steering head bearing - upgrade and torqueing

[MajBach]

So now that my rear axle is back on, I removed the front one in order to change my steering head bearings. This is the first time I've ever attempted this job and alos the first time they have been done on this bike (2009 with 80,000 miles). Up until now, I've followed the "if it ain't broken, don't fix it" approach but I'm installing the MV Riser plate so I thought what the hell and went ahead and ordered the spanner tool and the needle bearings from AllBalls. I have everything disassembled to the point where the steering shaft can slide down but I haven't yet figured how to get it all past that black plastic plate that all the brake lines go through. Now I am reconsidering just because of the extra work I've seen installing the needle bearing can be.

Upon inspection, both the top and bottom bearings and races were in factory condition - well better than factory since Ive read the bearings are notorious for coming out of the factory inadequately packed. Before disassembly there was zero play in the column. The only thing I have noticed is occasionally - and this spans back years - Ive observed a minor shudder in the front end when braking. So, I;m thinking of leaving well enough alone and keeping the original bearings. Is there any reason why they should be changed despite the apparent good condition?

Finally, regarding torqueing: The torques specs for seating and setting, does that take into account that the torque wrench isn't really centered? When I start thinking moment arms and leverage etc, something doesn't computer when torqueing off axis.

Thanks again

 

[RossKean]

Read the following regarding torque wrench offset: (it isn't an issue!!)

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/173088-steering-head-socket-vs-spanner-for-setting-torque/

Personally, I don't feel a compelling need to change steering stem bearings. Some people claim vast improvement but there was a recent discussion where someone had problems with the All Balls tapered bearings. Read this:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/176487-gonna-do-tapered-head-bearings/

and some of the linked information as well.

All Balls vs Timken vs SKF bearing sources...

Torque, problems and other stuff.

I don't think that the "shudder" on braking has anything to do with the head bearings. There has been some speculation but some people seem to think it has to do with the brake pads passing over ventilation holes in the disk. Maybe that or some sort of harmonic between pads and rotors. Who knows but it doesn't hurt anything or diminish braking effectiveness.

I have thought about doing the steering stem bearings but I am not having any issues currently and hope it stays that way. Maybe after I am retired and have lots of time on my hands. (Next year, I hope.)

 

[rbentnail]

There are significant differences between needle bearings (you say that's what you got) and tapered roller bearings. You should be using the latter.