HID conversion--Gen!

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JustHoward

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I've read many posts on the forum about HID conversions--but most are months or years old. I'm going to do this conversion next month on my Gen II.

Questions:

1. Which vendor is the easiest to work with initially and in the event of warranty claim?

2. Are there any brands or vendors to stay away from?

3. Are the slim ballasts the way to go, or are the old type more reliable?

4. HIDcountry says they have a slim ballast with the igniter built in. Any thoughts?

Howard

 
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From what I understand, you'll need the slim ballasts in a Gen-II, just no room for the larger ones.

That's all I can offer.

 
Skooter, I have read, and appreciate the wisdom of your comments on this matter. However, I MUST do something to shed eletrcity usage. On rallies, when I turn on my HID aux lites, and my electric vest and gloves, my voltage meter shows dropping voltage to the point that I have been unable to start the bike after shutting it down.

By shedding 40 watts or so with HIDs vs halogens, I hope to be able to see at nite AND stay warm.

 
Howard, here is a link to my Gen I HID installation. I originally installed the HIDcountry G4 ballasts and 6000K color lights. I had a ballast go out, and HIDcountry replaced the entire kit with the Slim Digital ballasts with separate igniter. I have 20,000 miles on these lights already, although I have only owned the bike for a year. I have installed HIDcountry lights in about 8 motorcycles and two cars so far. Problems have been rare, but like with the G4 ballast HID country has easily replaced any equipment without any hassle. The most common failure I have seen is actually poor contacts in relay harnesses, rather than a failure in bulbs or ballasts. That can be hard to diagnose.

In my opinion the slim ballast is more reliable than G4, but G4 is super easy to work with due to its very small size. I plan my installations to have the 3-prong H4 plug easily reachable just in case a failure of any kind occurs. That way I can always plug in a Halogen H4 bulb and have both lights. The FJR is a good platform for HID because you end up with the redundancy of two independently powered lights. A failure in one, does not put you in the dark. That is two harnesses with fuses, two ballasts and two bulbs, either set can be easily substituted back to halogen. During installation, you will want to replace the rubber boot over the bulb base, and it will be way too tight. You need to slit the center opening of the boot top and bottom to be able to slip it over the larger HID bulb base. It will seal and has not been a problem for me.

Failures are more common with HID, and they are most common within 2000 miles or a couple months of installation. Once a set has gone beyond that time, I have never experienced a failure. I use 4300K bulbs now with the motorcycle slim ballast kits. On a Gen I there is enough room to tuck the ballasts into the side fairings. I thin Gen II has less flexibility. If you have any questions, I'd be glad to help. I am as strong a supporter of these lights as Scooter is a detractor. I just think the extra night vision and visibility safety is well worthwhile. Reliability has not been an issue, once I got past the initial bugs on a couple sets. If you are concerned, keep an extra HID set on standby. It will only cost you another $50.

As you say, warmth counts as well. My voltmeter stays above 13.5 with the HIDS Warm & Safe 90 watt jacket, Clearwater lights, Autocom, GPS, Radar and radio in operation, and my Gen I has 100 watts less than your Gen II.

Tom

 
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Thanks, Tom. I have seen some favorable comments about retro-solutions HID kit. Do you have any experience with those? Some folks seem to really like them, even though they go for about $170 for the pair.

I'm not anxious to spend any more $$ than I must, but I'd hate to have one of these go bad and have to take the bike apart again.

Howard

 
Skooter, I have read, and appreciate the wisdom of your comments on this matter. However, I MUST do something to shed eletrcity usage. On rallies, when I turn on my HID aux lites, and my electric vest and gloves, my voltage meter shows dropping voltage to the point that I have been unable to start the bike after shutting it down.

By shedding 40 watts or so with HIDs vs halogens, I hope to be able to see at nite AND stay warm.
Well, color me extremely skeptical that you will be getting ANY electrical power savings at all, much less 40 watts. Best of luck to you, I hope I am wrong.

 
Mike, his priority is reduced power consumption, not increased lighting necessarily. I'm with Skooter on that, though, I don't see a 40 watts reduction with HIDs, but I don't know anything for sure about them.

 
I have HID aux lites now. That's 70+watts.

I have a 90 watt jacket (which, in the winter, I often run all the way high on the temp).

I have 15 watt gloves.

On rallies, I use 2 GPS's and a radar detector--total about 30 watts.

That's 215 watts of power draw.

At nite, on two lane roads, I tend to go slower than normal, certainly not revving up to 5,000 RPMs, which is the spec for getting the most out of our alternator.

Sooooo--

I'm trying to REDUCE my power consumption by switching to HID's.

Any thoughts on the best kit and/or vendor?

Howard

 
I have HID aux lites now. That's 70+watts.

