You have stuff in a number of threads relating to your running issues. You were obviously posting in threads believed to be relevant, but responses diverged somewhat diluting the effectiveness of those threads as technical resources. Also has the effect of making it difficult to track your series of problems and what has (and hasn't) been tried. While it is great to continue an existing thread that specifically deals with your issue rather than recreating a new and redundant one, in the absence of knowing the likely culprit it probably works better to start a new thread and refer to other targets (like the canister thread or the spider bite thread)
My Spider Bite Story - Post 50+
Sudden 2014 FJR1300A starting, running problem. Canister issue? - Post 23+
Your last post in the Spider Bite thread mentioned battery.
"But the comments and replies by all have been helpful to me sort this out. Ross mentioned Battery parasitic drain, and this morning after 12hrs of sitting the battery puked. My earlier voltage checks were good w 13.6v while running. Didn't do a load check, but a new battery is in order."
A bad battery (or bad connection) can certainly cause rough running issues. Best to have the battery fully charged and take it somewhere to be load tested. It goes without saying that terminal connections need to be clean and tight.
"Parasitic drain (or draw)" is the current that is being drawn from the battery with ignition (and accessories) turned off. In an FJR with healthy electrics, this should be a small fraction of a milliamp measured with an ammeter in series (with the ignition off). Parasitic draw should not contribute significantly to battery drain - even over a period of weeks or months.
Other battery-related factors include capacity, CCA (cold cranking amps) and self-discharge rate.
The load test will provide CCA data and gives a good idea of battery health.
You can get an idea of self-discharge rate by charging the battery, letting it sit (disconnected) for a period of days or longer and checking the load test (or even just the resting voltage) again. It should be noted that a healthy AGM battery will have a self-discharge rate of no more than a few percent per month - certainly shouldn't die in a few days. Both parasitic draw and self-discharge should be low enough that the bike should be able to sit idle for months (without a tender) and still retain enough power to start. I never use a battery tender but do a top-up charge once or twice over my 4-5 month winter layoff. (Current OEM battery is 12 years and over 100,000 miles)
Capacity is less important as long as the battery has enough power to start the bike and voltage is maintained at the appropriate level during operation of the bike.
Why not plan to keep further running-related issues in this thread? Or perhaps better to start a new one in the technical area rather than this introduction section (copying the relevant posts from this and the other threads into some coherent framework).
Perhaps the battery will be the final answer and an end to this part of the discussion...
FJRs are among the most reliable motorcycles out there. I think it is unlikely that yours has a serious problem - just a matter of diagnosis.
