Procedure to R&R a rectifier/regulator?

[3dogs]

ionbeam is correct!

Checking a stator winding using an Ohmmeter is a waste of time unless the wire is cut/broken. The Stator needs to be checked in its operating condition--engine warmed up and reved up.

With the voltmeter connected as described (pervious post) your AC voltage readings should increase as engine RPM increases. Watch for the voltage to intermittently drop which would indicate a stator winding that opens, then closes it circuit under load. If you have a voltmeter that has a bar graph under the digital display it's easier to see this but closely observing the numbers should work as well.

My Motorcycle electrical book outlines the entire procedure as well as how to check the regulator. Click HERE to check it out.

 

[DaSpyda]

Well, I'm a dummy...

Since I am by myself, I kept the bike revved at 5k RPM while I checked and rechecked readings.

The dang thing overheated - the bike started peeing coolant. So I quickly decelerated to idle and then shut off the bike.

The fans were running and then I heard a "pop" and more coolant came from the front part of the bike.

Yep, go ahead and laugh out loud.

BTW, the readings were unsteady and wild.

So, I have the bike on the centerstand, and I'm not going to touch it until I get the stator in, and then I'll replace the front coolant hose at the same time - whichever one it is...

 

[billfjr]

Thanks a bunch, Bill!
I took off the side cover so I'd have easy access to the R/R plugs and some more wiring.

I placed the volt meter on the Ohm symbol and placed the red lead into the first slot on the 3-wire plug that goes to the R/R (all three wires are white).

I then placed the black lead in the middle slot and the meter fluctuated between .1 and .3, and finally settled on .1.

I then placed the black lead into the third slot, some fluctuation, and then it settled on .3.

I then placed the black lead on a bolt and it read O.L.

So, judging from your guidance, the stator must be replaced, correct?

Don

Don,

I measured my stator windings after the engine was warm 08 FJR. (Snap-on dvom measured .3 and .3) (Craftsman pro dvom measured .3 and .2) and no unwanted grounds.

The rectifier can be tested with a diode tester if your dvom has that function. There are six diodes, three positive and three negative. Disconnect the two plugs at the rectifier, connect a lead to the B+ terminal on the rectifier, then test W1, W2, & W3. Reverse the leads and repeat the test. One direction will read OL on the three terminals, the other will show voltage on the three terminals.

Move the leads to B- terminals and repeat the test. My diodes on the B+ side read .149 V and on B- .458 V (If you have voltage in both directions or OL in both directions the diode is bad) replace rectifier0

Battery voltage at idle 13.9 V @ 15 amps

Battery voltage at 2000 rpm 14.3 V @ 23 amps (hi-beam and flashers on)

Bill

 

[DaSpyda]

The fans were running and then I heard a "pop" and more coolant came from the front part of the bike.
Yep, go ahead and laugh out loud.

BTW, the readings were unsteady and wild.

So, I have the bike on the centerstand, and I'm not going to touch it until I get the stator in, and then I'll replace the front coolant hose at the same time - whichever one it is...

Fairings off, inspected hoses...nothing.

Looks like the top of the overflow tank popped out.

 

[DaSpyda]

Finally got the stator delivered...after two weeks.

Looks like the stator was the issue of no charging...

Those three screws with the 25mm Torx head are a real pain.

I haven't installed the new one, yet, as I have one screw that's giving me fits.

 

[RadioHowie]

Finally got the stator delivered...after two weeks.
Looks like the stator was the issue of no charging...

Those three screws with the 25mm Torx head are a real pain.

I haven't installed the new one, yet, as I have one screw that's giving me fits.

 

[S76]

If you are using a Torx apex bit, put it in a 1/4" socket on a 1/4" extension on give it a firm rap with a hammer. Not a godzilla blow, and not a love tap. A few raps and it will almost always loosen the screw so you can remove it. If you are using a torx screwdriver that may not work, or you'll bust the handle. The apex in the 1/4 drive will transmit the force better.

 

[DaSpyda]

Thanks for all the help, guys!!!

Everything is in, working perfectly, and I'm back on the road!

 

[DaSpyda]

Could someone take a few minutes to outline the procedure to remove and replace it?

Gen II, located at the rear, bottom of the engine in the neighborhood of the ABS unit. Unplug the two connectors, they will have clips that retain them. Remove the two nuts that hold the R/R to the bracket. Remove. Reverse the procedure with a new R/R.

Alan, your Inbox is full so I couldn't send this:

I wanted to take a moment to personally thank you for helping with my charging issue. It was the stator, after all, and I think the combo of extreme heat and running the driving lights 100% was the beginning of the end.

Your valuable advice helped me diagnose and repair the issue myself, and I learned more about my ride - and saved a TON in labor costs!

Ride safely, and blessings on ya!

Don

 

[ionbeam]

...Alan, your Inbox is full so I couldn't send this:
I wanted to take a moment to personally thank you for helping...It was the stator...running the driving lights 100% was the beginning of the end...Ride safely, and blessings on ya!

You're welcome! Glad it turned out to have a definite root cause and a clear solution. Every dead stator that I've seen (so far) has burned at the same coil junction where power feeds into the stator windings.

Glad you are back on the road!

(I was on a Perfect Ride to Sag Harbor with FredW and Cota95 to visit TheAxeman for a couple o' days, I've dynamited the log jam at my In Box so Messages will be accepted again, at least for another day or two )