I'm trying to REDUCE my power consumption by switching to HID's.

Mike, his priority is reduced power consumption, not increased lighting necessarily. I'm with Skooter on that, though, I don't see a 40 watts reduction with HIDs, but I don't know anything for sure about them.
he's got & runs HID aux lights @ 70WATTS

just replace them with LED 30watts aux lights

40watts makes a big diff at easy install

price may be3 an issue, but if real time industries or another vendor has them like burnspots which impressed me at a decent price

 
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...

Any thoughts on the best kit and/or vendor?

Howard
I think I read around and a lot of folks go with a vendor others have used and had good luck; but every time I found one that had good luck, others say they had bad luck. So I figured, I'll be the guinea pig and pick one keeping in mind how to swap out (and plan ahead) if needed.

Anyway, I used one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Zenex-Universal-replacement-Digital-ballast/dp/B00262S6I8/ref=cm_cr-mr-title on one side and another one (from EuroEffects) (more expensive) on an FZ6, Vstar 1300 and now the FJR. I had two of the EuroEffects ballasts and one of them died (well a bulb of their's died too after two months too so not so sure about the quality).

Anyway, my right light is from EuroEffects (both ballast/ignitor and H4 4300K bulb); my left light has the ballast above (with ignitor builtin) and a different vendor for H4 6000K light (I meant to order 4300K but made a mistake but now I have extras and never returned them). Eventually, I'll make them both the same. For now, it's good enough.

Taking things apart only involved removing the 4 panels on the front cowling and removing the OEM bulbs. I'm 5'6" with thin fingers (with piano players' dexterity) so I was able to get in there and get the bulbs in/out with some effort (and patience). I put the ballasts behind the side fairings or under the flat panels (can't remember but they don't rattle and you can't really see them; I'm pretty sure I used double sided 3M fasteners (the kind you use with toll transponders) too.

I don't have projectors, so the light quality is only ok (you get some dull spots) but you get good light coverage. It's still quite a bit better than stock but nothing like the HIDs on my Acura TL (they came with projectors). I went with the H4 kit (halogen hibeam meant only to pass inspection) and HID lowbeam. Sometimes I use hibeam to remind me just how dark the stock lights are but rarely need them. The install is relatively straight forward so going back to stock is not hard at all. Changing out a bad HID bulb is not hard either. Either way, I would never consider going back to stock except to appease a would-be buyer on resale (hopefully a long time from now).

I also run a 90w Warm-and-safe jacket and gloves but that's it (aside from a small GPS) so I don't have any wattage issues. I'm running the 40w version of the ballasts. There are also 55w ballasts that give more light but the 40w is pretty bright.

I know there are a bunch of folks that hate non-projector HIDs (due to aiming too high and blinding cars approaching) or dislike the uneven quality of the lights but these do the job for me. I think I've had them for a month (and one side a month longer than that) so they're still in "testing" phase.

Dennis

 
Anyone have any experience with these? :

https://www.motorcycl...D-Xenon-Lights/

I am considering purchsing them & installing them over the winter.
No 4300K would be a deal breaker for me. Also, losing my high beams is not acceptable.

What are you talking about? 4300k?? And why would you lose your high beams? Am I missing something??

I've really been thinking of going to HIDs...
You need the bi-xenon HID to keep high and low beam functionality. 4300k refers to the heat range in kelvin which corresponds to color. The lower the number the more yellow, the higher the more blue. I used these 35w HID Bi-Xenon digital slim ballasts, They are available in 55watt also. I used the 5000k heat range, which is not too yellow for my taste. These are not the cheapest available out there, but they carry a lifetime warranty on the lamps and ballasts. They also have a harness for wiring on motorcycle so the high low switch activates these. You will need to wire in your own relay to pwoer them, but that is very easy to do. I had to adjust my headlamps down just slightly. The ballasts are easy to install just to teh outside of the headlight housings (once you pull the front fairing off). They provide awesome light. I am not running the hgih night time speeds the LDR riders do, so they may not provide enough for them, but they make enought area for my night riding into daylight to work for me.

I got them from Retro-Solutions, they offer a 10% discount on the cumminsforum using "diesel" as the discount code. I do recommend calling them and talking to them to make sure you have the right stuff. They are very responsive and easy to work with. I have a full season on mine and about 10,000 miles without a hitch. The fit and manufacture quality on my set is very good.

 
By shedding 40 watts or so with HIDs vs halogens, I hope to be able to see at nite AND stay warm.
Converting from stock lighting to HID will not save much wattage. The ballests use around 4 amps each. (about 55 watts, same as the stock 55 watt bulb) Once they warm up I think the amps may drop to 3.8 or so (that's what I measured on my installation). The light output is worth the conversion but you won's save power useage.

 
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