hard start and engine dies

[droptail]

Bike wouldn't start today after a few long attempts with a strong battery, and what I would call a normal starter rpm. I had it on a battery tender.

I will say I have noticed my bike can be starter rpm sensitive, usually after sitting for a few weeks.

Won't always fire even with I would say is a normal/fast spin. Fires with a charger spinning fast.

Anyway, I had washed it and put it away without running it a few weeks ago. I don't like to do that.

After cranking it several cycles on and off, it started spinning a little slower so I put it on a battery charger and it fired up after spinning a little faster. Wasn't flooded, no fuel smell, no WOT to start.

Went a few miles and it died on the road going 45mph. Wouldn't restart immediately. Waited 5 and it lit.

Got to the gas station 1/2 mile later and after filling it again wouldn't restart. I thought it might have been me releasing the starter too early, restarting and flooding it, so I WOT but no love. Plus I didn't smell any fuel with my nose near the exhaust while buddy cranked it.

Finally started after 8 min wait

Did a 40 mile ride and stopped at Camarillo Airport-Waypoint Cafe, after a 2 hr cool down it fired right up, but turning out of the parking lot it died, wouldn't restart ( I nearly dumped it). Waited 5 and it lit.

No probs for the return ride home.

I had this happen a year ago or so and I cleaned the kill switch an it seemed to respond.

Its as if the kill switch is hit. I took switch apart again and it was as clean as it was after cleaning it a year ago. Sprayed contact cleaner anyway and closed it up.

No error codes are logged.

What wouldn't cause an error code to log?

Any ideas?

Need to fix this for my trip to Montery Laguna Seca this coming weekend.

Thanks

 

[Mihalis fjr]

Defective ignition switch perhaps,or have a look if the couplers under of the tank in the front side are in good condition.There is a coupler,from what i have read could cause this symptom if the contacts are corroded.Have a look also in the fuel pump coupler.You heard the fuel pump that it works when you turn on the ignition switch?Also have a look with a multimeter on the battery terminals if the bolts are tightened first and if the voltage is about 14v or over when the engine works.Also have a look in the ECU coupler if it is in good clean condition and if all the wires are in good condition alsr...bad gas..My thoughts..

 

[RossKean]

Check to make sure that you don't have an intermittent sidestand switch. If you are in a "no-start" situation, try it in neutral which would eliminate a possible issue with that particular interrupt. My first guess would have been the kill switch but it appears that you have addressed this.

 

[majicmaker]

Sounds like the ignition switch. I had the same symptoms until the switch just gave up the ghost mid flight. Had to tow it home.

 

[ionbeam]

The red kill switch could stop the engine from running, but it would prevent the starter from spinning if it remained open.

The '04 isn't in the Gen II group that had bad ignition switches though there were a few issues with dirt in some Gen I ignition switches that had a vent hole. Some Gen I switches had vent holes and others didn't.

Ross offers very useful information that is also very easy to try.

Do you hear the fuel pump run when you turn on the key?

Dropper, it sounds like you can find your way around diAG, next time it won't start try using the actuator codes 30 (#1 & #4) and 31 (#2 & #3) for the coils and see if you can hear the plugs firing.

 

[SLK50]

Could be a weak or bad battery.

It'll spin the crank but not enough juice to light the fire.

I would get it tested.

 

[infrared]

Droptail,

Check the fuel filter. (Plug the fuel line, while you do that.) See if you can blow your breath through the filter in the direction of fuel flow. A good filter will be free-flowing to air. A partly-clogged filter can give you the troubles that you have described.

Cheers,

Infrared

 

[Ignacio]

Droptail,
Check the fuel filter. (Plug the fuel line, while you do that.) See if you can blow your breath through the filter in the direction of fuel flow. A good filter will be free-flowing to air. A partly-clogged filter can give you the troubles that you have described.

Cheers,

Infrared

The fuel filter (or more correctly a screen) is inside the tank and not a practically replaceable item..let alone something you can blow through. From memory the only reported issues with the filter/screen/pump had to do with a tank that was so crudded up that the pump failed. I'm not sure applying old school tricks with tanks, petcock, filter, and carbs is pertinent to our more modern bikes.

Call me one of those that electrical is more likely with ionbeam and Rosskean more close to the mark. Gen 1's never had an ignition recall or widespread issues....however there have been some switches go bad.

 

[droptail]

I found a brown/black dash pin in the couple under the tank as suggested corroded.

I suspect its a ground for ignition.

I scraped clean and sprayed, and finished with dielectric grease.

Any comments on using the grease in the coupler?

Road it yesterday with no probs so far.

Much appreciated for all the comments.

 

[ionbeam]

I found a brown/black dash pin in the couple under the tank as suggested corroded....I scraped clean and sprayed, and finished with dielectric grease. Any comments on using the grease in the coupler?

Looks like you have found your problem! That connector has shown to be over represented when looking at running issues. Do you recall what color the wires were where the corrosion was bad?

IMO & FWIW, I'm not a fan of dielectric grease in electrical connectors. Dielectric grease was never intended for this use. The grease is in fact an electrical insulator, the opposite of a conductor. When a coupler is filled with grease and then plugged in, the only way the coupler works is by the wiping action of the pins displacing the grease at the contact points. Plus, if the connector is really packed with grease and moisture still gets in, the grease will make it just as hard for the water to evaporate back out of the coupler.

What may work better would be something like ACF50 which kills corrosion and makes the connector resistant to the corrosion returning. Another product with similar properties is Corrosion X. Any product that claims to be 'polar bonding technology' would be acceptable.

 

[Niehart]

I found a brown/black dash pin in the couple under the tank as suggested corroded....I scraped clean and sprayed, and finished with dielectric grease. Any comments on using the grease in the coupler?

Looks like you have found your problem! That connector has shown to be over represented when looking at running issues. Do you recall what color the wires were where the corrosion was bad? Good Job

IMO & FWIW, I'm not a fan of dielectric grease in electrical connectors. Dielectric grease was never intended for this use. The grease is in fact an electrical insulator, the opposite of a conductor. When a coupler is filled with grease and then plugged in, the only way the coupler works is by the wiping action of the pins displacing the grease at the contact points. Plus, if the connector is really packed with grease and moisture still gets in, the grease will make it just as hard for the water to evaporate back out of the coupler.

What may work better would be something like ACF50 which kills corrosion and makes the connector resistant to the corrosion returning. Another product with similar properties is Corrosion X. Any product that claims to be 'polar bonding technology' would be acceptable. Good too know

 

[droptail]

I found a brown/black dash (lead) pin in the couple under the tank as suggested corroded