TBS on 06

[borrec]

I did my first TBS on my 06. I was hoping I could do it without removing the tank, but that number 2 nipple and cover is next to impossible to get to. I was able to remove the new heat shield with the tank and T-bar still on the bike. It was definitely easier with the tank off. I have 2 questions though:

1. Is there any problems with leaving off the little clamps for the sync port covers? The other hose on the throttle body doesn't have them.

2. Does anyone know of a device to run tubes from the ports to a single access point or has someone got a good way to configure something to ease the TBS process?

Thanks.

 

[ionbeam]

1. Is there any problems with leaving off the little clamps for the sync port covers? The other hose on the throttle body doesn't have them.

On all previous years the sync nipples have been smooth -- I assume yours were not barbed. On all previous years we just pull the rubber caps off without removing the wire clamps and when done just push them back on. Some of the more industrious owners have tied them all together to make them more resistant to loss should you want to take the clips off (but why would you <_< )

2. Does anyone know of a device to run tubes from the ports to a single access point or has someone got a good way to configure something to ease the TBS process?

Hmm, if you aren't worried about vacuum leaks you could go to an auto parts store and get vacuum hose, put it on each spigot, run it to a location where you can access the hoses without lifting the tank then cap the hoses. Use colored tape, or put one strip of tape for #1, two strips for #2, etc. to ID the cylinders. Heck they make numbered tape and numbered plastic clips intended for marking spark plug wires, that would work too. Now for the big BUT -- if you need to make adjustments the tank still has to come up or off.
Just some thoughts.

 

[Bike Effects]

I bought my FJR used. There were no clips on it when I bought it and I have done the TBS twice. I'm having no problems being "clipless".

BTW, I raise the front of my tank and secure it with a strap to the framework under the rear seat. Be carefull to remove all the appropriate push in rivets before your lift the tank.

 

[FJRocket]

2. Does anyone know of a device to run tubes from the ports to a single access point or has someone got a good way to configure something to ease the TBS process?

I think some farlkers have used all 4 ports junctioned to their Audiovox CCS-100 to suck up the servo. I don't know if anyone has used those lines to remotely do a TBS. I like that idea, though, and my try that when I set up the CCS-100 on my AE.

 

[motorgod]

I think some farlkers have used all 4 ports junctioned to their Audiovox CCS-100 to suck up the servo. I don't know if anyone has used those lines to remotely do a TBS. I like that idea, though, and my try that when I set up the CCS-100 on my AE.

I do not think there is any reason to use all the ports for the CC. I used the #3 port with a cannister. It seems to be working fine and has been for over 1.5 years.

 

[slapnpop]

I do not think there is any reason to use all the ports for the CC. I used the #3 port with a cannister. It seems to be working fine and has been for over 1.5 years.

The cruise works fine, but you're throwing you vaccum out of balance bewteen the cylinders using only one port. I assume you remove the cruise when you do the TBS, so that's not taken into account when you balance the levels.

 

[Yambone]

borrek, you don't have to remove the tank, basically just loosen the pivot bolt and lift it. No big deal. Check FJRtech.com for the entire procedure to lift and secure tank while working under there.

As for the circular clips around the 'rubber' covers over the inlets, just ignore them. I leave them in place, pluck off the covers with needlenose pliers, stuff them back on when done with TBS. The clips stay in place. Many people fuss with them, lose them. It doesn't seem to matter. I keep mine on there. I did replace the rubber covers after about 2 years of synchs and pulling them off, thought I mighta put a hole or two in there.

As for question #2, don't know about configuring a common tube for the synch, if that is what you are asking.

By the way, I bet people are hoping to see the underside of the engine heatshield, to see if there are special indents to compensate for engine components. If you can post a Pixture, you score extra bonus points with the Forum. I'll talk to Radman and see if I can get you off of FNG status by using some of his excess posts to your credit. B)

 

[borrec]

borrek, you don't have to remove the tank, basically just loosen the pivot bolt and lift it.  No big deal.  Check FJRtech.com for the entire procedure to lift and secure tank while working under there.
As for the circular clips around the 'rubber' covers over the inlets, just ignore them.  I leave them in place, pluck off the covers with needlenose pliers, stuff them back on when done with TBS.  The clips stay in place.  Many people fuss with them, lose them.  It doesn't seem to matter.  I keep mine on there. I did replace the rubber covers after about 2 years of synchs and pulling them off, thought I mighta put a hole or two in there.

As for question #2,  don't know about configuring a common tube for the synch, if that is what you are asking.

By the way, I bet people are hoping to see the underside of the engine heatshield, to see if there are special indents to compensate for engine components.  If you can post a Pixture, you score extra bonus points with the Forum.  I'll talk to Radman and see if I can get you off of FNG status by using some of his excess posts to your credit.  B)

Thanks Yambone,

I tried without removing the tank, but the number 2 port was next to impossible to get to with the tank on. So, it was easier to just take it off. I am looking to run lines from the ports to a bracket or manifold so that future TBSs can be done very quickly without raising the tank unless adjustments are required.

As you can see (https://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/am_inset3.aspx) the heatshield has a formed shape and small black plastic frame on the sides only. The side closest you (rear) in the picture has U shapes to slide over the throttle bodies. It has one quick release fastner you can see just to the right of the opening for the electrical lines. I was able to take this off with the tank raised and T-bar in place by sliding it to the rear.

Thanks again for your help.