Newbie needs help.

[Jerseydevil]

Here's whats going on.. I have a new to me 2010 with 11k miles on her.. I've put about 500 miles on her.. mostly at slow speeds.. I've had trouble cornering.. It feels like she's fighting in the turn.. I thought it was just that she's a totally different type of bike.. (I've only ridden my 05 VTX for 17 years now).. and that it was our Honeymoon period.. I put the rear selector on SOFT and that seemed to help her tuck in a corner.. but today after (TRYING) to get her up to highway speeds on the highway.. I Literally watched the front end float from side to side..like I was on ICE.. Right around 60 mph.. I backed her down to 50 put my hazards on and got off at the next exit.. took side roads to work with no issues.. Here's what I Know.. I Am ( thanks to the china virus) around 270 n 6'.. The front tire is a SHINKO APEX.. This bike was dropped by the previous owner as there is some road rash on the fairing right below the handlebars.. Thought's? I Am very mechanically inclined.. I do all my own work on everything I own.. partly from being poor lol but mostly cause I don;t trust anyone who's livelyhood is in my Wallet.. but this suspension stuff might be outa my league as I've gotten older.. I'm more then willing to bring to a dealership (NOT THE ONE I BOUGHT IT FROM JUST ON THE FACT THAT WHEN I ASKED THEM ABOUT THE SUSPENSION THEY SAID "THE FATCORY SEETINGS ARE JUST FINE AND YA DON'T WANNA SCREW WITH THEM") Thanks for any help or advice in advance.

 

[two wheels]

Tire pressure 40 front -42rear.Could also check steering head bearings Soft suspension setting will cause a wobbling feeling.I have never run a Shinko tire so I cannot comment on that.Sounds like tire pressure to me but to do that it would have to be very low.Low tire pressure on the front =heavy steering.

 

[Bounce]

I do 41 front and 42 back. I also check the settings on the front forks to make sure that they are set equally. It's easy to have one off a few clicks from the other.

Steering Head Bearing

 

[RossKean]

Two Wheels replied as I was composing...

Don't worry about "screwing" with the suspension settings. There is lots of information here about what to try but start in the middle of the range for each setting and go from there.

To me, your problems sound like more than suspension adjustments! I would look at the following:
1) Tire Pressure - try 40 psi front and 42 psi rear. (some people go as high as 42/44). Pressures below optimum can have a large effect on handling.
2) Check tire condition and if any doubt, replace them. Even if it doesn't look horrible, a broken belt or tire out-of-round can be a problem.
3) Front tire is more likely but rear tire can have a big effect as well.
3) Check steering head torque! Under or over can cause handling issues.
4) You mentioned some road rash. Hopefully, there is no hidden damage to the frame or forks.
5) It is quite possible that forks were "tweaked" and it is worth checking. Bike on centerstand, raise front wheel by placing jack under header pipes, loosen triple clamp and get stuff aligned. Shop manual, if you have one.

Good luck!!

 

[mcatrophy]

Here's whats going on.. I have a new to me 2010 with 11k miles on her.. I've put about 500 miles on her.. mostly at slow speeds.. I've had trouble cornering.. It feels like she's fighting in the turn.. I thought it was just that she's a totally different type of bike.. (I've only ridden my 05 VTX for 17 years now).. and that it was our Honeymoon period.. I put the rear selector on SOFT and that seemed to help her tuck in a corner.. but today after (TRYING) to get her up to highway speeds on the highway.. I Literally watched the front end float from side to side..like I was on ICE.. Right around 60 mph.. I backed her down to 50 put my hazards on and got off at the next exit.. took side roads to work with no issues.. Here's what I Know.. I Am ( thanks to the china virus) around 270 n 6'.. The front tire is a SHINKO APEX.. This bike was dropped by the previous owner as there is some road rash on the fairing right below the handlebars.. Thought's? I Am very mechanically inclined.. I do all my own work on everything I own.. partly from being poor lol but mostly cause I don;t trust anyone who's livelyhood is in my Wallet.. but this suspension stuff might be outa my league as I've gotten older.. I'm more then willing to bring to a dealership (NOT THE ONE I BOUGHT IT FROM JUST ON THE FACT THAT WHEN I ASKED THEM ABOUT THE SUSPENSION THEY SAID "THE FATCORY SEETINGS ARE JUST FINE AND YA DON'T WANNA SCREW WITH THEM") Thanks for any help or advice in advance.

