Should I purchase aftermarket fork springs...

[Patriot]

If given, my '04 will be on the road sometime soon, I'm planning to do some things to make the bike VERY roadworthy along with the new used engine (swap). Maintenance items are new steering head bearings, coolant, stock shock, tires. I'm wondering if I should change the fork springs (on a tight budget) to improve and update the suspension. I know changing the springs on my cruiser to progressives was a great improvement and cured excessive diving upon braking.

I checked out ohlins springs and they are expensive. The Sonic Springs seem a reasonable price.

Anyone want to advise on whether I should even replace the fork springs and either way, what brand/weight fork oil do you recommend? I'm 5'9.5" and 200#. In the past on the cruiser, I've used Bel Ray 15w mostly.

Again, I'm on a tight budget and don't see doing a new or used aftermarket shock or a fork "kit" upgrade.

TIA,

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[Bustanut joker]

FWIW Mike, Buzzard nuts Bearly (crotchety old bastard) had his done last spring before he came here and said the difference was night and day.. IIRC GP Suspension did the work, can't recall what the springs were but It was only around a hunnert bucks for 'em..

Seems like he did well over two thousand miles on it before he got here.

:jester:

 

[HaulinAshe]

Call these folks. Get the "kit" that does both front and rear.

HyperPro at EPM

 

[madmike2]

I had mine replaced when having a leaking fork seal repaired. I ordered "linear" rather than "progressive". IIRC, they're Eibach springs.

The mechanic (who I trust implicitly) said the internals were fine. Plus, being a cheap bastage thrifty gentleman, I didn't want to spend the amount of money it would take to replace the valving, etc. We raised the viscosity 1 "notch", IIRC, from 5w to 7.5w. That's been a good enough improvement for me. The bike doesn't nose dive under braking like it did with the very tired OEM fork springs and the adjustments (rebound, compression) actually work now.

The above works for my style of riding: moderately aggressive touring. YMMV.

 

[FJRay]

I got Eibach springs from GP suspension and with 7.5 wt oil they made a wonderfull improvement. Cost right at a hundred bucks.

 

[dcarver]

I'm a GP Suspension fan. More than 100 bucks, but what an incredible difference. If you have the bucks, call Dave.

 

[v65]

Never ask this forum if you should spend money on your FJR, I think we have a bunch of mortgage lenders around here.

 

[madmike2]

Never ask this forum if you should spend money on your FJR, I think we have a bunch of mortgage lenders around here.

I am a proud member of the "collective". I was assimilated in '03. I am also an enabler....I LOVE to help spend other people's money.

Go ahead, buy the front suspension parts....you deserve it and it will feel sooooo good. :yahoo:

:rofl:

 

[rickysnickers]

I'm a GP Suspension fan. More than 100 bucks, but what an incredible difference. If you have the bucks, call Dave.

Ditto on that one!

Rick

 

[glory racing]

Hey Mike,

My short answer would be Probably not.

Suspension tuning is different for every bike and rider. Just because someone uses a certain spring/oil weight/level/valving with the clickers set at 8 and 8 out...does not mean that will work for you. Unfortuantely the best way to really know your particular spring needs is after you have correctly set the sag. If you have to dial in all the preload to get the sag within the limits, your spring is to soft. Conversely, if it takes no preload to get the sag in the desired range, your current spring rate is to hard. Correctly setting the front and rear sag is where you MUST begin to get a good setup.

This is the simplified answer as there are a lot of things that effect the on road function of suspensions. For example, on your ride you would probably need a heavier spring on the right fork to compensate for the weight of your horn!!! If you are good at knowing the symptoms of your ride and can remember how it was responding to corners...We could discuss some of the on road effects of incorrect spring rates to help you decide.

Since budget is a priority, I would suspect that a simple fork fluid change would do you. I use 10W and slightly raise the level to help in the lower range of the stroke.

Good luck.

 

[Patriot]

For example, on your ride you would probably need a heavier spring on the right fork to compensate for the weight of your horn!!!
Good luck.

Another amateur attempt at being a comedian... <_<

Well, thanx, I think...

 

[Toecutter]

For example, on your ride you would probably need a heavier spring on the right fork to compensate for the weight of your horn!!!

I ordered "linear" rather than "progressive".

Why, if I may ask? Progressive sounds way cooler....

 

[Grumpy]

Listen to Haulin, cause I think he's right!\

jim

 

[ian]

I got a Penske rear shock and Eibach fork springs a couple of years ago. The Penske was a huge improvement. I'm not too happy with the fork springs. When I get back from this trip, I'll be changing the fork oil and putting the stock (04) springs back in. BTW, what wt Bell-Ray do you suggest with the stock springs; I put the suggested 10 wt in with the Eibachs? TIA Ian, Iowa

 

[madmike2]

I ordered "linear" rather than "progressive".

Why, if I may ask? Progressive sounds way cooler....

Because I always do things a little different than the "average bear".

Aaaaannnddd because I had progressive springs on my Connie. With the nose dive my FJR experienced during "normal" braking I, after discussion with a mechanic I trust, decided I could live with a little stiffer ride if the fork springs would maintain a linear response during suspension travel under all riding conditions, including emergency stops. Now my bike doesn't play "porpoise" during braking. Of course an underlying issue is my size and normal loads (fuel cell, etc.), even when commuting.

YMMV.

And, Bob, you've ridden my bike with the aftermarket springs. You didn't seem "put off" by the front end response to your riding style.

One could probably save even more money by simply replacing their fork springs with a new set of OEM springs. IIRC, Rogdeb replaced the springs in his '03 with a new set from an '04. There is a difference in the spring rate between those years.

Edit: I am not, nor do I pretend to be, a knowledgeable suspension person. I've never ridden sport bikes, I have never "properly" set up my bike for "spirited" riding. I only know what works for me and how any improvements "feel".

 

[worldbound4now]

FWIW, my experience was an amazing difference in swapping out stock with hyperpro progressive fork springs for my 05. I've had them in for about 20K mi. now and still love them.

 

[Toecutter]

And, Bob, you've ridden my bike with the aftermarket springs. You didn't seem "put off" by the front end response to your riding style.

I rode it, but I didn't "ride" it, like I ride my own, especially since I was in funeral mode. It felt pretty stiff, which I attributed to being set up for handling more weight.

Jeff, did you mean to recommend the linear, or progressive springs? I like the price ($259.00) on that HyperPro kit. Didn't think one could upgrade the OEM shock with an aftermarket spring....

 

[Panman]

And, Bob, you've ridden my bike with the aftermarket springs. You didn't seem "put off" by the front end response to your riding style.

I rode it, but I didn't "ride" it, like I ride my own, especially since I was in funeral mode. It felt pretty stiff, which I attributed to being set up for handling more weight.

Jeff, did you mean to recommend the linear, or progressive springs? I like the price ($259.00) on that HyperPro kit. Didn't think one could upgrade the OEM shock with an aftermarket spring....

When I rode with Jeff after CFR he told me that you replace the spring and throw away the pre load ajuster.

 

[JR'SFJR]

I just ordered Hyperpro fork springs. One fork seal is leaking after 36K, so I will install during the rebuild. I have the Yama parts, but have been on the fence about purchasing the springs. Will see?