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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
stripped drain bolt
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<blockquote data-quote="v65" data-source="post: 215639" data-attributes="member: 1773"><p>The crush washer is made of a softer material than the pan and drain bolt. This allows it form more closely to the two surfaces, preventing leakage. This creates tiny little "dents" in the washer, which you can't see but are there. When you reuse it, unless you manage to somehow get it in the exact same orientation, it has these dents and forms some new ones. So in theory you should change the washer every time, as the washers ability to form a perfect seal is reduced.</p><p></p><p>In practice I have used the same crush repeatedly on my car with no leaks. BTW, the crush washer is there for leakage protection, nothing else. So if it ain't leaking, the washer is working <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> The way to check for leakage is to start with a very clean area surrounding the drain bolt - I use WD-40 to clean the area. Assuming there are no leaks while sitting, go out and run the engine as normal for 10-20 minutes to check for leaks with some oil pressure (so run it in the higher rpm's - honest officer I was just checking to make sure the engine is OK). As you do this make some stops, if the area is still dry you should be good to go, although periodic checks are in order thereafter.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="v65, post: 215639, member: 1773"] The crush washer is made of a softer material than the pan and drain bolt. This allows it form more closely to the two surfaces, preventing leakage. This creates tiny little "dents" in the washer, which you can't see but are there. When you reuse it, unless you manage to somehow get it in the exact same orientation, it has these dents and forms some new ones. So in theory you should change the washer every time, as the washers ability to form a perfect seal is reduced. In practice I have used the same crush repeatedly on my car with no leaks. BTW, the crush washer is there for leakage protection, nothing else. So if it ain't leaking, the washer is working :) The way to check for leakage is to start with a very clean area surrounding the drain bolt - I use WD-40 to clean the area. Assuming there are no leaks while sitting, go out and run the engine as normal for 10-20 minutes to check for leaks with some oil pressure (so run it in the higher rpm's - honest officer I was just checking to make sure the engine is OK). As you do this make some stops, if the area is still dry you should be good to go, although periodic checks are in order thereafter. [/QUOTE]
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FJR Motorcycle Forums
Technical & Mechanical Problems
stripped drain bolt
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