slow speed manuveurs

[Gadi]

Was in the parking lot practicing slow speed turns (is that an oxymoron) through an obstacle course of cones at 3-5 km/h. So the instructor was telling me a little throttle, feel the friction on the clutch and use the rear brake to stress the chassis so you can turn like a tricycle. I have an 06 with the linked brakes. So I understand the theory, but if I apply the rear I assume I am getting a little bit of the front. So I found it tough to make the really tight turns. Maybe a combination of the weight, longer wheel base. I don’t know. All I know is that when I tried it on a smaller bike without linked brakes it was a cinch. Any thoughts or any other techniques to get through some tight turns at a very slow pace.

Gadi

 

[E1Allen]

I went through a course where it was all low speed turns. Although I didn't use much of the brake. I mostly gave the engine more revs while keeping the clutch half in. When I needed more acceleration, I let out on the clutch a little more. Worked fine for very tight turns at low speeds.

 

[evilmedic13]

Not much to say other than practice practice practice, only way to be proficient in anything, unless you're married.

 

[FJRandy]

So I found it tough to make the really tight turns. Maybe a combination of the weight, longer wheel base. I don’t know.

That front 'stone that's already cupping isn't helping any. Makes the front end want to drop into the turn too far at slow speeds.

 

[Wicked Webby]

Yes Indeed!!

Trail braking is a maneuver used to suck the front end down and bike over to accomplish tight maneuvers and used for sudden speed turns(like switch backs). It is very effective as long as you keep power delivery to your rear tire(known as your gray area between your throttle and clutch). If you lose power to the rear tire while trail braking you can easily dump the bike. Yes, it is not as effective on a bike with linked brakes.

 

[Gadi]

Yes Indeed!!
Trail braking is a maneuver used to suck the front end down and bike over to accomplish tight maneuvers and used for sudden speed turns(like switch backs). It is very effective as long as you keep power delivery to your rear tire(known as your gray area between your throttle and clutch). If you lose power to the rear tire while trail braking you can easily dump the bike. Yes, it is not as effective on a bike with linked brakes.

More practice, I just hope it is not at the expense of replacing any mirrors or other plastic parts. Certainly can tell the really good riders who can manuveur in tight spaces without having to put their feet down.

 

[Wicked Webby]

Yes Indeed!!
Trail braking is a maneuver used to suck the front end down and bike over to accomplish tight maneuvers and used for sudden speed turns(like switch backs). It is very effective as long as you keep power delivery to your rear tire(known as your gray area between your throttle and clutch). If you lose power to the rear tire while trail braking you can easily dump the bike. Yes, it is not as effective on a bike with linked brakes.

More practice, I just hope it is not at the expense of replacing any mirrors or other plastic parts. Certainly can tell the really good riders who can manuveur in tight spaces without having to put their feet down.

True....Also..... You'll know someone who really really rides well when you see them balance stopping their bike. At stop lights or in traffic they will be able to balance their bike stopped without their feet down on the ground for more than just a few seconds. This takes balance and slight throttle/clutch(gray area) while using the rear brake. Once you get real good at it, you can practice by almost never put your feet down in traffic by transitioning left to right or vice-versa or bumping forward (slightly less than a foot or so) and switching back and fourth your direction using the aspects of trail braking and your gray area. Doesn't mean your Any kinda racer but sure shows you know how to handle your bike. Ya, when you see riders using their feet as training wheels getting going or stopping, you know they are squids and stay away from um!!!!

 

[James Burleigh]

The most important technique is to look all the way around and through to where you want to go. Once you are focused on where you want to go, and not looking at the ground, it's amazing how all the balance and throttle issues fall into place. On top of that, you want to use a lot of friction zone and, the tighter the turn, the more you want to counter balance by sliding your butt off the saddle opposite direction of turn. Not sure why you're dabbing at your brakes.... I use my rear brake in tight traffic when I'm trying to get through (up between) slow-moving cars. But not doing a tight u-turn.

