Relay for starter

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palerider

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Hi,

I'm having my start switch replaced (under YES), and I've asked the shop to install a relay. The mechanic says he doesn't know which one to use, and I realized I don't either. Does it need to be a certain spec to carry the current that goes through the start switch?

 
Hi,
I'm having my start switch replaced (under YES), and I've asked the shop to install a relay. The mechanic says he doesn't know which one to use, and I realized I don't either. Does it need to be a certain spec to carry the current that goes through the start switch?

I asked the same thing awhile back. A good quality 30 amp relay ought to work. There is some question on just how much load is carried by the switch. I have the realy but haven't got around to installing yet. Winter is coming.

The other thins is that the relay won't do any good when the switch fails or the wires fall off.

 
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Try these guys for a relay--keefeperformance.com I'm using a Bosch 75 amp dual contact relay[bosch part # 0 332 002 15?] with suppressor[so as not to bother my Escort]. I've had the cheap little box relays fail and don't want to create another possible failure point. I let the ignition switch take care of the small blue wires as before-I don't think they carry much current.

 
"I let the ignition switch take care of the small blue wires as before-I don't think they carry much current. "

This is true, but if that set of contacts become intermittent, the bike will still cut out.

My 05 does and I've confirmed with an ohmmeter that the switch is funky and getting worse.

IMHO, if you're doing a relay fix, the double pole relay is the way to go for both sets of contacts.

 
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Try these guys for a relay--keefeperformance.com I'm using a Bosch 75 amp dual contact relay[bosch part # 0 332 002 15?] with suppressor[so as not to bother my Escort]. I've had the cheap little box relays fail and don't want to create another possible failure point. I let the ignition switch take care of the small blue wires as before-I don't think they carry much current.
Thanks, all. I ordered a Tyco relay from keefeperformance.com.

 
"I let the ignition switch take care of the small blue wires as before-I don't think they carry much current. "
This is true, but if that set of contacts become intermittent, the bike will still cut out.

My 05 does and I've confirmed with an ohmmeter that the switch is funky and getting worse.

IMHO, if your doing a relay fix, the double pole relay is the way to go for both sets of contacts.
I'm thinking that the small wires are isolated from the high current wires for a reason-according to the schematic they go directly to the ECU. Using the same terminals on the relay to switch both sets of wires might send a spike to the ECU- I could be wrong on this?

 
"Using the same terminals on the relay to switch both sets of wires might send a spike to the ECU"

You need a double pole single throw (DPST) relay.

A DPST is two separate switches driven by a single coil in one relay, or you could use another small SPST relay for the small wires.

 
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Makes sense- thanks for that! Will do this today- while I'm in there I'm going to see if the spare lock cylinder that comes with the bike will fit in the ignition switch. I want to go back to one key.

 
Makes sense- thanks for that! Will do this today- while I'm in there I'm going to see if the spare lock cylinder that comes with the bike will fit in the ignition switch. I want to go back to one key.
Forget the spare lock cylinder-won't work in the ignition lock- it's a shorter simpler cylinder...Looks like a trip to the locksmith.

 
Makes sense- thanks for that! Will do this today- while I'm in there I'm going to see if the spare lock cylinder that comes with the bike will fit in the ignition switch. I want to go back to one key.
Forget the spare lock cylinder-won't work in the ignition lock- it's a shorter simpler cylinder...Looks like a trip to the locksmith.

Inewif,

Any good locksmith will be able to change out the tumblers in the ignition switch with the tumblers from the spare lock cylinder. If you're lucky the tumblers in the key lock cylinder just need rearranging and you won't need to violate the spare. If you still have the original ignition key lock just drill out the security screws and swap out the guts of the electrical switch itself.

Give it a try.

Brodie

 
I'd be tempted to take the headlights circuit off the ignition switch. That would remove 9 or 10 amps from the switch. Fuse this circuit directly to the battery or the regulator output and let the existing headlight relays do their job. Remove the headlights fuse in the fusebox and tap into the headlights circuit upstream of the relays.

With a significantly reduced load the ignition switch would no longer be a problem and a relay wouldn't be needed.

 
I'd be tempted to take the headlights circuit off the ignition switch. That would remove 9 or 10 amps from the switch.With a significantly reduced load the ignition switch would no longer be a problem and a relay wouldn't be needed.
My low current switch contacts to the ECU are the intermittent ones, the switch just plain sucks.
 
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