Agree with two wheels, most likely the front tyre. The FJR is very fussy about the front tyre. Firstly, pressure. Some model years, Mr Yamaha recommended 36psi, others years 39. Stick with at least 39 (cold). A pressure of 36 makes it feel heavy and it requires continual countersteering through corners, 39 gives much nearer neutral steering.

I don't know the Shinko. Huge debates/arguments about the "best" tyre. For what it's worth, my personal choice is Bridgestone BT023 or T30/31. I find these give good grip, last well, and don't give up their characteristics when part worn. Many other tyres feel great when new, but deteriorate badly after about half their life. But if this turns into a tyre debate, it's destined for the dreaded NEPRT section.

 

[infrared]

Check the balance of the front tire/wheel. Also, I would want to know that the front shock oil is the correct weight/specs, and that the correct amount of oil is in the forks. What you describe as "ice" sounds spooky, but fixable.
Front tire pressure can cause poor handling. Too much, and the bike does not want to stay in a turn. Too little, and the bike falls too willingly into turns, needing effort to get upright again. 40-to 42 PSI in the front tire is a good place to start. A few PSI either way can make a real difference in handling. At the golden "sweet spot" between too much and too little PSI in the front tire, the FJR will steer almost by thought control. Your weight and tire will determine the best PSI there.
I consider a TPMS (even a cheap valve-cap version) as required gear, not optional, on the strong and heavy FJR.

 

[SwollenRaccoon]

Echoing what everyone else says...tire pressure. Check that first. I run 42/42, and have good luck with that.
That being said, she's a big heavy girl. A front tire (depending on make/model of tire...I know nothing about that front tire you have, like everyone else) that is worn will make the bike handle like a loaded cement mixer. It won't like to turn. Even with good tires, pressures, and all mechanical adjustments perfect, it's a big heavy bike with relatively narrow "handlebars", and it takes a good bit of force to get it to start turning. The more miles you get on the bike, the more it will become second nature. But, yeah, start with the front tire. Good luck.

 

[chazglenn3]

I also run 42/42

 

[Jerseydevil]

All great advice.. it wasn't nearly as nerve racking when the rear was in hard. I'll check the pressures, loosen the triple. I'll figure out how to change the fork oil, just so I know it was done. I'll be ordering new Bridgestone's very soon.. and go down the Rider Sag, dampening/ rebound rabbit hole too.. it's just the whole riding on Ice feeling that is so nerve racking.

 

[user 213]

I weigh what you do and am 5'11". When I had stock suspension on my '04 I never used soft, only hard. That lever is a pre-load adjustment and you're basically two up by the skinny Yamaha test rider's perspective. Keep in mind that more rear pre-load means the back end is up more, which quickens steering turn in.

I don't know how the '10 is set up for available adjustments to shock and fork, but it's not 'just fine' from the factory and you have no idea where it is now, since you're not the original owner. First rule of suspension adjustment is find out what setting you're at now. Back each fork off click by click, counting clicks, then run them back in an equal number. Both for rebound and compression adjusters. (you can visually see the fork preload)

Too many people back things way off to what they think is a soft setting to offset what they think is a harsh ride.

This is an old site from the Gen I days, but there is still a ton of good info there: FJR1300.info

Here is a starting point to reference:
For larger riders, set preload on top at one ring showing.
Rebound at 4 clicks out. (adjust to 2 if it's not enough)
Compression at 6 clicks out. (adjust to 4 if it's not enough)

Google FJR suspension adjustment or just CLICK ME There are some videos and good search results to help you understand how to do adjustments.

There may be more going on here, as has already been said, but start with tire pressure and suspension. If you put the front wheel up against a wall or curb and push forward, then relax, you should not here a click. If you do, the steering head bearings are quite possibly loose and need to be re-torqued. This is not a definitive test, just a clue. They can be too tight or too loose w/o making noise and there is a two step torquing process to do it correctly. The FJR1300.info link has a How To Index that covers a lot of things that still work the same over various generations of FJRs.

