers the relay, which powers the AP-1.

So far so good. Works for me.

Kevin

 

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