RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
I KNEW I preferred stereo over mono, but in a forum???
What's next....5.1 Dolby?
Lost Power
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What's next....5.1 Dolby?
I do see that putting dielectric grease and tying the connector in place will help, and probably fix the issue, but since you guys are in there already, especially when you see some evidence of a problem, is there a reason not to just pull the wires from plastic connector, solder them together, and seal them up, like with liquid tape, then electrical tape, or shrink wrap. Seems like that would be the more permanent fix, with better conductivity.
I do understand if the bikes still under warranty, but if not? Just asking, I'll be doing 16,000 mile maintenance soon, changing plugs., etc.(which I also have questions about, but that's another topci).
I'll be looking at this connector, and want to do any preventive cures while I'm there.
I do understand if the bikes still under warranty, but if not? Just asking, I'll be doing 16,000 mile maintenance soon, changing plugs., etc.(which I also have questions about, but that's another topci).
I'll be looking at this connector, and want to do any preventive cures while I'm there.
dcarver
Well-known member
Access is the real issue. In my case I have additional wiring looms, Audiovox CC, etc in the way. A royal PITA to get to. I can barely touch the junction with fingers. Connector manipulation is out of the question.
Road Runner III
Well-known member
The only farkle is a harness for my heated gear but that is wired directly to the battery so it would not have any effect on that ground cirucit. I have read that some guys have no farkles at all and have had the issue. It has been two days and still running, I hope to get to it over the long weekend in the mean time I will carry the tools needed to fix it on the side of the road.
Steve
Steve
Road Runner III
Well-known member
Fred W, if you were not so far away I would ride over and show you! B)
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
What? Grayslake is just a hop skip and a jump from the fine riding we have here in New England. I know, I lived in Zion, Il for several years (that seemed like a freeking eternity).
Just teasin' you though RR3. All of our bikes start out with no farkles. But that doesn't mean it is an attribute to stay that way!!
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RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Thank god for threads like this one. Not like the "How Old Are You" or "Does Your Significant Other Ride?" threads. Those are SO ghey, I got a yeast infection just reading the damn things.
Zorlac
Well-known member
Is there an echo in here?
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
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RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
bramfrank
BramFrank
Having read through this thread as the result of a link to it having been posted in another thread where a rider in Ireland with a US bike is having issues, I was struck by the thought that it might be specific to a sub-group of bikes . . .
On my machine power for all my farkles (except the directly powered HID Headlight conversion and headlight modulator (the conversion uses H3 bulbs forn the high beam), which was plug-and-play) are wired to an underseat fuse block and both power and ground are taken from the battery directly, and so likely doesn't flow through the impacted connector.
Having said that, it seems that many (if not most) of the machines are AE models . . . . aside from the shift mechanism, AE models in the US come with heated grips as factory standard equipment where the 'A" models didn't until (I think) '08 and I wonder if the problem might not be somehow related?
I have added OEM heated grips to my '06 A model - I'm about to install my cruise control and the servo is going under the tank, so I'll have it opened up and have an opportunity to check out that connector as soon as I get up the energy to do the work.
The grips could be what pushes the current draw 'over the top', but even so, it would seem that Yamaha will eventually be forced into a recall - as soon as someone files a formal complaint with the NHTSA alleging the potentially life threatening component to this defect.
On my machine power for all my farkles (except the directly powered HID Headlight conversion and headlight modulator (the conversion uses H3 bulbs forn the high beam), which was plug-and-play) are wired to an underseat fuse block and both power and ground are taken from the battery directly, and so likely doesn't flow through the impacted connector.
Having said that, it seems that many (if not most) of the machines are AE models . . . . aside from the shift mechanism, AE models in the US come with heated grips as factory standard equipment where the 'A" models didn't until (I think) '08 and I wonder if the problem might not be somehow related?
I have added OEM heated grips to my '06 A model - I'm about to install my cruise control and the servo is going under the tank, so I'll have it opened up and have an opportunity to check out that connector as soon as I get up the energy to do the work.
The grips could be what pushes the current draw 'over the top', but even so, it would seem that Yamaha will eventually be forced into a recall - as soon as someone files a formal complaint with the NHTSA alleging the potentially life threatening component to this defect.
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On my 2007 AE with almost 16,000 miles, I just pulled the tank and tupperware off adding several farkles, and checked these connectors.
This may have already been mentioned, but I located 4 under the tank, and 3 behind the front fairing, near the headlights. All of them looked perfectly clean and corrosion free, but I dielectric greased them, and the couple that were hanging loose to move, especially the one front right under the tank, I tied up so they are secure.
This may have already been mentioned, but I located 4 under the tank, and 3 behind the front fairing, near the headlights. All of them looked perfectly clean and corrosion free, but I dielectric greased them, and the couple that were hanging loose to move, especially the one front right under the tank, I tied up so they are secure.
You might be onto something there. When I installed a set of Honda ST1300 heated grips, I used the stock heated grip wiring to power them. The Honda grip controller goes into power shed mode (lamps flashing) whenever supply voltage drops below a set value (low 13 volts if I remember correctly). My grips were going into power shed mode all too often and I determined that there was excessive voltage drop in the factory heater wiring. So I rewired the heaters with larger gauge wiring through a power strip (which connects directly to the battery) and my problem went away.
painman
Well-known member
I'm just about totally in the dark with electrical, (pun intended), but it seems like way back when.....(can't seem to run down any old posts on this), but seems like I remember somewhere the Gen II frame, (or FJR frame period), is a "non-grounding" frame. Seems like reading some advice on when running farkles not putting any grounds to frame but to a fuse block etc., then to ground at the battery. Is there any truth to this and could this cause some of these corrosion/shorted ground issues?
I know from some bikes I've had, seems grounds or lack-there-of were usually the gremlins that were causing most the problems concerning electrical. PM. <>< :dntknw:
I know from some bikes I've had, seems grounds or lack-there-of were usually the gremlins that were causing most the problems concerning electrical. PM. <>< :dntknw:
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Road Runner III
Well-known member
I fixed this issue on my 08; I took the spider connector off that goes into the left ground connector. I took 12 gauge wire soldered a spade connector to one end and a loop type connector to the other then soldered the spade connector to the top of the spider connector. I then pushed the spider connector back into the left ground connector using dialectic grease, found a good ground for the other end and I have not had an issue since! I do not even take my tools for side of the road repairs anymore.
Zorlac
Well-known member
Using the frame as a negative side return or "ground" point to power anything is just poor wiring practice.It will work, but if the device being powered draws significant current problems can surface over time.
Returning all wiring back to the battery terminals is the correct way.
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