Good luck!

 

[Jerseydevil]

Thank you all for the help.. I'll post follow up's.. We'll/ I'll figure this thing out.. finger crossed for tire pressure.. but I have noticed what looks like some "black dust" under the steering bolt.. Perhaps the bearings are the issue.. time to order new bearings.. a shop manual and a Torque wrench.. since It's probably the only tool I don't own.. I'll be putting in a new clutch on the VTX once the weather warms up a bit, so I'll need it for that too.. Thanks again..

 

[RossKean]

Regular torque wrench and socket for the hex steering bolt but you need an adapter for the castellated bolt (underneath) that sets the force on the steering bearings.

 

[Jerseydevil]

Um Houston ,We found a problem..Idiots ..and shame on me for not catching it sooner..

 

[mcatrophy]

Um Houston ,We found a problem..Idiots ..and shame on me for not catching it sooner..

I don't think that would explain your symptoms unless you were riding on very wet roads.

 

[RossKean]

Um Houston ,We found a problem..Idiots ..and shame on me for not catching it sooner..

Fix it, test ride and continue with the other stuff. Do you know any local FJR owners? You might benefit from some side-by-side comparisons and maybe swap for a short ride.

 

[SwollenRaccoon]

Sadly, you cannot trust anything about the bike right now. Tire mounted the wrong way means the previous owner was a mental pygmy.

 

[Jerseydevil]

Unfortunately No Ross.. I'm probably the only FJ in the county lol but considering I've put 600 miles on this Shinko Apex. Backwards..gotta admit it kinda shows they're manufacturing quality. Might just buy another one.. the dealer I bought it from wants to make it right. But I live 2 hrs away.. told him it's a damn good thing I trailered this home.. I would've been in the Delaware River off of 295.. Now he wants to replace the tire.. but Id have to rent the trailer again.. Taco gets 16mpg and gas is 3.70 a gal. And it's 150 miles round trip.. it's gonna cost me more then the damn tire.. I'm just gonna order a set an have my local shop install um. Lesson learned.. "we did a full service on that".."the hell u did,the oil is Brown after 600 miles..And the tire is backwards".. To be Continued

 

[RossKean]

.. "we did a full service on that".."the hell u did,the oil is Brown after 600 miles.

I find that the oil turns dark quite quickly on the FJR. They might be honest.
Tell him to order a tire for you and you will pick it up next time you're in town. The FJR is a bit of a tire eater so you will go through a few if you do some riding. It will eventually get used.

Service they might have missed:
Bleed clutch
Bleed brakes, front and rear. The upper piston pair on the right front caliper is bled from the hand lever but the lower piston pair (separate nipple) is bled from the rear brake pedal (linked brakes). The left front caliper only has one bleeder and is bled from the hand lever. Rear brake reservoir for rear brake and lower front right piston pair is behind the right side panel.
Remove, clean and lube brake lever and clutch lever. Make sure you remove, clean and grease the brass bushing in the clutch lever that pushes the piston. It will last forever if serviced or wear out in a year or two if neglected. DOT4 for all hydraulics.
Clean and lube rear brake pivot (need to remove pedal.)
Clean and lube shift linkage.
Check air filter - change if very dirty or blow out with compressed air. Probably not bad with that mileage unless ridden in dusty areas.
Plugs and coolant probably OK still.

Lots of other stuff you COULD do but probably nothing else that is critical. Get your handling issues dealt with first.

I have a 2011 - love the silver! (Had a '07 in Black Cherry before that I sold with 186,000 miles...)

One more thing to check on the handling - make sure the wheel isn't bent.

 

[Jerseydevil]

Thanks again.. this just in. How does a front 26 psi and a rear 31 sound.. holy shit what a difference.. stupid me on the tire pressure.. stupid who ever for putting it on backwards.. the list of things you folks have put together is awesome an I will check an do all of them.. but after setting the front at 40 and the rear at 42 she's a new girl and just wants to gallop.. thanks again.

 

[RossKean]

Wow! Not surprised it handled like a pig. Worth keeping an eye on tire pressures - the FJR is fairly fussy about that.