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gregarious

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Guys-

How hard is it to change out a spark plug wire? Do I have to take all the bodywork off? Yes, I was changing my spark plugs and I tore the spark plug boot? Does anyone have a spare laying around?

Thanks,

greg :angry2:

 

Constant Mesh

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You tore/broke/cracked the top of the cap? I mangled one of mine while tugging on it trying to get it up and out. The cap and wire are separate parts -- you can remove the cap from the wire. The cap threads onto the wire end -- clockwise to install. The cap has a small threaded screw tip which grabs onto the wire as you twist it clockwise.

The cap is electrically functional if you tear off the top. Keep the torn off top on the wire and just slide it down on the head cover opening once you have the cap body nestled atop the plug. With the top slid up the wire out of the way you can loop a shoestring, etc. around the cap tube down in the head and extract the cap body.

 

gregarious

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You tore/broke/cracked the top of the cap? I mangled one of mine while tugging on it trying to get it up and out. The cap and wire are separate parts -- you can remove the cap from the wire. The cap threads onto the wire end -- clockwise to install. The cap has a small threaded screw tip which grabs onto the wire as you twist it clockwise.

The cap is electrically functional if you tear off the top. Keep the torn off top on the wire and just slide it down on the head cover opening once you have the cap body nestled atop the plug. With the top slid up the wire out of the way you can loop a shoestring, etc. around the cap tube down in the head and extract the cap body.
Yes, I tore the top of the cap. You're saying that as long as the cap tube is attached to the plug that it is still functional?

 

Constant Mesh

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Yes, it should still be functional. I'm running one right now in that condition. There's a hard plastic tube embedded in the soft rubber. The tube is the structural portion of the cap. All the important stuff is in the tube. The threaded connector is in the tube along with the spring-loaded 10K resistor. The small wire friction connectors which grab onto the spark plug's top are in the tube.

It's nice to retain the round rubber top so that you can cover over the opening in the head cover to keep out trash and moisture. Although any moisture would likely quickly evaporate with the engine running.

For whatever reason some of the caps latch onto the plugs much tighter than others. It's probably all to do with the small wire grabbers inside the cap. Some of them really bite into the metal connector/electrode on the plug.

 
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Patriot

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Guys-

How hard is it to change out a spark plug wire? Do I have to take all the bodywork off? Yes, I was changing my spark plugs and I tore the spark plug boot? Does anyone have a spare laying around?

Thanks,

greg :angry2:
I'm sorry dude...

it's always my recommendation to put "never seize" on the plug threads and silicone or dielectric grease on the inside of the rubber boots

as insurance to prevent issues down the road at the next plug change

and I also recommend NGK Iridium plugs...cost a little more, but triple/quadruple the longevity of the plugs...from 15k to 45k miles IMHO

 

RadioHowie

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Just don't screw up the plug wire(s). They are PERMANENTLY attached to the coils and if you FUBAR a plug wire, you can only replace them by replacing the coil the wire is attached to.

 

Constant Mesh

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You can replace the plug wire on a coil. It has the same kind of threaded screw connector as the cap. I haven't verified this but Radman mentioned that the wire can be disconnected at the coil end. He mentioned you can buy replacement plug wire at most auto stores and cut it to length. Don't know what size but various diameter wire is available.

There's some type of latching device at the coil which physically secures the wires. But it will come apart according to Radman and then you can remove/replace the wire.

 

SkooterG

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Don't feel bad. You are not the only one. I just mangled one the other day for a SECOND time. Here's the thread when I did it the first time: Clicky. They definitely get softer as they get older.

The problem is, the boot (and only the boot) is $$$$. Yamaha is real proud of that part. Full price is like $75 freaking dollars for just the damn boot. You can find it for about $45 (before shipping) from a discount vendor.

Or, I can send you one for $15. After the first time, I bought some spares off ebay.

 

gregarious

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I might not have made the situation clear......The spark plug tube is fine, the cap is broken off from both the spark plug wire and the spark plug tube. Can I reattach the spark plug wire to the cap and make it functional. It's still not clear to me. I'm an idiot :rolleyes:

 

gregarious

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I might not have made the situation clear......The spark plug tube is fine, the cap is broken off from both the spark plug wire and the spark plug tube. Can I reattach the spark plug wire to the cap and make it functional. It's still not clear to me. I'm an idiot :rolleyes:

SkooterG:

I just looked at your link, and mine is basically the same as your picture.....

 

SkooterG

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If yours looks like mine, I think it will be difficult to attach the wire. Its the upper part of the rubber boot that 'holds' the plug wire.

I got spares. For relatively cheap. Let me know.

 

gregarious

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SkooterG:

I'll take one. I'll send you a PM shortly. I'm going to try and make this one work, but I can see I need a spare or two.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

 

gregarious

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SkooterG:

I'll take one. I'll send you a PM shortly. I'm going to try and make this one work, but I can see I need a spare or two.

Thanks everyone for the advice.

 

gregarious

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I think screwing in the broken plug cap is going to work- it feels pretty well connected. Later this afternoon, I'll button things back up and synch my injectors. I'll know for sure then. Keep your fingers crossed!

 

gregarious

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UPDATE;

Constant mesh is correct- I was able to screw the cap on to the wire with no problem, and I just synched the injectors- it's running perfect. Thanks again everyone, especially SkooterG for sending me some spares.

Greg

 
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