Steering Head Roller Bearing - Upgrade or Boondoogle?
- Thread starter Patent1
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
I just did mine on my 07 yesterday. I went with the Pivot Works kit from all balls due to they say the bearings are NOT from China, I have my doubts, I was going to get the Timkin 32006X Bearings but could not locate the seals for it. after I got the Pivot Works kit i was able to get a part # E5279 off the bag from the kit for next time, hope that info helps a few people. In my opinion toughest part of the job was seating lower race into frame tried all thread with washers did not work started pulling threads. Ended up using the old race and a air hammer working it slowly around to finally get it seated. Original bottom race on stem had to Dremel down almost all the way through and hit with cold chisel to crack it. put stem in freezer for a few hours heated new bearing to 200 with heat gun and dropped on using old cracked race upside down and pvc to seat worked easier then I expected. overall took me about 4-5 hours
MotoMike
Well-known member
Sorry it took so long to answer these.
1-I did not remove the fairing.
2-I did not have to remove the radiator to get the steering stem out.
FWIW - when I did mine, I removed the tank. Not because you have to, just because it is worth the extra 5 minutes to not worry about banging anything into it while you are pulling and installing bearing races.
I did also good time to change spark plugs
Coachpilot
Active member
Has ANYONE gone to tapered roller bearings and seen no improvement?? Seriously, I'm wondering if I have a 50-50 shot to fix the awful head shake. or maybe more like 99-1??
rbentnail
Economic Plankton
I've never heard someone complain that roller bearings didn't fix or that they worsened the problem.
Coachpilot
Active member
That's A LOT OF CONSISTENCY for improvement. Just added another task to the maintenance list.
Thanks everyone.
VAcracker
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What final torque spec did you use for the bearings. I’ve seen different responses from 13-19 lbs.
I have never used a torque wrench on a tapered bearing in my life. Grease it up, torque it down until you are sure the grease is not making it float and adjust it by feel.
If I remember right I think I read torque it up to 30, unwind it and then torque it to 15-19.
Or you can tighten it while you move the bars lock to lock (front wheel off the ground) until you feel resistance in the bars.
Or you can tighten it while you move the bars lock to lock (front wheel off the ground) until you feel resistance in the bars.
rbentnail
Economic Plankton
I found adding 25-30% to the FSM spec works fine.
RossKean
Well-known member
Avoid over tightening. You may damage the bearings and races but also steering becomes somewhat vague - bike won't want to hold a line and will need constant correction. Had this happen on a different bike I bought (used). I was regretting my purchase until I backed off the adjustment nut a quarter turn. Instant improvement. I set it properly afterward. Steering didn't FEEL particularly tight but you could feel some resistance with the bike on the centerstand and the front wheel lifted off the ground.
Like Whooshka I set my tapered bearings with the front end off the ground, lock to lock until resistance is felt and then back off slightly, Seems to work fine.
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