Key Hard to Turn

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SacramentoMike

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Here's a new little something that just popped up. Had the forks cranked over and locked and the key was very hard to turn to unlock the forks or go to the "on" position. I have had to put a little pressure on the handlebars before to turn the key if it's cranked over hard and right up against the stop, but this seemed different. Later I stopped for an errand and didn't lock the forks. The key was again hard to turn out of the "off" position.

I jiggled the key and moved the bars a little bit this way and that, and eventually it moved, and once it went to "on," it starts just fine, but since this is new, naturally I'm concerned it could get worse. But frankly, it's bad enough now--or at least annoying enough. I did shoot some graphite down into the lock just now, but it didn't seem to address this. What do you think?

 
Check the locking pin underneath...the part that actually engages the forks. My guess is there's plenty of road splooge prohibiting it from working smoothly.

 
There are two sections to the switch.The top is the tumblers and the bottom is the contacts. I suspect something is binding in the bottom part and lube doesn't get there from the top. It can be taken apart but you have to drill out the anti tamper screws and then watch out for springs and contacts falling apart.

 
I wonder if your lock cylinder is in the first stage of taking a dump. Scooter's bike's ignition works funny too...

Edited to add: How old is your key? Did you try another less worn one??

 
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1st thing I'd do is shoot some graphite lock lube into it. Mine was hard to turn a couple of months ago..shot the graphite into it, worked the key in and out a few times, and like new again.

 
Try putting a bit 'backwards' pressure on the key as you turn it. Both my FJRs eventually started doing this. If you know how to handle it, it's no big deal.

 
one of my undocumented PM tasks each year is to spritz some aerosol silicone spray lube into each lock tumbler. i flood the assembly so it blows out any grit.

i avoid wd-40 because it becomes gummy.

 
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Check to see if the key is bent. Look at it. Mine gets bent from closing the bags and I don't notice that it is bent until the ignition starts to bind. I am now more careful with closing the bags.

 
Just curious, is it an OEM Yamaha key or a dupe?

The bending in the side case idea above has been something I have experienced with the soft shitty OEM key. So far, no issues with my ignition, though.

 
replace the whole key lock with a 50amp double pole toggle switch...

oh yeah...wrap it with red tape with a label "Do Not Touch"

you're welcome

 
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