Long-Distance Endurance MT10 Project

[Dan Cooper]

They offer both 8mm and 11mm stem sizes for internal sensors; you probably got the 8mm...

SRTP400 Internal Tire Pressure Monitor

1- Tire pressure monitor for motorcycles. With Internal tire sensors 2- 1.5" water resistance monitor with a built-in rechargeable battery 3- Advanced internal sensors for easy reach 4- Exchangeable to PSI and Fahrenheit, 9-12 month long-life rechargeable battery in the monitor Revolutionary...

sykik.com

I was wrong about saying I ordered the actual SRTP400 kit and didn't realize that until I looked at your link.
The kit that I ordered had 90 degree valve stems and there was no information about the stem diameter.

This kit was listed as SRTP400 when I purchased it.



But I now think it was a kit some reseller made up using these 90 degree valve stem sensors, which are compatible with the SRTP400 receiver but are available only with 8mm stems.

Internal sensor for cars and motorcycles

Additional sensor for most TPMS with display with FSK433.92MHZ Compatible with SRTP400, SRT690

sykik.com

It was the 90 degree valve stems that would not work with the FJR wheels.

Thanks for making me look again, dammit !!


dan

 

[Bill Lumberg]

And stem mounted variants have an issue with weight-on-the-stem. Yes?

No. Not if you’re using the proper stem.

 

[Warchild]

While I ordered and have the duel outlet metal stems. I am not using them. That could be had cheap from me, for those that are interested.

 

[Warchild]

Dropped 2 teeth in the rear, gives almost 500 RPMs savings at speed. Side advantage: I have increased my wheelbase by a solid 11mm. There a lot more threads showing between the adjuster nuts compared to stock bikes.

That fantastic dimpled stainless steel flanged axle nut is from Pro-Bolt.

 

[Panman]

Nice!

 

[Oldjeep]

Fwiw, I use the model with the cap sensors and standard short rubber stems. The idea that the caps are heavy enough to damage the stems is ridiculous. Take a look at the metal and dice stem covers that people have used since I was a kid

 

[Whooshka]

It's not so much the weight of the sensor that is scaring people. It's that the cap presses down engaging the valve core full time and pressurizing the entire valve stem. As if you were filling a tire with air all the time, although I've never heard of a valve stem blowing wile filling a tire.

 

[Oldjeep]

It's not so much the weight of the sensor that is scaring people. It's that the cap presses down engaging the valve core full time and pressurizing the entire valve stem. As if you were filling a tire with air all the time, although I've never heard of a valve stem blowing wile filling a tire.

Had them on for 2 years, no issues yet.

 

[Warchild]

Slight setback.

Getting ready for the crucial drilling for bulkhead fitting, but with only a 67mm diameter opening from fuel pump... sheah, not even getting a hand in there, much less working a stubby 20mm wrench. Yellow 'X' marks fitting placement. Even if a hand could get in there, you'd be working totally blind:






This may end up being an Ernie Azevedo brazing job. I'm okay with that. Can't really fuck around with this fitting, it has to be perfect.

 

[Lost]

Dropped 2 teeth in the rear, gives almost 500 RPMs savings at speed. Side advantage: I have increased my wheelbase by a solid 11mm. There a lot more threads showing between the adjuster nuts compared to stock bikes.

That fantastic dimpled stainless steel flanged axle nut is from Pro-Bolt.

View attachment 3686

Have you considered adding a tooth to the front sprocket? It's about the same as dropping 2-3 teeth in the rear and imo helps extend chain life. Love the nut!!!!

 

[AdamK]

It's that the cap presses down engaging the valve core full time and pressurizing the entire valve stem.

The stem is always under pressure below the Schrader valve. I can't see pressurizing the additional 1/8 - 3/16" at the top of the stem to be an issue. That said, you're relying on the cap/sensor to seal the stem rather that the Schrader valve. That's like relying on the valve cap to seal the tire.

 

[Whooshka]

The stem is always under pressure below the Schrader valve. I can't see pressurizing the additional 1/8 - 3/16" at the top of the stem to be an issue. That said, you're relying on the cap/sensor to seal the stem rather that the Schrader valve. That's like relying on the valve cap to seal the tire.

That's how the external sensors work, depressing the Schrader valve constantly in order to measure the PSI.

 

[Cyclepath]

Chiming in here with my $0.02.

Actually, spanning two different FJRs over the last 7 riding seasons, I've had great success using carefully installed, decent quality Chinese made TPMS similar to the one presented by the OP here. The only time I had any kind of leakage, it was a slow thing, and was positively confirmed to be caused by an aging valve stem gasket - not either of my TPMS external sensor heads. Have used 3 different TPMS units - all similar, and all bought on Amazon.

For ~ $50, I get piece of mind while ripping through remote mountain twisties in far away places (little to no population most of the time for me).
My current Gen III also has awesome "T" style double-headed valve stems, so that I never actually have to touch those external TPMS sensors even if I decide to adjust tire pressure for some reason (rare).

 

[Auburn]

Had them on for 2 years, no issues yet.

Consider yourself lucky. The rubber valve stems crack and fail. The failures are sudden like a blow out, not slow like a leak. It's the centrifugal force of the extra weight of the TPMS moving around that causes the failure. Many, many reports of failures from people that didn't change their valve stems to metal ones.

 

[Warchild]

Big day this upcoming Friday: the brazing job on the MT10's fuel tank. So I really need to wrap up the plumbing job for the aux cell. I intend to be on the road Saturday for the very first test run of this cell on the Yamaha.

I have the fuel and vent line connected, the fuel line (right) has already began it's run forward to the main tank; I have yet to affix the (left) vent line to the Givi rail:




There is absolutely no room to run these lines through the chassis bodywork - like there is much bodywork on this naked racebike to begin with. The lines must run along the external frame:

 

[08FJR4ME]

View attachment 3719

Would some 90 degree brass fitting be more advantages? It may eliminate covering up line of site of the lights. Just a thought.

Dave

 

[Auburn]

Dale, are overflow bottles required for IBA rules? On your tank, did you do a vent volume inside the tank?

 

[Oldjeep]

N

Consider yourself lucky. The rubber valve stems crack and fail. The failures are sudden like a blow out, not slow like a leak. It's the centrifugal force of the extra weight of the TPMS moving around that causes the failure. Many, many reports of failures from people that didn't change their valve stems to metal ones.

Not buying it, but good luck with your choice. On a erage a tire lasts me 3-4k, which is 4-5 months. They don't even snap in half when you pull them out with a pliers at each tire change.

 

[Warchild]

Dale, are overflow bottles required for IBA rules? On your tank, did you do a vent volume inside the tank?

No, overflow bottles not required by the IBA.

All of my venting is done internally, yes. It's a much cleaner arrangement, it avoids all the gnarly-looking vent lines externally draped all over the cell.

 

[dzane's son]

No, overflow bottles not required by the IBA.

All of my venting is done internally, yes. It's a much cleaner arrangement, it avoids all the gnarly-looking vent lines externally draped all over the cell.

View attachment 3721

That looks sensational. I love this build so much.

I must have missed something, but what caused the change in strategy for the aux fuel attachment to the main tank?