ANZAC
Well-known member
That's good to know - 30 miles per bar as mine went 32 miles the other day pulling off of full. Still getting to know this bike
Seriously bad gas mileage.
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That's good to know - 30 miles per bar as mine went 32 miles the other day pulling off of full. Still getting to know this bike
RichDoyle
Well-known member
The first bar can easily vary to me because of variation in how full I replenish the tank. There's that filler tube in there, but I find I can have variances of a couple tenths based on my judgement of where the level of fuel is relative to the bottom of that tube. Since a tenth of a gallon is worth about 4 gallons, you can see the uncertainty of when it hits 30 miles. So to make this work, you need real discipline on where you cut it off.That's good to know - 30 miles per bar as mine went 32 miles the other day pulling off of full. Still getting to know this bike
Chuck35
Well-known member
TomInPA
Well-known member
I know this is a stretch, but it is "winter" and you never know when a critter might be making habitat in an air filter. No air can really make fuel mileage suck. Might be worth a check.
RichDoyle
Well-known member
Doh! Of course I meant a tenth of a gallon amounts to 4 miles.The first bar can easily vary to me because of variation in how full I replenish the tank. There's that filler tube in there, but I find I can have variances of a couple tenths based on my judgement of where the level of fuel is relative to the bottom of that tube. Since a tenth of a gallon is worth about 4 gallons, you can see the uncertainty of when it hits 30 miles. So to make this work, you need real discipline on where you cut it off.That's good to know - 30 miles per bar as mine went 32 miles the other day pulling off of full. Still getting to know this bike
It's a K&N filter. Just looked at it, it was dirty, but then K&N's work best when dirty, don't they? It wasn't filthy and clogged with critter stuff, so probably OK, I gave it a cleaning anyway.
Didn't get around to lifting the tank and taking a peep at the spark plugs. Maybe later this week, some stupid stuff called work gets in the way..
Didn't get around to lifting the tank and taking a peep at the spark plugs. Maybe later this week, some stupid stuff called work gets in the way..
My fuel gauge is totally non-linear. I would never be able to assign a certain number of miles per bar as the first half of the tank represents 120-130 miles and the second half is only 80-90 miles.That's good to know - 30 miles per bar as mine went 32 miles the other day pulling off of full. Still getting to know this bike
But I do know that normally (during the summer months) I get 200-220 miles to flashing reserve and can easily get another 50 miles after that. This is right around 40 mpg. In the winter it isn't unusual to go on reserve flash at only 180-190 miles. (37-38 mpg)
FJRBluesman
Some call me... The STIG!
Just a few words to others on maintaining your ride and understanding its health.
Sam does a good thing here and keeps track of his mileage. This is one of many indicators to tell if something is possibly wrong with the bike when all else seems fine. Just like reading plugs, etc, a drop in mileage can indicate problems of many sorts that one would need to be trouble shoot to figure out. The main thing here is it's telling you something is possibly wrong. Pay attention to it. If you don't track your mileage you should.
Granted riding style varies and so will mileage. If you do commute for example and are pretty consistent in speed etc, you have a steady and reliable health indicator in mileage.
On the flip side one tank of off mileage won't say much due to variability in riding etc. But a constant lower mileage after many months of steady 38-42 (just an example of mileage, YMMV) mpg should get your attention.
Thanks for the input Sam!
Sam does a good thing here and keeps track of his mileage. This is one of many indicators to tell if something is possibly wrong with the bike when all else seems fine. Just like reading plugs, etc, a drop in mileage can indicate problems of many sorts that one would need to be trouble shoot to figure out. The main thing here is it's telling you something is possibly wrong. Pay attention to it. If you don't track your mileage you should.
Granted riding style varies and so will mileage. If you do commute for example and are pretty consistent in speed etc, you have a steady and reliable health indicator in mileage.
On the flip side one tank of off mileage won't say much due to variability in riding etc. But a constant lower mileage after many months of steady 38-42 (just an example of mileage, YMMV) mpg should get your attention.
