Leaking Water Pump

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ALFJR

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With the EOM around the corner, I thought I would give the FJR a wash and a "little going over." Getting the bike out of the garage with the motor running, I notice a little puddle underneath the O2 sensor. It's coolant!

Digging a little deeper, the coolant is coming out of the weep hole on the back underside of the water pump. You have to use a mirror to actually see this little hole. At first the leak looked like it was coming out from the coolant drain plug. I confirmed it's coming out of the weep hole as I wadded up paper towel under the weep hole and within two minutes it was soaked. At the same time, no coolant was evident from the drain plug area.

So, serching on our Forum, I found the following:Water pump leak

From the above link and research, it would seem that this is a rather rare failure. Anyway, with the EOM around the corner, is anyone aware of a complete water pump ass'y for the FJR? From the above post, and from looking at the online Yamaha parts catalog, there does not appear to be an entire water pump assembly available.

I've never actually repaired a water pump. I have always replaed them as an assembly for several different vehicles. Is this going to be a Japanese Science Project??

If am resigned to fixing this thing what parts would you throw at it??

I'm thinking I may be missing this EOM.. (Forest) Rats! :angry:

Any help and input would be appreciated!! Thanks!!

 
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With the EOM around the corner, I thought I would give the FJR a wash and a "little going over." Getting the bike out of the garage with the motor running, I notice a little puddle underneath the O2 sensor. It's coolant!
Digging a little deeper, the coolant is coming out of the weep hole on the back underside of the water pump. You have to use a mirror to actually see this little hole. At first the leak looked like it was coming out from the coolant drain plug. I confirmed it's coming out of the weep hole as I wadded up paper towel under the wee hole and within two minutes it was soaked. At the same time, no coolant was evident from the drain plug area.

So, serching on our Forum, I found the following:Water pump leak

From the above link and research, it would seem that this is a rather rare failure. Anyway, with the EOM around the corner, is anyone aware of a complete water pump ass'y for the FJR? From the above post, and from looking at the online Yamaha parts catalog, there does not appear to be an entire water pump assembly available.

I've never actually repaired a water pump. I have always replaed them as an assembly for several different vehicles. Is this going to be a Japanese Science Project??

If am resigned to fixing this thing what parts would you throw at it??

I'm thinking I may be missing this EOM.. (Forest) Rats! :angry:

Any help and input would be appreciated!! Thanks!!
Man that sucks! I know on most cars the internal bushing would wear and the coolent would leek through the bushing. I am not sure how the the Feej is setup. At this point i would maybe bring a gallon of anti freeze and do the EOM any way. Is it worse while driving or just sitting there? If idleing for a while and in the high temp range the leekage may prove to be worse due to more pressure from increased temps. Use some stop leak and fix it when you get back.

Good luck

 
Get all new seals and gaskets. Check bearings and shaft for corrosion.

I've never done a FeeJ water pump but I did do my BMW K1100RS water pump, twice. Seems it's inherent to these. Similar deal, water out the weep hole.

First time trying to get the seal on the shaft I destroyed it completely. Needless to say a special tool is needed that the manual didn't tell me. So another $25 for the bloody seal (That's why I no longer have a Beemer, kind of pricey on parts etc), I had the dealer install it for $50, they actually charged me what it took to do the job. They did a grand job. Then again like clock work another 15K miles, it did it again. This time I also bought a new shaft, to the tune of $125! OUCH! Again I had the dealer do it, this time they charged me for the full our $75. Did I mention I'm really tired of BMW's...?

Anyway, by the FeeJ parts break down it didn't look to bad, but the seal depending on its construction, could be tricky, you may want the dealer to install it. Check it all out first. The Beemer seal had a spring in it, etc, it was rather fragile without the tricky installation tool that the dealer made for doing this.

Good luck.

 
I had considered doing the Stop Leak approach. But I'm rather fussy and would be concerned that the pump would grenade in the middle of some twisty and throw coolant in the path of my rear wheel, or someone elses.

FJRBluesman are you saying your dealer rebuilt your BMW water pump? That might be an approach if my dealer would go for it. I wonder if anyone else took this path with their FJR....

PITA Pump!! I never expected this on an '05 with 46k miles!! And worse yet, my YES just expired like six weeks ago!!

 
FJRBluesman are you saying your dealer rebuilt your BMW water pump? That might be an approach if my dealer would go for it. I wonder if anyone else took this path with their FJR....
Well... They did remove all old gasket material kind of resurfaced, probably just sanded it, the area. They just took the pump housing and installed the seal onto the shaft. The K-bike pump is really the housing, a shaft with a gear on it, and the seals and maybe a bearing. Simple really, just not seal installation friendly.
You could do the same remove the pump and tell them to reinstall the seal, and what ever else might be needed if corrosion took a toll.

Basically looking at the diagram from your water pump leak clicky, remove the pump and then take part #1 to them. It should hold everything that needs replacing etc. There is an O-ring oil seal at the motor and the shaft (driven end at motor) to prevent oil from coming out.

BTW - That #4 Mechanical seal looks oddly like my BMW seal that had a spring in it etc. I bet it's very similar in design etc. Take it to the dealer to be installed.

***EDIT*** I finally got out the trusty ole manual. The manual calls for a Water pump seal installer, YM-33221, and 40 and 50 mm bearing driver, YM-04058.

