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Parting out 2005 abs - SOLD OUT

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blufjr

blufjr
Joined
Jul 30, 2005
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PNW: Vancouver, WA
Let me know if there is something you need.  Make Offer or start negotiations at 1/4th OEM new price, plus shipping. The following don't exist anymore: Plastic not shown, Wheels, ABS unit, Saddlebags, Headlight, Speedometer, and Windshield motor. See more details below. Pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/rJMinAm

Some items shown are sold but not indicated (no time to edit).  Look at list before for items sold.

143,331 miles on most of these parts. A few parts came off the #2 - 05 with only 20K or less and I have noted these.(front shocks, fender, etc.) The engine will run, I'm sure, but I haven't been able to start it. It was turned off while on the enrichment start up and then sat for a few weeks. I have had this happen to me on the #2 FJR a couple of times and was able to get it started.

R4Hg4n9.jpg


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List of parts: Fuel Tank w/pump&cap, main Frame, LH Front Fork-20K, Cross Tube, Blower (fan), RH Front Fork-20K, Crown Handle,-Upper Triple tree, Rear Swing Arm, Battery Stay, Lower Triple Tree, Clutch Master Cly., Brake Master Cyl., Rear Seat,  Front Calipers, Tail Rack, Clutch hoses, Front Brake Hoses, Side Stand, Headlight Cord Harness, Brake Lever, Center Stand, Tail light Cord Harness, Exhaust Header, Handlebars, Cover Lower front, Lt. Muffler, Lift Handle, Panel Inner 2,Saddle bag Stays, Side Cover Rt., Eng. Intake air, blk abs Rear Fender, Side Cover Lt., Eng. Intake air, Rear Axle Gear Assembly, Eng. Throttle bodies, Drive Shaft,  Eng. Intake piping, Rear Brake Pedal, Rubber side fillers, Rear master cly, Front Fender, Radiator, Rear brake Caliper, Starter motor, Too list a few.

The following are already sold: Dash Panel 2,  Battery Box, Shock Relay Arm, Mirrors, Body Front Rt. Upper, Rear Sub Frame, Gear shift lever, Rt. Muffler, Front wheel, Rear wheel, Driver seat, Saddle bags, ABS control unit, Fork Brace, Glove box, blue windscreen cover, front and rear axles, clutch and brake levers, brake pedal, 

 
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Nothing I need but you might want to indicate mileage. Someone interested in stuff like engine, starter, rear drive or forks probably would want to know...

 
I would like the sub frame part that holds the seat, tail light. I don't really need the luggage rack or rear fender though. Thanks.

 
Another picture of parts found in the garage. After selling the front and rear wheels, I had some left over parts.

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Fork brace arrived and installed. Thanks Ken. I would have a ride report on how hard I pushed the front end with it on there, but it's on the rack apart again for the trailer hitch install. Between the new rear shock and the fork brace, I'm pretty sure I will be able to stuff it into a 100 mph sweeper at 120, fully loaded with bags and pillion and not got that annoying butt pucker speed wobbs.

Over and out.

Bruce

 
Checked my notes: Bearings were replaced at 80K and I greased them once after that, but can't say when that occurred. Are we talking bearing for this part:
or3uFUo.jpg


?Just a Question: Have you ever replaced the bearings before? Have you ever greased these bearings before?

A Note: I greased these bearing once. I had in hand one bearing and collar from the time a dealer replaced the bearings. They were pretty much stuck together and were rusted. So I jumped in and started to remove the ones that were replace at 80K sometime down the road. I pulled the collar out and the bearing were all stuck together and not rotating. I dug the roller bearings out of the almost plastic like grease. Cleaned them and the race up and put them back in with new grease (Silkolene Bearing Grease, it was red), greased the collar both sides and put it all back together. My surprise was that the roller bearings weren't fixed in the frame, they were loose so you had to stick them in there with the grease and then slide the collar in. I put it all back together and it worked fine. There wasn't any rust to deal with so I figured it was okay as when you get it all stuck together with grease, the bearing seam to work just fine. It may not be a good practice to do it this way, but that is what I did. Now I tell my mechanic to check and replace is necessary. Often they just put more grease in and don't replace the bearings.

I just went out and rotated the collars, They all move smoothly. They still may need new grease. I did not take them apart.

 
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