Thanks for the input Sam!
gixxerjasen
Well-known member
If you've been living under a rock, then you haven't found fuelly.com yet. Great place to keep track of your mileage. They have a lot of ways to enter your info, and it's really good for perusing real world mpg's when shopping for a new vehicle.
I keep a log book in my bike and then every few fillups I update fuelly. You can see the link to mine in my sig.
I keep a log book in my bike and then every few fillups I update fuelly. You can see the link to mine in my sig.
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
Being a seriously anal type of anorak, I also keep a fuel log. So far it's shown me that my milage is affected by the type of riding. WOW
.
My gauge has the annoying feature that i only get about nine miles between the gauge going to one bar, and the bar starting to flash, which is not very useful. So i started investigations into linearising the gauge, but I found that the sender bottoms out with about five litres left.
(Click on image for larger view)
So there was little I could do to provide that all important "miles to walking" information (I didn't try bending the sender, didn't know where that might lead).
My gauge has the annoying feature that i only get about nine miles between the gauge going to one bar, and the bar starting to flash, which is not very useful. So i started investigations into linearising the gauge, but I found that the sender bottoms out with about five litres left.
(Click on image for larger view)
So there was little I could do to provide that all important "miles to walking" information (I didn't try bending the sender, didn't know where that might lead).
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SoCalFJR1300
Well-known member
What octane fuel do you use?
The FJR was designed to run fine on 87.
I read in a mechanics trade magazine years ago that if you put "Super" or 91/93 octane in a vehicle that was designed to run on 87 you can cause carbon deposits to form.
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SoCalFJR1300
Well-known member
You should be getting at LEAST high 30's.......if you're barely getting 30MPG somethings wrong!Damn, I"m luck to get 30
You may have read that, but it is total nonsense. The only negative effect of using premium gas in a vehicle that doesn't require it is to your wallet.
SoCalFJR1300
Well-known member
Like I said it was in a mechanics trade magazine and it was written by an industry professional......I've heard that before to.
Why do you say it's "total nonsense" and where did you get your info from?
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PC - not sure which chevron you are using but i regularly fill up in the one opposite work. I am getting 40+ average mileage - not riding aggressively. Did a ride a couple of weeks ago and got 44 on two fill ups (one chevron one shell) riding hwy 49 south and back.
FWIW
FWIW
SoCalFJR1300
Well-known member
Fred...here's one explanation...............
The Octane reading is a formula based on Density. The higher the octane, the higher the density. Lower density liquid fuels are more volatile and less explosive than higher ones. This is seen in the use of gas, diesel fuel, and that of nitromethane on race cars. The Higher density fuels (like diesel and the nitromethane) are less volatile, but far more explosive. In a cumbustion cycle, fuel is not 100% burned, therefore the higher density fuels will have a higher percentage of unburned fuel during the combustion cycle, which will create more carbon.
Lower density, less power, less carbon.
Higher density, more power, more carbon.
The Octane reading is a formula based on Density. The higher the octane, the higher the density. Lower density liquid fuels are more volatile and less explosive than higher ones. This is seen in the use of gas, diesel fuel, and that of nitromethane on race cars. The Higher density fuels (like diesel and the nitromethane) are less volatile, but far more explosive. In a cumbustion cycle, fuel is not 100% burned, therefore the higher density fuels will have a higher percentage of unburned fuel during the combustion cycle, which will create more carbon.
Lower density, less power, less carbon.
Higher density, more power, more carbon.
ionbeam
2 FUN
Hmm, premium Top Tier Gasoline typically comes with extra detergent additives. It is true that it is a waste of money to run a higher octane fuel than what is required to stop knocking (knocking disclaimer: used as a generic term here which may not be technically accurate in all cases).
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gixxerjasen
Well-known member
Higher density when the engine is designed for it will result in more power. However, if your higher octane gas in an engine designed for lower octane ends up with more unburned fuel during the combustion cycle, then wouldn't that result in less power? This is how I've read it in the past and is one more reason to not use higher octane fuels in a vehicle that isn't designed for it. Or am I reading that incorrectly?
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