 

[JohnB]

Was in the parking lot practicing slow speed turns (is that an oxymoron) through an obstacle course of cones at 3-5 km/h. So the instructor was telling me a little throttle, feel the friction on the clutch and use the rear brake to stress the chassis so you can turn like a tricycle. I have an 06 with the linked brakes. So I understand the theory, but if I apply the rear I assume I am getting a little bit of the front. So I found it tough to make the really tight turns. Gadi

One of the great things about the linked braking on the '06-'07 is that it is only activated by heavy pressure on the pedal. Light pressure on the pedal doesn't activate linking with the front. This feature facilitates the use of trail braking with the rear brake alone. I find my '06 brakes leave nothing to be desired in terms of function. My only beef is the "bucket of bolts" noise from the front pads rattling in the calipers over rough roads.

 

[Gadi]

The most important technique is to look all the way around and through to where you want to go. Once you are focused on where you want to go, and not looking at the ground, it's amazing how all the balance and throttle issues fall into place. On top of that, you want to use a lot of friction zone and, the tighter the turn, the more you want to counter balance by sliding your butt off the saddle opposite direction of turn. Not sure why you're dabbing at your brakes.... I use my rear brake in tight traffic when I'm trying to get through (up between) slow-moving cars. But not doing a tight u-turn.

Yes it seems as in many things in motorcycling it comes down to where you are looking. Look at the ground and that is where you tend to end up, look forward to where you want to go and chances are that you will make it through. Thanks for the tips will get out and practice, practice, practise.

 

[Bounce]

Was in the parking lot practicing slow speed turns (is that an oxymoron) through an obstacle course of cones at 3-5 km/h. So the instructor was telling me a little throttle, feel the friction on the clutch and use the rear brake to stress the chassis so you can turn like a tricycle. I have an 06 with the linked brakes. So I understand the theory, but if I apply the rear I assume I am getting a little bit of the front. So I found it tough to make the really tight turns. Maybe a combination of the weight, longer wheel base. I don’t know. All I know is that when I tried it on a smaller bike without linked brakes it was a cinch. Any thoughts or any other techniques to get through some tight turns at a very slow pace.Gadi

i used those techniques on Wings (that have more integration than the FJR). the proportioning valve means that LIGHT rear brake avoids kicking in the front while doing a little trail braking. works on the FJR and the Wings to help stablize the chassis. You found it easier on the smaller bike because it's a smaller bike.

 

[James Burleigh]

Just posted a video of slow-speed maneuvers under the images category. Here's the YouTube link.

 

[NightShine]

Just posted a video of slow-speed maneuvers under the images category. Here's the YouTube link.

I particularly like the segment at the end of the video showing the more efficient technique that doesn't waste time with that slow stuff!

 

[Dan23]

So I understand the theory, but if I apply the rear I assume I am getting a little bit of the front.

You only get the one front pad's friction IF you apply the rear more than a set amount of pedal pressure. Going straight and applying the rear, you should be able to feel that set amount of pressure. Once you get the feel, you should be able to apply less than that amount while using the rear to settle the chassis.

Install a G2 if you have not already.

 

[Gadi]

So I understand the theory, but if I apply the rear I assume I am getting a little bit of the front.

You only get the one front pad's friction IF you apply the rear more than a set amount of pedal pressure. Going straight and applying the rear, you should be able to feel that set amount of pressure. Once you get the feel, you should be able to apply less than that amount while using the rear to settle the chassis.

Install a G2 if you have not already.

Sorry I don't know what a G2 is

 

[cougar8000]

Gadi,

Put your weight on the outside of the turn. Yes, move your tush and the upper body. Run roughly 3K on rpm fixate it i.e. hold it steady. Use your clutch as a speed control. Pressing on the rear brake. Turn your head and find your 6. make sure your 6 is not on the ground but about 6 feet above ground. as you approach 60%+ of the turn start easing out the clutch a bit more to regain balance and straight forward motion.

 

[feejer222]

1. Lots of revs so she wont stall

2. Slip the clutch to the half bite point

3. Control the forward motion with rear brake (linked or not works perfectly).

4. Turn as tightly and as slowly as you want with or without pillion.

Not put my feet down for 30 years......really really need to pee!