Looking at this it would be an easy job to remove and reinstall the pump and have the dealer do the tricky stuff. Besides if they blow it, they replace the seal, although you'll have to remove everything again.

And worse yet, my YES just expired like six weeks ago!!
Bummer, that really hurts.
Good luck.

 
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I had my water pump start leaking last year at about 49000 miles on the way back from NAFO. It leaked on and off for about the next 1000 miles and I finally replaced all the orings, seals and gaskets in the water pump. No leaks for about 4000 miles and then it started leaking again!! Sooo, I bought all the parts again and was ready to do the job over again and it stopped leaking. No leaks this year for a while and then it started leaking before I went to CFR. Took all the parts with me in case it cratered on the road, which it didn't. So my rebuilt pump has about 23000 miles on it and seems to be fine right now. The actual pump seal is a little tricky getting into the pump body. Gary McCoy at Mondak says you can dork it pretty easily. And he also recommends buying a new pump impeller when you rebuild the pump, since one half of the seal fits into the impeller. Impeller only costs about $15. All the parts cost about $50 or $60.

 
I had my water pump start leaking last year at about 49000 miles on the way back from NAFO. It leaked on and off for about the next 1000 miles and I finally replaced all the orings, seals and gaskets in the water pump. No leaks for about 4000 miles and then it started leaking again!! Sooo, I bought all the parts again and was ready to do the job over again and it stopped leaking. No leaks this year for a while and then it started leaking before I went to CFR. Took all the parts with me in case it cratered on the road, which it didn't. So my rebuilt pump has about 23000 miles on it and seems to be fine right now. The actual pump seal is a little tricky getting into the pump body. Gary McCoy at Mondak says you can dork it pretty easily. And he also recommends buying a new pump impeller when you rebuild the pump, since one half of the seal fits into the impeller. Impeller only costs about $15. All the parts cost about $50 or $60.
FJRBluesman, good stuff! I too looked at the FSM and any time I see "Special Tools", I get nervous! I may pursue the dealer rebuild approach. As griff indicates, sounds like one could "dork" an impeller easily.

griff, do you recall what parts you had ordered?? Thanks, guys!!

 
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griff, do you recall what parts you had ordered??
As I recall, I ordered the oil oring, oil seal, two bearings, water pump seal, impeller and gasket for the outer case. Gary McCoy at Mondak can generate the list easily. I used a piece of pvc pipe as the driver for the water pump seal. Heating and cooling the pump body and bearings helped the install.

 
All fixed! Got parts via next day air, then went from the parts department to the service department yesterday at Rosenau in Dearborn Heights. In the time it took me to get a haircut, (literally), they rebuilt the water pump!... $40 bucks labor! Done! (I brought then the water pump housing to rebuild.) Installed the rebuilt pump into the FJR and all is good!

Tonight, I'm, almost packed and reasdy for the trip down to EOM tomorrow AM! :yahoo:

Details on the pump and seals if you are interested upon my return...

Cheers!

 
All fixed! Got parts via next day air, then went from the parts department to the service department yesterday at Rosenau in Dearborn Heights. In the time it took me to get a haircut, (literally), they rebuilt the water pump!... $40 bucks labor! Done! (I brought then the water pump housing to rebuild.) Installed the rebuilt pump into the FJR and all is good!Tonight, I'm, almost packed and reasdy for the trip down to EOM tomorrow AM! :yahoo:

Details on the pump and seals if you are interested upon my return...

Cheers!
I love it when a plan comes together!
Enjoy and ride safe.

 
All fixed! Got parts via next day air, then went from the parts department to the service department yesterday at Rosenau in Dearborn Heights. In the time it took me to get a haircut, (literally), they rebuilt the water pump!... $40 bucks labor! Done! (I brought then the water pump housing to rebuild.) Installed the rebuilt pump into the FJR and all is good!
This is good info. I had one or two drips of coolant from my weep hole one time on my nearly brand new 2008 FJR. I haven't seen any drips since that one time, but at least I know it won't be too bad to get it fixed if it starts again.

 
I'm having this problem when I ran the engine for an oil change. I did some search in the forum and understand that I need to replace the seals in the water pump assy.

However, do I need to drain the oil for this job? The manual says so buy I didn't do it when I change my stator coil. Will oil gush out from the engine side when I remove the pump assy?

 
All fixed! Got parts via next day air, then went from the parts department to the service department yesterday at Rosenau in Dearborn Heights. In the time it took me to get a haircut, (literally), they rebuilt the water pump!... $40 bucks labor! Done! (I brought then the water pump housing to rebuild.) Installed the rebuilt pump into the FJR and all is good!
Tonight, I'm, almost packed and reasdy for the trip down to EOM tomorrow AM! :yahoo:

Details on the pump and seals if you are interested upon my return...

Cheers!
I've got mine fixed too... I only managed to tear it down to the impeller, The mechanical seals won't budge at all and I send it to the agent. $20 SGD for labour, but mine did less work, :rolleyes:

https://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=1594...8956&ref=nf

 
Don't ever plug the weep hole unless you're in the middle of nowhere wiith no spare coolant on hand. It's there specifically to tell you the mechanical seal is leaking. If you plug the hole, the coolant will only force it's way out thru the gaskets or o-rings. I haven't looked at the parts breakdown but in some cases the coolant can force it's way into the engine (oil) if the weep hole is plugged.

 
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